La Azufrera or North-East Route - Nevado Chachani m. 6057
La Azufrera, or Ruta Noreste, is the Normal route getting to Nevado Chachani m. 6075, a mighty stratified volcano showing four summits: North-West summit or main summit (m. 6075), North summit or “Pico de los Angeles” (m. 5852), South-East summit or Monte Trigo (m. 5820) and West summit or “La Horqueta” (m. 5484). Chachani is situated north of Arequipa, a large town in southern Perù, the second one in the country, from where the mountain is well seen close-up.
“La Azufrera” is the easiest way to climb Chachani and one of the easiest routes leading to a 6000 meters high peak. As a result of the poor precipitations in the Cordillera Volcanica, notwithstanding the altitude, this peak doesn’t show a wide permanent ice cap. In latest years the snow’s amount has exceptionally decreased and it decreases more during the dry season (from June to September), therefore in the beginning of that one, in early June and July, there are more probabilities to make an interesting and nice ascent, being easier to find snow and ice rather than in Fall.
From Arequipa m. 2400 head to North and follow the road directed to the “Canyon del Colca”, entering between El Misti and Chachani and leading to the “Pampa de Matacaballo” at 4200 m., 45 km. from Arequipa (2 hours), quite a desert land, with the exception of rare huge moss cushion, an autochthonous species named “yareta”. Here you must turning off to left from the main road; arranging a four-wheel-drive vehicle it’s possible to follow a track reaching a drop off point at 5100 m., when the Base Camp can be put down.
Being Nevado Chachani surrounded by roads making a circuit, from Arequipa there’s another way to reach the Chachani Base Camp, by driving towards West along a good highway and leaving the main road in Pampas Cañahuas, following on the right a road to the “Pampa de Matacaballo”.
The higher camp - called Azufrera Camp or Camp I – where is suitable to sleep before rising to the summit – is situated at about 5300 m.
LA AZUFRERA or NORTH-EAST ROUTE REPORT
Summit altitude: m. 6075
Climbing length: 800 m.
Starting point: Azufrera Camp or Camp I m. 5300
The climb is technically really easy; as a matter of fact two traverses on relatively steep terrain constitute the main difficulties to climb the summit. Yet it shouldn’t be underestimated, indeed sometimes a true difficult is represented by the altitude and altitude sickness (AMS), especially if the mountaineer wants to climb the peak too quickly.
From the Base Camp is suitable to rise at Azufrera Camp and spend one night here to get acclimatized.
After starting from Azufrera Camp, the route is rising in about 1 hour to Angel Col m. 5550, a cold saddle situated between Los Angeles (on the right) and Monte Trigo (on the left) summits, from where an incredible view of the town of Arequipa is appearing.
After the saddle normally we begin to find the first snow fields: crossing them and then soon traversing on the right side the base of Los Angeles Mountain, along steep snow’s slopes, frequently iced in early morning, we go towards Fatima, a minor summit on the way to Nevado Chachani main summit. Climbing the face of Fatima in a zig zag trail we reach the start of another traverse on Mount Fatima (“penitentes”). After the “penitentes” we can see the Chachani main summit. From here, the final climb towards the top is a very steep scree slope, which provides for a fast descent back to the first traverse. 4-5 hours and 3-4 for the descent
Essential GearDepending on the conditions (ice and snow’s presence) the standard route can requires crampons and an ice-axe; it’s highly recommended to bring those, because it’s not easy to know the mountain’s conditions in advance and climbing the two steep traverses on ice without the gear surely is not a good idea. The standard route does not require roping up, as there are no crevasses on Chachani. Complete high mountain’s equipment is necessary. This is a very cold place and temperatures can dramatically fall down during the night. In recent years, the amount of snow on Chachani has decreased remarkably, so during many months it may be little snow on the mountain. For example, in 2010, October and November, there was no snow at all, and the ascent could be made without crampons or ice axes. Climbers would need to check on the snow conditions before.
When to climb
Due to the dryness of the weather in Cordillera Volcanica (Arequipa Area), having very poor precipitations, concentrated between January and March, theoretically it’s possible to climb Chachani all round year....yes, it’s possible: during these months we can find more snow, but the weather may be changeable, with snowfalls and mists. I think the best months to climb Chachani are June and July (the local “invierno”, wintertime). During this season the weather is fine and stable and, moreover, there’s more snow on the mountain as regards to fall, so it’s easier to find the characteristic “penitentes”.