Overview***Le Marchand de Sable
Summit altitude: mt. 2899
Difficulty: TD sup., F6a+
Equipment: partially equipped with bolts (slabs); friends useful (cracks)
Climbing length: 300 mt.
First ascent: M. Piola – G. Hopfgartner 19-20/07/1983
Starting point: Montenvers mt. 1909 (Rack-railway from Chamonix Mont Blanc)
Hut: Envers des Aiguilles m. 2523 CAF
A magnificent route – the classic one on the South East face of Tour Rouge – which offers various climbing ways (corners, slabs and cracks). Homogeneous and sustained, it's surely a brilliant climb with some great pitches. Definitely one of the most deserving routes in the area. Partially equipped (belays and some points along the route). The route is getting the sun at eight o’clock in full summer.
From Envers des Aiguilles Hut m. 2523 take the iron stairways and rise to the right along a gully leading to a notch behind the shelter. From here go down to gain the Trelaporte Glacier; cross the glacier in its upper section near the walls - to avoid the crevassed area below - and reach the lower point of Tour Rouge SE face. Starting point is below a steep slab situated between a corners’system on the left-hand side and two small roofs on the right. In last years the start had became very difficult, because of the glacier's retreat.
Le Marchand de Sable report
Le Marchand de Sable report (French Scale)
L1 – Climb the steep slab, then a flake. 6a
L2 - Head towards right below a small roof, then climb up along a corner. 5c
L3 - Climb another fine corner on the left and belay inside it. 5c
L4 – Straight up climbing a slab. 5b
L5 - An unforgettable pitch! Climb a corner, then go towards left to reach a steep crack. Climb the crack with superb climb. 6a
L6 - Another unforgettable pitch. A technical crack, then cross the slab towards left. After an hard move along the slab, reach a small overhang, then a corner leading to a belay below a small roof. 6a+
L7 – Another slab, then a new corner leading to a good stance on a terrace. 5c
L8 – Straight up climbing a flake, then up along some easier corners. 5b
L9 – An easy pitch along a corner leading to a small rocky saddle. 4b
L10 – Another superb pitch beginning with a technical slab; climb the slab with an hard movement (some bolts), then head towards right reaching a corner. 6a+
L11 – An easy pitch along a corner and a ridge leading to the top.4b
Descent: abseiling the same route. Doppie su Dracula
Essential Gear and Climbing GradesRope 2 x 50, helmet, various sizes of friends and excentrics, ten express, ice-axe and crampons needed for the approach along the glacier.
|Rock Climbing Rating Systems|
Refuge Envers des Aiguilles m 2523 C.A.F. (French Alpine Club)
Situation: French side of Mont Blanc Group - Back of Aiguilles de Chamonix
Open: from June 13th to September 13th
Size: 57 persons
Winter-shelter: 12 persons
Guardian: Giusto Evelyne
Refuge's phone: 06.76.52.61.17 Refuge CAF "Envers des Aiguilles"
Red TapeThere are not particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.
When to climbBest season goes from middle June to middle September.
Guidebooks and maps
"Mont Blanc & the Aiguilles Rouges" - selected climbs - in English