Demon Dome, 5.6-5.10c

Overview/Approach

Towers of Uncertainty was not included in Miramontes first two editions of his extensive guide for Joshua Tree National Park.  You are almost certain to have it to yourselves on most days (2018).  This area consists of a bunch of relatively small formations clustered close together not even a half mile off the dirt Geology Tour Road on the west side.  The ratio of sunny to shaded routes is approximately 1:1 making this a solid destination whether it is hot or cold.  The amount of grass on the desert floor in this area is kind of cool.  I expect it simply has seen less impact from humans over the years compared to the rest of the park.

Demon Dome is the largest formation of this group and is located dead center of the Towers of Uncertainty, between Two Bolt Rock, Lava Dome and Gravity Rock.   Demon Dome features more routes than any other formation in this area (10).  The best route on the formation is Greedy Goat, 5.10b**, a bolted route on the south side (southwest) of the formation.  And that is not saying much as it is relatively chossy for a recommended route.  Many of Demon's routes are below average climbs on the north side (northwest) of the formation, several of which seem contrived.  There is a rap anchor atop Greedy Goat and a shared rap anchor for those north facing routes.

Park at the small pull out on the right side of Geology Tour road just shy of three miles and just before a wash.  Hike a trail westward that in short order enters the jumbled landscape of Towers of Uncertainty.  As you pass Two Bolt Rock on your left, continue straight west on a faint trail for the much larger formation ahead.  Skirt Demon on its left side and tunnel through to an alcove to reach the base of Greedy Goat on the south side of the formation. 

South Side, Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face Them

Doin’ Some Damage- 35’-5.10c/

Greedy Goat- 60’-5.10b**/ Not sure about the double star recommendation in the local guide.  This is a fully bolted, but chossy, sport climb.  Cool alcove belay at the base (burrow up through a cave like feature).  Feels secure to reach the first bolt, but broke a hold right after.  Lean out right and layback up a shallow finger corner to more positive features.  Some fun stemming, but the rest of the route is cruiser compared to the physical move between the first and second bolt.  Fixed rap rings.  Dow

North Side, Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face Them  

Bee’s Warm- 100’-5.9/

Bee War- 100’-5.6/

Montclair- 80’-5.9*/ Typical Jtree runout start up slab.  Trend right up the varnished runnel slab before clipping the first bolt (buttonheads-2018).  Then up choss potato chip edges through the next bolt.  One more bolt (I placed no gear) making for three bolts through 80’.  Last 25’ is well below grade.  Trend up and left to the anchor.  Does not deserve the star (recommendation) in the local guide.  Fixed rap (slings and locker on bolts-2018).  Dow

Land, You Idiot, Land- 80’-5.9/

Cyanide Life- 80’-5.9*/ Pretty sure I led some 5.10+ bolted (4 bolts) line to the right of what is probably Cyanide that is not in the latest guide (2018) (nor is a pic of the wall).  Four bolts, no pins (as per the guide) and cruxy slab and micro edge moves.  It was a windy and cold late December day, so with numb fingers, who knows, maybe this pitch was 5.9 in some one’s head, but I doubt it, sustained and hard.  At the top, you have to angle way up and right to reach the fixed rap on Montclair.  Dow

Horizon- 70’-5.9/

Bizarre Limbo- 70’-5.9/

Hear Say- 70’-5.9/