Kautz Glacier Shortcut
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8-July-2006: shortcut to the Kautz Glacier at 11000' - following the regular route takes you all the way up to Camp Hazard at 11300' (11600 ?) and then descends a chute, all the while being exposed to the icefall and any rock / ice it sends down.
However at 11000' there is a shortcut from the Turtle. Some ropes of unknown origin had been slung on boulders nearby that people were using to rap off (approx. 20' drop). From there one could traverse across to the start of the route without being exposed to the Kautz Icefall for as long.