Lucky Ledges-- 5.6, 2-3 Pitches

Overview

This is a 2-pitch route that can be 3 pitches if you want to top out on the formation.

If you've managed to obtain a copy of the old guidebook, you might be happy to know that the first bolt is no longer 30' off the ground. On the other hand, it's still a little spicy getting to it. This is an old-school crag, and on top of that, rock quality is not inspirational.

Getting There

From the left end of the parking lot, hike up, trending left. There's a good chance you'll end up at some low-angle slabs. If that happens, work your way down to the base.

Route Description

P1, 5.6-- Follow bolts and questionable rock to a 2-bolt anchor. This is old-school 5.6 that would probably be 5.7 or 5.8 at many modern sport crags.

P2, 5.4-- Again, follow bolts on rock that feels questionable to a 2-bolt anchor.

At this point, you intersect the route called The Corner. You can rap back down, or you can add a 3rd pitch to top out and walk off. This final pitch offers a few options, and a gear anchor will be necessary.

Essential Gear

Half a dozen quickdraws, gear for 2-bolt anchors, and trad gear for topping out and making an anchor.