Hike from the parking lot at Poste d'accueil Mont du lac des Cygnes.
Follow the trail to the base of the cliff, about 20 minutes with moderate scrambling.
|Pitch 1 (White)||5.4 45m|
|Pitch 2 (Blue)||5.8 R 55m|
|Pitch 3 (Red)||5.5 R 40m|
|Pitch 2 (Yellow)||5.7 R 55m|
This cliff has a wide variety of climbing: cracks, slabs, dihedrals, run outs, and high exposure.
Although La Directe 5.8 R and it's numerous variations is among Quebec's classic climbs, the climb involves some tricky moves in a slab traverse demanding chirurgical protection, route finding, zigzagging rope management and high exposure. Thus, we offer it an R, 5.8, and class II grades. R involves that some falls might be spooky, not life threatening… especially when they are on slabs, with small protection. Nerveless, this is a climb you must do, getting airy and seeing the beauty of the National Park.
• Pitch 1 : 5.4
Scramble the huge holds, gain the exiting dihedral and top out to the first belay passing a well protected slab to belay A
• Pitch 2 : 5.8 R
From the belay A, place some small TCU's in chirurgical thin cracks, go strait for 5m, then traverse for 15m on near-inexistent pro to a friendly system of cracks. From there run-out strait for the slightly overhanging (see this image, from 2nd belay) crack that eats all your pro, crux here and ten follow this crack to the 2nd belay (B).
• Pitch 3 : 5.5 RTake the inviting crack 20m at your left and follow it to the top where it will disappear and form a friction run out (5.5) for 15m to the belay C.
5.8 Variation (Yellow Line)
From the belay A, go strait for 15m on poor protection till you clip the 2 bolts that protect a tricky slab crux and gain eventually some crack to belay B.
Rappel from belay A,B and C only with two 60metre ropes.
Wide range of Small TCU's, Friends...
Normal medium range TCU's, Friends and NUTS
2 X 3 inch Friends
2 X 60m Ropes
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