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Mendel Couloir ( right couloir )
Route

Mendel Couloir ( right couloir )

 
Mendel Couloir ( right couloir )

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.17500°N / 118.68°W

Object Title: Mendel Couloir ( right couloir )

Route Type: Technical Ice and Rock

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: III, 5.6, AI2, WI3

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Craig Peer

Created/Edited: Sep 24, 2002 / Oct 14, 2002

Object ID: 157000

Hits: 8100 

Page Score: 69.88%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


The usual approach is the Lamarck Col cross country trail. See the R. J. Secor guide for a detailed description.

Route Description


The Mendel Couloir starts from the glacier below the North Face. Cross the bershrund, the left side maybe the easiest, and climb the snow / ice slope, belaying from rocks where possible. Enter the right hand couloir and follow it to the top. If climbing with more than 2 climbers total, be extremely cautious of climber caused rock and ice fall. From the top of the couloir, either follow the Northwest Ridge ( 5.6 ) or rappel into the scree gully to the west and follow the Southwest Central Chute to the summit ( class 4 ).

Essential Gear


Ice hammer and axe, crampons, ice screws, and medium rack including cams. A few pitons ( blades, baby angles ) are always good insurance.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

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poorboy44Route Comment

poorboy44

Hasn't voted

I feel obliged to mention something about the descent. We tried to follow the E Ridge to the Mendel/Darwin col. This is not the correct way to go. We ended up having to do some rappels to get down off the E Ridge to the Darwin Glacier. I think the correct way to go is to head down off the ridge via some 3rd class well before the col. Maybe someone who got the descent right can offer some specifics?
Posted Sep 14, 2005 12:20 am

Viewing: 1-1 of 1    

Images

forjan leading on the right Mendel couloir:  August 26, 2006upper portion was very loose...anyone got time to do the...Mount Mendels North FaceRight Mendel couloir:  August 26, 2006Topping out on the right Mendel couloirRight Mendel couloir:  August 26, 2006