Le Marchand de Sable : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

***LE MARCHAND DE SABLE

Summit altitude: mt. 2899
Difficulty: TD sup., F6a+
Equipment: partially equipped with bolts (slabs); friends useful (cracks)
Climbing length: 300 mt.
Exposure: SE
First ascent: M. Piola – G. Hopfgartner 19-20/07/1983
Starting point: Montenvers mt. 1909 (Rack-railway from Chamonix Mont Blanc)
Hut: Envers des Aiguilles m. 2523 CAF

A magnificent route – the classic one on the South East face of Tour Rouge – which offers various climbing ways (corners, slabs and cracks). Surely one of the finest rock climbing in Mont Blanc Group. Partially equipped (belays and some points along the route). The route is getting the sun at eight o’clock in full summer.

Getting There

Mer de Glace and Grandes Jorasses in the background

Mer de Glace and Grandes Jorasses - Photo Silvia Mazzani august 2000

From Envers des Aiguilles Hut m. 2523 take the iron stairways and rise along a gully leading to a saddle. From here go down to gain the Trelaporte Glacier; cross the glacier in its upper section to reach the bottom of Tour Rouge SE face. Starting point is below a steep slab situated between a corners’system on the right-hand side and two small roofs on the left. In last years the start had became very difficult, because of the glacier's retreat.

Le Marchand de Sable report

Cracks

Last but one pitch technical slab

The hanging belay

Le Marchand de Sable report (French Scale)

L1 – Climb the steep slab, then a flake. 6a
L2 - Head towards right below a small roof, then climb up along a corner. 5c
L3 - Climb another fine corner on the left and belay inside it. 5c
L4 – Straight up climbing a slab. 5b
L5 - An unforgettable pitch! Climb a corner, then go towards left to reach a steep crack. Climb the crack with superb climb. 6a
L6 - Another unforgettable pitch. A technical crack, then cross the slab towards left. After an hard move along the slab, reach a small overhang, then a corner leading to a belay below a small roof. 6a+
L7 – Another slab, then a new corner leading to a good stance on a terrace. 5c
L8 – Straight up climbing a flake, then up along some easier corners. 5b
L9 – An easy pitch along a corner leading to a small rocky saddle. 4b
L10 – Another superb pitch beginning with a technical slab; climb the slab with an hard movement (some bolts), then head towards right reaching a corner. 6a+
L11 – An easy pitch along a corner and a ridge leading to the top.4b

Descent: abseiling along the route.