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Middle Palisade Climber's Log

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Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: Traverse from Disappointment Peak / NE Face (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

The traverse from Disappointment was much easier than I'd expected, and the NE Face was straightforward as well (although much looser than I'd expected given the popularity of the route). Snow almost the whole way down to Finger Lake meant we were treated to a luxurious and pretty expedient return, 2hr45 back to the car from the summit.



The traverse from Disappointment took a couple of hours, and involved several ups and downs via the various chutes and aretes that separate the two peaks, but as I recall, only a couple of places were class 4.
Posted Aug 17, 2005 1:57 pm

CompletebumRoute Climbed: NE Face via cl. 4 chimney Date Climbed: July 30, 2005  Sucess!

Completebum

Day hiked with Eric. Opted to try the chimney variation to avoid having to walk over the glacier, it was the best climbing on the route. Once in the chute it was easy cl.3 all the way to the top. Great view for the top and excellent weather.
Posted Aug 1, 2005 12:10 pm

thebeave7Route Climbed: NE Chute via Class 4 chimney Date Climbed: 07/30/05  Sucess!

thebeave7

Made good time on the approach. There is a nice use trail from Brainard Lake up to Finger Lake that we found by accident. From there the moraine was mostly snow free with a few low angle patches. A short section of snow still covers the entrance to Secors Chute and can be done without an axe. The chimney was fun, solid class 4 on a beautiful summit day. Just over 12 hours car to summit and back.

Eric
Posted Aug 1, 2005 3:21 am

orandallRoute Climbed: NE Face via Secor's chute Date Climbed: July 23 2005  Sucess!

orandall

A last-minute decision to head up to the Sierras to get 14er #6. Lots of fun, easy and sustained class 3 climbing with some loose rock thrown in too. The summit block was great, significant exposure but an awesome view of the palisades. No snow until the MP/NCP glaciers, but the top of the morraine was definitely covered more than what appears to be normal for this time of year. No crampons needed to get to the ledge leading into Secor's chute, but the last 30 feet there would have been really, really rough without an ax. Mosquitoes were in FULL FORCE from Willow Lake all the way up until the glaciers. Fortunately there was enough hail on the way back to keep them away for an hour or two. 17 hours from trailhead and back at a relaxed pace with quite a few breaks.
Posted Jul 25, 2005 11:12 am

Brian KaletRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: July 17, 2005  Sucess!

Brian Kalet

Approached Secor's Chute without crampons; tricky, but doable.
Posted Jul 18, 2005 12:35 pm

CodyRoute Climbed: NE face Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!

Cody

My first attempt and summit on a 14'er. Several other groups were going up at the same time, which ment, "ROCK!" being yelled from time to time, but a good climb overall.
Posted Jul 11, 2005 2:56 pm

jefflachRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: July 2nd, 2005  Sucess!

jefflach

Beautiful climb and very warm. Still plenty of snow on the approach. The summit climb had patchy spots of snow, but there was plenty of room to get around them. My 1st 14.
Posted Jul 8, 2005 6:44 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: August 8, 2004

soslaw

Climbed with Andre and Robert under sunny Sierra skies. Made a rte error as we topped out at a U notch which was not the summit. As we had left Robert at the top of the glacier we did not attempt to reach the true summit.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 2:22 pm

RSN473Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 9-14-2000  Sucess!

RSN473

Climbed solo after my partner started leaking oil just below the glacier. Excellent climb!
Posted Dec 22, 2004 10:53 am

Steve LarsonRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: June 30, 1981  Sucess!

Steve Larson

Climbed this route with John Fischer, Allan Bard, and two clients as part of a Palisade School of Mountaineering custom guided tour of the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. I was the sherpa. In return for carrying the beer and other goodies, I was allowed to tag along on the climb. The weather was overcast, and turned into heavy snow just as we reached the summit. Our view from the top was limited to a few hundred feet. Too bad, this is such an awesome place. The storm dropped over a foot of snow. The next morning dawned clear and warm. Watched in awe as dozens of wet snow avalanches swept the faces of this and the surrounding peaks. Unforgettable.
Posted Nov 5, 2004 11:31 pm

ghoulwe2Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 28, 2004  Sucess!

ghoulwe2

Three members of the Ghoulwe Mountaineering Club: Dave Johnson, Charlie Downs & John Wettstein, summited Middle Palisade via the NE Face at 9:00 AM.
Posted Sep 27, 2004 7:32 pm

Gail JRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Sept. 14,1997  Sucess!

Gail J

My first fourteener. I made it. A great day.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 1:08 pm

cp0915Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: July 9, 2004  Sucess!

cp0915

Fantastic. Though a near-epic.
Posted Jul 11, 2004 10:01 am

Fred BagniRoute Climbed: North East Date Climbed: June 2003  Sucess!

Fred Bagni

Beautiful place. Carry plenty of mosquito repellant. One of my best trips. Best class 3 climb.
Posted Jul 10, 2004 6:39 pm

kelseymkrauseRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: June 27, 2004  Sucess!

kelseymkrause

This was a great climb! The red stained rock is crumbly, so be careful and check your holds. The rest of the rock is great. Luckily we were the only ones on the mountain otherwise rockfall could have been a problem. I would advise helmets.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 4:23 pm

Scott PierceRoute Climbed: NE Face (Up Left Couloir) Date Climbed: Late May 2004  Sucess!

Scott Pierce

Did the route as part of a ski tour. We crossed South Fork Pass from the west the day before and bivied in some rocks near the base of the glacier.



We had a large group, so managing the risk of rockfall while climbing was the biggest challenge.



Entered the couloir via a short ramp coming up from the glacier on the NE side--there are some belay slings there, so it sees some traffic. Went up the left fork of the couloir.



A few hours for a fast group bivied near the glacier--took us longer but bivy to bivy it took only 8 hours, with plenty of time on the summit ridge for pics.



Recommended for small groups with good class 3 skills only.
Posted Jun 19, 2004 3:32 pm

Sam MillsRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!

Sam Mills

I climbed this route with SummitPost members Misha, Etsuko, Michael G. and Andrew. A fantastic climb on a fantastic peak. Michael and myself went on tho climb Norman Clyde Peak (Mid Pals neighbor) the same day. Tent to tent, 12 hours.
Posted Jan 29, 2004 5:40 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Summer 1980  Sucess!
Climbed this with Mark Goebel. This route defines class 3 climbing.
Posted Jan 22, 2004 3:34 pm

RobtRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: July 2003  Sucess!

Robt

Posted Nov 5, 2003 3:37 pm

thenunzRoute Climbed: N. E. Face Date Climbed: 10/15/03  Sucess!

thenunz

Fun climb, missed ledge off S. glacier on the way up and improvised, but a beautiful place.
Posted Oct 26, 2003 1:36 pm

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