This mountain is a mighty regular pyramid which is seen from the far (from the Gschnitztal the usual approach) as is gleeming red in the morning sun. It marks the eastern end of the Habicht mountain range which is terminated in the west by the Habicht. Several approaches towards the summit are possible which are not to difficult (scrambling up to UIAA I). This mountain is the standard summit reached from the Bremer Hütte.
Though this mountain is not that impressive even when compared which mountains in the surrounding it is especially fun to climb it. For you who likes to touch the rock it is a must when you are in that area.
When To Climb
Ridges should be free of snow, so climb from July until September
The normal route starts from the Bremer Hütte:
From Innsbruck in Austria you take the highway towards Brenner (italian/austrian border) or even better the country road (which cost no toll) until you reach Steinach (in Tyrol). A small valley to Gschnitz branches westwards. Go there until you reach a last parking possibility and park there (no parking pass required). Head towards the Laponisalm and from there follow the signed trails to the Bremer Hütte, which is reached within 3.5 h (2413 m).
The south ridge (UIAA II) can be reached similarily from the Nürnberger Hütte:
From Innsbruck in Austria you take the country road (no need for the highway) until you reach the exit Neustift (in Tyrol). A valley to Neustift branches westwards. About 1 km after Ranalt is a bus stop with a small parking range (no pass required). Take the signed trails to the Nürnberger Hütte, which is reached within 2.5 h (2280 m).
Normal route: East ridge (I): marked trail from the Bremer Hütte (2 h)
North ridge (I): From the Lauterer See Joch (3 h)
South ridge (II): From the Simming Jöchl (which is on th way from the Nürnberger to the Bremer Hütte
Guides and Maps
The recommended guide is the "Alpenvereinsführer" "Stubaier Alpen" by Walter Klier (Bergverlag Rother, 2002)
ISBN: 3-7633-1271-4 (Description)
A detailed map is available from the Alpenverein (Stubaier Alpen - Hochstubai - 31/1 1: 25000)
This map is available with or without routes for ski mountaineering (Description).
A good map is sold by freytag & berndt (Innsbruck, Stubai - Sellrain, Brenner 1:50000, WK241).
Mountain conditions are available from the huts in the vicinity.
Winter climbing: Propability of avalanges can been found here: Lawinenwarndienst - Österreich
Information of alpine weather is found here: Wetter
Huts in the vicinity
General Information on huts is given in Jo's Hüttenliste
Bremer Hütte: 2413 m, Tel.: +(A) 0664 / 4605831 (not open before June and after September)
Nürnberger Hütte: 2280m, Tel.: +(A) 05226 / 2492 (June, 15. - September)
No fees, no permissions. Highways in Italy and Austria can be used only when a fee is paid. An *additional* fee has to be paid for the Brenner-Autobahn from Innsbruck to Brenner).
The whole area is a "Naturschutzgebiet " (similar to a national park) which prohibits camping, possibly bivouaking is allowed (at least tolerated). Sleeping is of course possible in the surrounding huts.
Camping is possible in Volderau (some kilometers from Neustift in the Stubaital).
- Austrian Map online
Online digital maps of Austria (OEK 50, OEK 200 and OEK 500) by the BEV (Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen) - in German