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|Josh Lewis||Nice Gallery|
|So I see you liked the "My Panorama" idea after all! You have a nice collection here. Thanks for creating this album.|
Cheers Josh Lewis.
|Posted Feb 13, 2011 8:59 pm|
|Matt Lemke||Re: Nice Gallery|
|Thanks...BTW I really like your photo of the day. It's a great sunset that you were fortunate to see.|
|Posted Feb 13, 2011 9:01 pm|
|lcarreau||Hey Matt ...|
|Your photos are extremely eye-catching, and I love the way the|
'reds' stand out in your images.
Don't want you to give out your secrets, but what kind of camera
are you using, and is there a way to make the colours stand out
without using too much saturation, like I've been guilty of ???
|Posted Feb 13, 2011 9:21 pm|
|Matt Lemke||Re: Hey Matt ...|
|I am using a Canon 30d SLR|
It's a slightly older version of Canon's series but it really does a great job. I also try to use good sharp lenses. I have been guilty in the near past of adding too much saturation to photos and panoramas I had taken with a point and shoot. If you only have a point and shoot camera, make sure your "vivid" (or similar)setting is on and when you upload your photos to the computer, be sure you use a decent editing software. Microsoft Photo manager or something like that doesn't cut it. I use Photoshop Elements and it does pretty good. Instead of just bumping saturation you may find it better to adjust exposures and/or the brightness of the highlights and shadows. The best thing you can do however is to get the exposure right upon taking the photo (usually would require an SLR). A dark photo loses details and color but tends to make bright skies look good where a lighter photo will make your landscape look great with a washed out sky. Balancing these two things can be hard and can differ depending on the weather; time of day etc. Many of my photos are HDR photos which brings out color and details over more exposure ranges. Another things I always have on my lenses is a polarizing filter which enhances colors upon taking the photo and reduces the need for color correction on the computer.
I can give you a little more detailed info if I know what you use for a camera and editing software.
|Posted Feb 13, 2011 9:38 pm|
|lcarreau||Re: Hey Matt ...|
|I have been using a Canon (9.0 m.p.) PowerShot SX110 IS with the|
10x optical zoom.
It's very frustrating, because I can never get the colours quite
right. That's why I've been longing for cloudy days and afternoons where I can capture the most shadows.
Even when I get the contrast right, the sky never seems to be the correct colour. When I try to correct the sky in Windows Picasa, I always end up adding to much saturation to the foreground.
Is there an adjustment for exposures on "point & shoots?"
I live in central Arizona, where we receive 330 days of sunshine
per year. THANKS for the valuable information!
|Posted Feb 13, 2011 10:09 pm|
|Matt Lemke||Re: Hey Matt ...|
|Yes...with Canon Point and Shoots there is a way to change the exposure level. Make sure your camera dial is set to Manual. This is denoted with the "M"|
Then pushing the function set button you will see a range of things like ISO, Quality and size of the photos etc.
You will also notice a number that may be zero or positive or negative. use this function to lighten or darken the photo you wish to take (negative numbers darken it). I imaging the range would be from -2 to +2 in 1/3 stop increments. This isn't exactly the same thing as what you have on SLR's but it works. You can play around with the exposures. This menu is also where you can turn the Vivid setting on.
Another important thing to do is to exposure your photo to the sky. This is done by holding the shutter button down halfway and selecting the exposure from a place not necessarily at the center of your photo and moving the camera while still holding the button halfway down to the spot you want to take the photo.
Have you ever done that? It really makes the skies work out great which reduces the editing you have to do on the skies.
General rule of thumb I always use is whenever I take a photo I expose to the sky so I never have to edit it (except for noise reduction) and any editing I do I do strictly to the landscape.
As a guide, on bright days in Utah, when I used my Canon P&S, I kept the exposure at about -(1/3) or -(2/3) and this made the colors in the sky look good.
From there all I had to do was select the landscape and add brightness and/or correct the shadows (which are almost always the landscapes). I also reduce noise to every photo.
Hope this helps
|Posted Feb 13, 2011 10:26 pm|
|Josh Lewis||Re: Hey Matt ...|
|Ha ha, good old picasa program. It's my personal favorite. I could use photoshop (I only use photo shop to take out noise every now and then) but like to keep things simple when it comes to editing, now photography is a different story.|
|Posted Feb 14, 2011 6:57 pm|
|lcarreau||Re: Hey Josh ...|
|I keep hearing "voices" that SP is NOT supposed to be a|
photography site, but to me those are just voices in the wind.
Matt, I believe I know what you're talking about, as far as the
exposures go ... I need some time to play around with my camera.
TIME is a very precious commodity here on the Big SP !!!
|Posted Feb 14, 2011 8:14 pm|
|Josh Lewis||Re: Hey Josh ...|
|Don't listen to those voices I say. I know SP is mostly about information, but I have to admit the gallery system is very professional. What other site in the world has a attachment system with albums and route pages like SP? When it comes to software and website making I can duplicate summitpost (if I wanted to) to almost an exact copy but the attachment system would be very hard to do. So with that in mind, if this happens to be the best site for mountain photos, why not have this also a photography site for mountains pictures?|
|Posted Feb 14, 2011 10:25 pm|
|Matt Lemke||Re: Hey Josh ...|
|I agree 100 percent|
|Posted Feb 15, 2011 5:03 pm|