Palisades > Middle Palisade > Climber's LogMiddle Palisade Climber's Log
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| virginiapine | Clyde Route  Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2006 | |
| Climbed the Clyde Rt. on the E. Face: first came 2 MI2 (e.g., feel like 5.6) pitches directly below the central chute (e.g., just N of the rib dividing the glacier) going around the right end of the glacier's high pt. to get onto the bergshrund, then traversed left and up into the steambed cut into the chute. Fun technical work - crampons, axes, & good rock pro. We tried the snow field above but it was shallow with ice beneath so climbed alongside and onto the rib on the left, thus avoiding the 3 avalanches that cut loose from the snowfield later in the morning. After an airy step around the tower on top, we moved up and left to the next rib. Climbing this became progressively harder up to the summit, where at 1:20PM we discovered it was storming over on Winchell/Agassiz. We hustled down and luckily had no lightning, just graupel after we found the easy part of normal route when halfway down (2nd chute left of the main chute when facing the pk.). Altogether an interesting climb in these conditions (2006 is a big snow year in the Sierras). | |
| Posted Jul 5, 2006 9:37 pm | ||
| Luciano136 | NE face Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006 | |
| Still LOTS of snow left. Didn't have a great weekend and fatigue+a huge gap between the glacier and the face, made me turn around. More luck next time I guess. | |
| Posted Jul 4, 2006 9:34 pm | ||
| Mountain Jim | Northeast Face Date Climbed: Aug 20, 1980 | |
| Easier climb than it looks on the approach ... great summit !!! | |
| Posted Mar 14, 2006 6:51 pm | ||
| graham | Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Aug-28-05 | |
| Beautiful day hike/climb. The entrance traverse from the top of the glacier was surprisingly easy | |
| Posted Nov 25, 2005 2:53 pm | ||
| kevin trieu | Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: October 23 2005 | |
| Went up some class 4 (with ice & snow) at the end of the west glacier that took me 3 hours then tranverse back to the class 3 chute described by Bob Burb. Summited around 2pm with Patrick Bauman Nobody else was on the mountain except two Russian dudes, Igor & Vladamir I think. It was a beautiful cloudless day. | |
| Posted Oct 24, 2005 6:29 pm | ||
| tdoughty | Route Climbed: NE Face | |
| With Don Huntress | |
| Posted Oct 16, 2005 1:45 pm | ||
| tpdwr | Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: August 6, 1988 | |
| Perfect day for a great Peak. A little trouble on the way down finding the cross over. | |
| Posted Sep 27, 2005 6:49 pm | ||
| Bob Burd | Route Climbed: Traverse from Disappointment / NE Face (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005 | |
| Done with Matthew as part of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Not a bad route, but bears little resemblance to Secor's route drawing. Trip Report | |
| Posted Sep 20, 2005 4:35 pm | ||
| kovarpa | Route Climbed: Northeast Face variation Date Climbed: September 10, 2005 | |
| I soloed this Class 4-5 route pretty much by accident, by traversing too much too the right when attempting NE face. Considerable exposure and quite a bit of summit crest traverse to get to the summit proper... I downclimbed the NE face on the descent, but then didn't traverse back to my starting point and ended up downclimbing to the highest point of the Clyde glacier . Obviously, I am "route-finding challenged". Very fun, very high winds, pretty cold. | |
| Posted Sep 12, 2005 11:28 pm | ||
| sierramtngoat | Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: August 3, 2003 | |
| Climbed with Maria. I thought it the route was fun and relatively clean class 3, but some disagree. Don't be fooled by the bogus ducks when you scramble onto the moraine above finger lake. Climb up half way and traverse around to the left and get on the SW facing ramp that heads all the way up the north middle palisade glacier. | |
| Posted Sep 12, 2005 4:37 am | ||
| physics | Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: September 10, 2005 | |
| climbed with uwjennie from summitpost; good beta made for a good climb. It was very windy at the summit. The hardest part of the climb was coming off the glacier and onto the rock (hard class 4 to maybe mid class 5 moves); this can be by-passed though by climbing the rock band to the south. Will return to this peak later ... | |
| Posted Sep 12, 2005 1:54 am | ||
| granite4brains | Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 09/10/05 | |
| Great peak. Perfect way to wrap up a summer of peak bagging. I'd have to agree with some others that it was a little looser than I was expecting. I didn't notice it at all going up, but coming down was a little slower as a result. | |
| Posted Sep 11, 2005 8:37 pm | ||
| uwjennie | Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Sept. 10, 2005 | |
| Great trip with Kurt H. (aka physics) from SP. Reached the summit from the trailhead after leaving overnight gear at Finger Lake on Saturday. Hiked out Sunday for an early return home. | |
| Posted Sep 11, 2005 8:28 pm | ||
| Guilty | Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 08-28-05 | |
| Fourth ascent of this mountain and 68th 14'er. Very beautiful at Brainard and Finger lakes. Scouting a traverse route to Norman Clyde Peak with-out a rope. Hmm! Has anyone did this w/o rope? | |
| Posted Aug 31, 2005 11:28 pm | ||
| Guilty | Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 07-19-99 | |
| Saw many rocks rolling down the face. Very exciting. | |
| Posted Aug 29, 2005 4:14 pm | ||
| BranchWhitney | Route Climbed: NE face Date Climbed: 8/22/2005 | |
| Great climb and great weather. Ice ax and crampons came in handy. | ||
| Posted Aug 26, 2005 1:00 am | ||
| Matthew Holliman | Route Climbed: Traverse from Disappointment Peak / NE Face (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005 | |
| The traverse from Disappointment was much easier than I'd expected, and the NE Face was straightforward as well (although much looser than I'd expected given the popularity of the route). Snow almost the whole way down to Finger Lake meant we were treated to a luxurious and pretty expedient return, 2hr45 back to the car from the summit. The traverse from Disappointment took a couple of hours, and involved several ups and downs via the various chutes and aretes that separate the two peaks, but as I recall, only a couple of places were class 4. | |
| Posted Aug 17, 2005 1:57 pm | ||
| Completebum | Route Climbed: NE Face via cl. 4 chimney Date Climbed: July 30, 2005 | |
| Day hiked with Eric. Opted to try the chimney variation to avoid having to walk over the glacier, it was the best climbing on the route. Once in the chute it was easy cl.3 all the way to the top. Great view for the top and excellent weather. | |
| Posted Aug 1, 2005 12:10 pm | ||
| thebeave7 | Route Climbed: NE Chute via Class 4 chimney Date Climbed: 07/30/05 | |
| Made good time on the approach. There is a nice use trail from Brainard Lake up to Finger Lake that we found by accident. From there the moraine was mostly snow free with a few low angle patches. A short section of snow still covers the entrance to Secors Chute and can be done without an axe. The chimney was fun, solid class 4 on a beautiful summit day. Just over 12 hours car to summit and back. Eric | |
| Posted Aug 1, 2005 3:21 am | ||
| orandall | Route Climbed: NE Face via Secor's chute Date Climbed: July 23 2005 | |
| A last-minute decision to head up to the Sierras to get 14er #6. Lots of fun, easy and sustained class 3 climbing with some loose rock thrown in too. The summit block was great, significant exposure but an awesome view of the palisades. No snow until the MP/NCP glaciers, but the top of the morraine was definitely covered more than what appears to be normal for this time of year. No crampons needed to get to the ledge leading into Secor's chute, but the last 30 feet there would have been really, really rough without an ax. Mosquitoes were in FULL FORCE from Willow Lake all the way up until the glaciers. Fortunately there was enough hail on the way back to keep them away for an hour or two. 17 hours from trailhead and back at a relaxed pace with quite a few breaks. | |
| Posted Jul 25, 2005 11:12 am | ||
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