Matthes Crest Climber's Log

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Deb

Deb - Jun 20, 2018 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2018

S-N Traverse  Sucess!

Stellar day with Kevin and Big Al successfully traversing the crest before the sun set. Simul climbed 90% of the route, which was easier than expected having 3 on a rope. I drew the final pitch to the summit and found it a bit more stout than 5.7; pretty pumpy for a little person but such a thrill. Many parties on route, many skeeters down below. No drama, other than hiking out in the dark; totally worth it!

Vertigo soul

Vertigo soul - Aug 4, 2017 7:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2015

S to N Traverse  Sucess!

Super fun route and had it all to ourselves for most of the day! Some smoke from fires took some of the view away, but still great views and location!

fatdad

fatdad - Sep 17, 2016 11:46 pm

North to south traverse  Sucess!

Fun, adventurous climbing to a terrific summit. Outstanding climb in every way.

secander

secander - Aug 30, 2016 11:10 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2016

S-N Traverse to North Summit  Sucess!

Did the standard South to North Traverse to the North Summit and then rappelled.

apachedino

apachedino - Jul 13, 2015 2:28 pm Date Climbed: Oct 26, 2015

S-N  Sucess!

Amazing!

Bill562

Bill562 - Sep 1, 2014 4:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2014

South to North  Sucess!

Team of 5, simul climbed/soloed to the base of North summit, led up one pitch, took a long time to get everyone to the top, skipped the South summit. Excellent rock.

bedellympian

bedellympian - Jun 27, 2014 7:53 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2014

South to North solo  Sucess!

Done as the middle leg of the Tenaya-Matthes-Cathedral Linkup. Had two knobs pop on the first couple pitches. The down climbs off the summits are not that bad and over-rated (I'd say 5.5/5.6 but people suck at down climbing usually). The crux is awesome but definitely sustained and very different from the rest of the route. I down climbed off west after the North Summit but don't recommend this as everything gets more chossy off the ridge crest. Rap or finish the ridge to the end.

caysedave

caysedave - Nov 4, 2013 3:38 am Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2009

South to North  Sucess!

A few bouldery moves and scrambling. Need to repeat.

mrchad9

mrchad9 - Sep 30, 2013 7:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2013

South to North  Sucess!

Absolutely superb climb along the ridge with Vitaliy... really enjoyed it and glad to get this one in as the weather nearly did not cooperate.

One of my favorites for sure.

Donno

Donno - Aug 13, 2013 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2004

Traverse from S  Sucess!

Traversed to summit & rappelled. With Gene. 10 hours r/t from Echo Lake.

westhegimp

westhegimp - Aug 11, 2013 7:20 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010

South to North full traverse  Sucess!

With Nick Grams. Fourth classed it. :)

lizklevy

lizklevy - Sep 17, 2012 1:35 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2012

North Summit  Sucess!

Great day! I can't wait to come back and do the full traverse!

muajee

muajee - Sep 17, 2012 5:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2011

South - North Full Traverse  Sucess!

One of the happiest moments/days in my life!!!!! *^_^*

Super awesome; love the view & LOVE the "Wave"!!!!! If you're doing this, you gotta do the entire traverse. The section after the North Summit is where the fun begins.

dkangas - Sep 16, 2012 11:12 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2012

South to north summit  Sucess!

With Cliff M. Made the approach via Cathedral Pass in 2 hrs. First pitches were fun but cold! Traverse is spectacular--one of the best! Followed on the crack summit pitch and still found it challenging. If rapping from the summit with a 60m, follow a straight vertical line to the intermediate rap station, which can't be seen from above. I was seduced by a series of right trending ledges which looked promising until I ended up 15 feet short and had to down-climb a gritty and unpleasant drop to safety.

ElGreco

ElGreco - Sep 11, 2012 7:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2012

S to N  Sucess!

A true classic! Get on it! Enjoyed the part to the summit much more than what followed to the "wave".

Seth Maciejowski

Seth Maciejowski - Aug 3, 2012 12:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2012

South To North  Sucess!

Long day in the mountains with a lot of exposure. Great route! 5.7 crack up to North Summit a hard pull after a lot of scrambling.

Mooner

Mooner - Jul 24, 2012 9:39 am

Up I Go

7/21/12 Climbed S to N roped with Matt J.

ChuckO

ChuckO - Jul 17, 2012 3:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2011

S to N  Sucess!

Climbed with Paul F. Great day, wonderful exposure. Did not do North summit or northern part of traverse (a bit stout for us at that moment!). Nothing better than Toulumne!!!

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Sep 26, 2011 4:23 pm Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2011

N to S  Sucess!

Great day out. Simul climbed in my approach shoes. Amazing views, the wave is great, so is the knife edge later in the ridge.

bc44caesar

bc44caesar - Aug 28, 2011 1:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2011

South to North Traverse  Sucess!

Good route, went C2C in 9.5 hrs. Led two pitches to the crest (better to just solo really, it's all easy), unroped and traversed to the base of the north summit, led one pitch up a fairly burly (though easy) wide crack, with a finger crack to lieback off of inside, to the top. Simuled the rest of the ridge - nothing harder than 5.6 or so, although it may feel harder because all the crux moves are downclimbing. 2.25 hrs to the start, around 5 hrs for the full traverse, then about 2.25 back to the car. Do it!

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