ApproachThis route starts at McHenrys Notch, which is the dent in the Continental Divide that separates Powell Peak from McHenrys Peak. The divide runs in the west-east direction at this point. The notch therefore has north and south sides. It can be reached in two ways. In both cases, the approach to the notch is the hardest part of the route.
- Downclimbing from the top of McHenrys Peak. (Class 4; see this page.)
- Ascend the couloir to the north of the notch. This is a steep snow/ice route that Gillett rates II AI 2. Access to the couloir is from Lake Solitude. See the Arrowhead page for how to get there.
Route DescriptionFrom the notch follow ledges to the left (south) of the cliff that falls from Powell Peak's short east ridge. Do not get as far left as to reach the rubble-filled gully that goes down towards Lake Powell. Gain about 300 ft of elevation to reach the summit plateau.
If traversing from Powell Peak to McHenrys Peak, keep to the left (north) of the aforementioned gully, without staying too high on the ridge, which cliffs out in sometimes spectacular ways.