Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon: | 44.81299°N / 121.09598°W |
County: | Jefferson |
Activities: | Trad Climbing |
Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
For a variety of reasons, related both to aspect and geology, this area has the cleanest columns at Trout Creek. Most of the 5.10-12 classics at the crag can be found here, everything from uberclassic hand cracks to strenuous stem boxes to technically demanding finger cracks. The sun tends to scorch the rock clean, so rock shoes will stick to just about anywhere on the highly textured rock; the flip side of that is that tape gloves are a must if you want to have skin on your hands by the end of the day. Moving around at this part of the crag can be a little difficult, just getting from one route to another directly adjacent can involve class 3-4 scrambling on large fallen pillars. As Wenger’s guidebook notes, this may not be the best crag for your dog / small children.
Follow the directions on the main Trout Creek page, trail terminated just below the right side of the North End and the Main Wall can be reached by traversing either below the wall or below the boulders.
Note: These are only the routes I have climbed (led, followed, or TR), and are not representative of the total variety Also Note: contrary to the listings in Jeff Wenger’s guidebook, I have listed these from left to right. Electric Chair - 5.9 Climb it to top-rope the 5.10 off-widths next to it. The double crack takes a variety of jams, feels sustained if you are just coming from the North End. Fissuremen - 5.10- One of the easier 5.10s at the crag. Chimney rest stances are possible, making the climb feel more secure than most at the grade. If you fall you are doing it wrong. Final move is the highlight of the route.