Lava Dome, 5.4-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Towers of Uncertainty was not included in Miramontes first two editions of his extensive guide for Joshua Tree National Park.  You are almost certain to have it to yourselves on most days (2018).  This area consists of a bunch of relatively small formations clustered close together not even a half mile off the dirt Geology Tour Road on the west side.  The ratio of sunny to shaded routes is approximately 1:1 making this a solid destination whether it is hot or cold.  The amount of grass on the desert floor in this area is kind of cool.  I expect it simply has seen less impact from humans over the years compared to much of the rest of the park.

Lava Dome is home to the best collection of moderates, both sunny and shaded, at the Towers of Uncertainty.  Of particular note are the bolted climbs, Mauna Loa, 5.9*, and Mauna Kea, 5.11a***, along with a trad climb, Kona, 5.10a*, on Lava Dome’s south face.  These routes climb well varnished rock below a block roof at the southeast end of the formation.  They share a fixed rap located on that summit roof.

Park at the small pull out on the right side of Geology Tour road just shy of three miles and just before a wash.  Hike a trail westward that in short order enters the jumbled landscape of Towers of Uncertainty.  Leave the main trail at the first formation on your left, Two Bolt Rock, and skirt its northwest corner. Continue southwest for Lava Dome which has a more defined prominence than most of the formations in this area. The north side, well shaded, has easier routes whilst the south side, full sun, has the before mentioned good moderate routes which would receive a lot more traffic and praise if closer to the campgrounds. 

Routes Listed Left to Right facing the South Wall

Standing Ovation- 50’-5.10a*/ Furthest left on the south facing wall of Lava Dome.  This wall offers a solid half day of moderate climbing and Standing Ovation is one of the players.  This is a complete trad lead with small to micro gear in great rock.  There is a cruxy punch in the middle with a face/edge climbing sequence at a bulge.  Small and large gear anchor.  The entire formation raps down Popo.  Sun all day.  Single from micro to #1 including wires or offset cams.  A #4 to assist with the anchor.  Dow

Mauna Loa- 50’-5.9*/ Fun and positive (for the grade) steep varnished sport route.  Five clips through 50’.  Good edges for the feet and fingers. Crux about half way up, but barely noticeable.  Trend up and right from there to the cold shut fixed rap above Mauna Kea.  Dow

Mauna Kea- 45’-5.11a***/ According to the local guide, this is one of the top three sport climbs at its grade in the park.  I concur.  It is sustained and thoughtful from bottom to top.  No real crux, just slight edges and off-balance moves.  Five bolts very well stitched together by cool movement.  5 draws.  The entire formation raps down Popo.  Sun all day.  Dow

Kona- 50’- 5.10a*/ Fun mixed climb utilizing the last bolt on Mauna Kea.  Start below the arête on the right side of the wall.   Up good cracks on the arête itself placing gear at will.  Traverse left up the obvious splitter finger crack with decent feet until one positive pull before clipping the last bolt on Mauna Kea.  Some more hero jug pulls up to the shared fixed rap on cold shuts.  One of the better routes at its grade in this area.  Dow

Popo- 45’- 5.7R/ Furthest right on the south facing wall of Lava Dome.  A blocky and fun arete at the grade.  Runout is not serious and is the final several meters to the lone rap on Lava Dome.   All gear, single from micro to #2.  Some loose rock, but this route has been climbed a bit, mostly locked small blocks.  Sun all day. Dow

Routes Listed Left to Right facing the North Wall

Nothing to Fear- 45’-5.6*/ A secure solo at the grade on great rock.  The far-left side of the north face of Lava Lamp.  Obvious crack from bottom to top.  To reach Popo’s rap, it is easier to traverse around left vs right, to the southeast corner.  Dow

But Fear Itself- 50’-5.8**/ Stellar lead for the grade on great rock.  The crux, from a solo perspective, is the middle bulge.  Just a second of insecurity, otherwise mostly just great jams.  Same beta as Lava Lamp to reach Popo’s fixed rap.  Single to #2.  Dow

Hot Flashes- 50’-5.11c**/

Lava Lamp- 50’-5.4**/ One of the best trad leads at its grade in the park if not the best  The north side of Lava Lamp has several solid solo opportunities on great rock.  These are great cracks from bottom to top for the budding trad climber to learn on as well.  The north faces at Towers of Uncertainty have some of the best varnished rock in the park.  This one is at the far-right side of the north face.  Climb up a crack, traverse left to a more significant one and continue to the top.  Down climb a meter or two off of a summit block to reach the exposed ledge which leads back east to Popo’s rap.  Dow