Kanga Crag, 5.8-5.12a

Overview/Approach

Kanga Crag is the short wall just left of EEOR (East End of Rundle). The approach is the same as for the larger routes on EEOR, except you turn left under the wall where you will find a surprising collection of (mostly) single pitch routes on quite sharp (textured) limestone. Kanga is broken down in the Bow Valley Rock guidebook into “Kanga Left, Kanga Main and Kanga Right”. Kanga Crag is made up of sport, trad and aid routes. The main wall is by far the stiffest section with the right wall having the most modest collection of climbs. They started developing Kanga in 1983 and really never got going until the 90’s. Still, on any given summer weekend day, you can have the entire crag to yourself as the steep approach usually wards off the tourist climbers who will wait in line for popular routes at Grassi Lakes instead.

Kanga Crag faces mostly east relative to the sun it receives. The far left routes actually have some via ferrata iron in place to help you ascend to their base. Over 20 routes have been established on Kanga as of 2009 and their topos are published in Chris Perry’s Bow Valley Rock guide book.

Park as you would if descending to Grassi Lakes or climbing on the face of EEOR. Hike up the trail as you would for any route on EEOR, but take a left when you near the first cliff. You should see bolts almost immediately and this is Kanga Right. Kanga Left is quite a hike further along the base of the wall(s).

Route Description(s)

Routes are Listed Left to Right, South to North

Kanga Left

• Damien’s Island- 5.7/ 2 Pitches/


• Silver Surfer- 5.7/ 3 Pitches/


• Mysterioso- 5.10b/ 2 Pitches
Very enjoyable route and my first at Kanga Crag. Fully bolted and if you skip a clip here and there or long sling them you can combine the pitches on one belay and just make two raps. Use the via ferrata to scramble up to the upper tier rock ledge. The first 20m is easy 5.8 up a corner on good holds. The crux is making the transition left before you come to another belay/rappel ledge above. The 2nd pitch involves fairly stout balancing moves at the grade after you have run up an easy crack. Make two rappels with a 60m rope. Dow


• Cruela- 5.11a/


• Chief Chiniki Burgers- A2+/


• Brik Shiite Shak- 5.10d/


• Low Life- 5.11a/


• Riffraff- 5.10d/


Kanga Main

• Canadian Air- 5.12a/ 2 Pitches/


• Leave Your Hat On- 5.12a/ 2 Pitches/


• Canadian Cookie- 5.9+/


• California Dreaming- 5.10c/ 3 Pitches/


• Alberta Reality- 5.11b/ 3 Pitches/


• Roo’d Awakening- 5.11b/


• Turette’s Syndrome- 5.11a/


Kanga Right

• The Final Battle- A3+/


• Silent Partner- A0/


• Fowl Play- 5.10b/


• Superior Cackling Chickens- 5.10c/ 2 Pitches/


• Rocky and Me- 5.11a/ 2 Pitches/


• Rub Me Right- 5.10b/
A decent pitch, but on sharp limestone, don’t want to fall on lead. Looks deceivingly easy, but does involve a move or two at grade as your pull a small roof towards the end. Dow


• Toucha Toucha Me- 5.10a/ 2 Pitches/
Only 5.10a if you stay left on the arête. If in the groove or corner to the right, clipping the bolts out left, than more of a good beginner 5.8 lead. The 2nd pitch is real low angled, like 5.7 or so. You can climb both pitches with one belay and just rap twice or once with a 70m. Dow


• Pit Bull Terr- 5.9/

Essential Gear

This is a diverse area, aid, trad, sport….multi-pitch, single pitch….so take what you think you need depending on which routes you want to climb. You need a Bow Valley Rock guidebook for the topos (check out Tabvar.org ). This is not your typical cleaned crag. Most routes are rarely climbed due to the steep approach and distance from town. So a helmet is a pretty smart option. Some of the rock is bomber, but most of it is not.

External Links

Alpine Club of Canada

DowClimbing.Com

Environment Canada

Tabvar.Org

Images

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