Get to Holden as described on main page. Use Holden lake trail to arrive at lake. Stay on E .side of lake and climb (sometimes steeply) up to Holden pass at the head of the lake through some brushy areas and rocky slope. This is a good camp or bivy spot. In dry years water may not be available, otherwise use small ponds/snow as your water source.
Route DescriptionFrom the pass a use trail leads up towards the ridge to the N. and W. after a couple hundred vertical feet traverse out on S. slope of ridge to gain the northern margin of the glacier. Traverse is shown in picture. Usually it is best to stay on northern end of glacier until arriving at high glacier bench below main face of peak. Then traverse under face to snow thumb that leads onto the rock. Cross bershrund where feasable and ascend snow thumb to rock gully on right margin. Climb up and stay right. Climb several hundred feet and traverse over into next gully left. Climb this to obvious notch in NE ridge. Turn S. and climb and traverse to highest point.
Essential GearBasic glacier travel gear, I did not find it nessesary to rappel down the rock gullies, you may want a few slings if you wish to rappel.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
This page was given to Redwic to update on July 13, 2011.