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Malans Waterfall: II, WI5 - The first pitch is the longest on the route and goes up 150 feet to a ledge on the right side of the falls. You can climb Malans Waterfall in two long pitches or four shorter pitches.
The second pitch goes around a corner and traverses to the left. The third pitch is the crux of the route and climbs up a vertical column of ice. You can combine pitches two to four together if you like. The last pitch, not seen in the photo, goes up from an alcove over a bulge for 50 feet to a gully and to the top of the waterfall. Be careful of falling ice in this section of the route
It is only recommended that you climb the upper pitches of the route when the ice is solid and continuous because the crux has collapsed on occasion. Descent can be made by rappelling down the route with two ropes or hiking around the east side down a gully and back to the base of the waterfall