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Kocna direct south scramble
Route

Kocna direct south scramble

 
Kocna direct south scramble

Page Type: Route

Location: Kamiske Alpe (Alps of Kamnik), Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.34764°N / 14.53053°E

Object Title: Kocna direct south scramble

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 3

Difficulty: scramble and easy climbing (UIAA I-II)

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Sep 26, 2003 / Sep 27, 2009

Object ID: 158916

Hits: 2245 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Rating the Tour (by Hiking Standards)

 
A self-made map of Kocna and...
Kocna and its routes

The grading system for hiking and scrambling routes is here.

0. General. From 900m to 2540m, some ups and downs from the summit of Kokrska Kocna on Jezerska Kocna. Very steep scree and grassy slopes, intermitted with rocks (easy climbing). From the bivouac on there is a medium hard ferrata. Gear: Good shoes and poles.

1. Effort. Cca 1670m of altitude, 4 hours 30 minutes.

2. Power. 3 - medium.

3. Psyche. 3 - medium.

4. Orientation. 4 - hard (to find up to the bivouac).

Approach

Driving up the Kokra valley you turn right at the end of Kokra village (scattered houses) and drive up the narrow road to Suhadolnik farm (902m). You can park there freely, but we usually leave some small money in the box.

Route Description

From Suhadolnik farm you proceed eastwards by a marked path which soon cuts through woods and reaches the forrest road again on the beginning of Suhi dol meadow, 1000m.

While the marked path proceeds eastwards, we go from the beginning of Suhi dol meadow towards north. At first there is a forrest road, but after a few minutes we leave it and ascend directly through steep woods. Gaining heigth we tend towards left where we soon feel scree slopes from the mouth of a ravine. There is no path, no marks. Over the scree we approach the ravine, go by the ledge (easy climb) left over it and above it proceed by the bottom. The next short rock passage demands some easy climbing again, but above we soon find broad grassy slopes. We proceed over these slopes, seeking the least steep terrain and so reach the shoulder with the bivouac and the marked path. This way we certainly gain one hour in comparaison with the marked route below Grintovec.

From bivouac the marked path ascends northwards by scree, then crosses it in the west direction, enters easy rocks (secured with steel ropes and pegs) and in easy climb reaches the summit of Kokrska Kocna (2520m). The main summit of Jezerska Kocna is still some 300m towards the NE. The marked path (protected) goes by the ridge or little below it and reaches the main summit in good 15 minutes. From Suhadolnik farm cca 4 hours.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

The Bivouac in the Kocna...Kalski Greben and Bivouac...The wild ridge between...On the ridge of Kocna. Very...A self-made map of Kocna and...Kocna and the screes where...The wild and airy NW face of...