Lead Us Not Into Temptation

Overview

An excellent 5.9 on the 'backside' of North Astrodome, this route is on the southwest face, and is the neighbor route to Let Your Freak Flag Fly. See the main page for North Astrodome where the route is mentioned. This route is better than average as it stays interesting and at the grade for almost the entire route.

Getting There

There are two approaches to North Astrodome. One starts at the lake at Barker Dam. The other goes to the very end of the road parking area, past Uncle Willie's HealthFood Store, and then right up a long and scenic wash. To approach this and other climbs on the Southwest face of North Astro, you will want to cross the lake at Barker Dam. It's a nasty fight with boulders and yucca if you take the Uncle Willies approach.

Park at the main Barker Dam nature trail parking lot with pavement, room for RV's, bathroom, etc. Follow the signed nature trail to Barker Dam until reaching the lakebed which may or may not have water in it. Cross the lake, or go around if water filled. Once across\around the Lake, head up the main wash on use trails. Usually it's easiest to stay as close to the bottom of the wash as possible, with a couple small detours around vegetation and boulders. Keep hiking until you can see you are almost past South Astrodome. There is an easy 3rd class ramp system that diagonals up the rock in front of South Astro, and this leads to a little forested cove at the base of North Astro. If you are doing anything harder than 3rd class slab moves you are off route! It's easier to go past it and then see the ramps after, as large boulders block the view on the approach. But if you follow the wash to its end you have gone too far.

Route Description

This six bolt route begins above a steep slab and below a seam and several inches wide left facing dihedral. A good option is to scramble up to the slab and belay directly below the seam.

Follow the seam\open book for as far as it goes with fun balancy moves. After the seam runs out, a long series of at-the-grade moves continue for the next 3 bolts. Things gradually get easier, the top is a bit run-out as the end of the route is a jugfest.

Essential Gear

6 quickdraws
Anchor setup
double rope (a 70 might be doable if you are prepared to downclimb from the slabby section at the base.)

Images

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