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Nick TurturaFull Moon  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2014

Nick Turtura

Went back up with the wife and friends for the full moon. The snow field is pretty much gone just above the crux. Tread lightly on the crux so we can keep this mountain together for a while longer. We don't need 2 ugly sisters.
Posted Aug 11, 2014 5:30 pm

Nick TurturaGreat day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2014

Nick Turtura

Headed up to give Hope a visit. Camped in the Obsidian Wilderness. Watched a beautiful lightening storm that night. Went up the North ridge. There does seem to be a bit of a Northern snow field hanging on just above the crux. I skirted it to the climbers right. Beautiful summit, and a great descent to Arrow Head lake where I took a dip to cool off.
Posted Aug 4, 2014 8:36 pm

mbtfirst technical snow climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2014
Climbed with the Mazamas. We had a beautiful day with great weather and views. Left from Pole Creek trailhead and set up base camp at the bottom of the Hayden Glacier. We then climbed the glacier and ascended via the North Ridge, traveling in rope teams and using a running belay for some of the steeper parts of the ascent. We hit snow about 2/3 of the way to base camp. Conditions were good except for what seemed to me some icy stuff at the start of the ascent of the ridge. We wound up climbing in a rocky area to avoid that part of the descent. Some of the upper stuff is pretty steep but not for long. We were able to plunge step almost the whole way back to camp after getting off the ridge. Definitely a step up from the things I've done before (Adams, Mt. St. Helens), and some of the more experienced climbers in the group noted that parts of the ascent were a little more challenging than they had anticipated.
Posted Jun 11, 2014 12:09 pm

Fairley8Second time is the charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2013

Fairley8

Tried to climb this a month earlier but didn't get to the summit. This time I was more prepared and climbed from the Obsidian TH with my brother. Beautiful weather with nice views of the surrounding mountains. Amazing sunset on the way down. Spent the night in a meadow and packed out in the morning. If you have never been to the Obsidian Trail I would highly recommend it. One of the most beautiful areas in Oregon.
Posted Jun 7, 2014 6:53 pm

Brian JenkinsBeating the Weather  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 25, 2014

Brian Jenkins

With Karl and Sue via the Southeast Ridge, descended the North Ridge which this time of year has a short downclimb through short slightly overhung icy bands to add some spice. Very windy. Lots of skiers. Why don't more people do the SE route route? Got off the mountain as lenticulars started popping up on all the mountains. Rain in by evening.
Posted May 26, 2014 1:53 am

boisedocSouth slopes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2013

boisedoc

Climbed this as a dayhike with a couple good friends. There were no permits available for the Obsidian trailhead so we hiked from Pole Creek. The Pole Creek area burned badly in 2012 but the trail is now open. The first few miles to Camp Lake are absolutely devastated. In late August at least, the route up the south slopes and southeast ridge is pretty straightforward class 2 talus and scree. There is a little snow to walk on but certainly bringing my ax and crampons was a waste of time. Definitely some rockfall danger. Great views of course. After reading some register entries I suspect the south slopes are easier than the north ridge route. The round trip time took about 11 hours
Posted Aug 22, 2013 10:27 am

triyodaSafety Not Guaranteed  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2013

triyoda

The top of this (above the saddle), is pile of sandy scree and broken volcanic rock. Probably the most dangerous thing I have been on (on par with the hourglass on Little Bear Peak). Not recommended.
Posted Jul 30, 2013 11:36 pm

Nick TurturaAnother perfect day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2013

Nick Turtura

This is my go to mountain for those whom have little experience. I took up a youth group of 7 and enjoyed another perfect day on the Little Sister. Each year I do this it seems like the crux at the top gets a little more washed out. Pretty soon we're going to have stop calling this a walk up. Please be careful to not destroy this beautiful mountain. Obsidian TH, Black Finn, wrapped over to Collier, North Col, Summit Ridge, North Buttress. Hit the Little Brother on the way down.
Posted Jul 28, 2013 8:15 pm

Troy BNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2013

Troy B

Hiked in via the Obsidian Trail then up along a climber's path until it was covered with snow. Followed the snow fields up to the north ridge which leads to the summit. Descended down the Renfrew Glacier and back to the climber's path. Beautiful views of the North and South Sisters.
Posted Jul 20, 2013 10:31 pm

shadGreat climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2012

shad

Climbed with Mazamas via North Ridge Hayden glacier, nice weather, great trip. The best thing about this mountain is that its central location right in the middle of the sisters and broken top with 360 degrees alpine scenery around you.
Posted Sep 9, 2012 5:21 pm

CascadiaKendraNW Approach from The Obsidian Trailhead  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012
Myself and 4 friends started the Middle Sister hike from the Northwest approach beginning at The Obsidian Trailhead off of the Old McKenzie Hwy 242. Two of my friends are fairly fit and athletic, while the rest of us are pretty average in shape. None of us had been doing much hiking in a long time though.

We started on the trail by 6am; it was beautiful with the sun just starting to come up and the air was crisp but warm. The Obsidian Trail is AMAZING. If nothing else, you must explore and experience the Obsidian area. (However it is a limited entry area and will become more strict for day hikers without a special pass, like ourselves, by next year...except for Pacific Crest Trail hikers). The trail starts at 4,800ft in the forest and eventually opens up into meadows and fields of gorgeous wild flowers, streams, and amazing views of the Three Sisters. We went through a huge area of black lava fields and eventually met up with the PCT at a junction called "Sunshine" and soon hiked into an area that was a mixture of greenery, wild flowers, trees, hills, and glassy, sparkling obsidian rock pieces, just everywhere!

We hit an area called Sister Spring that was a lush area of green grass, obsidian, and a red rocked stream amongst a shale cliff side and a snow filled gully. We took the gully up and thus began the snow and scree scramble up the Middle Sister.

We brought crampons and ice axes with us, but did not need to use the crampons at all. The snow was soft enough that our hiking boots did well. Ice axes and walking poles were helpful to keep our balance though. We went up through little valleys of snow and scree, spotting some cairns every now and then. We eventually hit the Renfrew Glacier and trekked our way up without a problem. As we approached the N ridge to the top, we started getting fairly fatigued as the scree and rocks were heinous and such a challenge. One from my group scrambled to the summit, and the rest of us made it slightly above the crux. There were no "easy" ways to the top, either unstable and steep snow stood in the path or unstable, treacherous rocks requiring a bit of rock climbing skills were available. We attempted to get up the rocks, but decided we were completely content with where we stood with a beautiful view of the North Sister directly in front of us as well as Mt Jefferson, Washington, 3 Fingered Jack, and the Collier Cone.

To be honest, the real reason we didn't get to the summit was because we were terrified! We encountered 3 careless hikers who decided to descend at the same time we were beneath them attempting to go up. Rather than communicating and assessing the potential dangers of this bottle-necked situation, they continued to clammer down the rocks and scree, while we yelled at them to "Please Stop and Wait for us to get out of the way!". They didn't seem to care about our safety despite causing huge rocks and scree to slide down right into our pathway. One elder gentlemen stood, terrified, below these hikers as a huge rock was knocked down by them and flew right in front of his face, merely inches away from his head. He descended quite quickly after that. I got myself out of the way and witnessed these hikers continue to allow rocks to fall, and an enormous 30-40 pound rock flew from them and almost knocked into a guy below who had his dog with him. The dog unfortunately was hit by this rock, right in the hind legs, and had his owner not been holding onto his collar, he might have gone tumbling over the ridge. The dog limped the rest of the way down. Nobody was wearing helmets up there, and thank goodness nobody got seriously injured, but there was high potential for a bad accident No thanks to the careless hikers!

At any rate, we went back down fairly fast, but managed to get slightly lost on the way down. We ended up a few ridges to the south from our original pathway, but bushwhacked it a little bit and found Sister Spring and the PCT after probably an hour of time wasted. Two from my group decided to frolic naked in one of the blue glacier pools!

Overall we returned at 7:00pm, 13 hours and 14-15 miles later; we were exhausted, our feet hurt, and one of my friends had gotten either altitude sickness or some other stomach bug and felt terrible. But I would do it again, maybe bring a helmet for safety at the top, or go earlier in the season or when there's more snow (safer than the rocks!), and maybe start from a closer starting point. Maybe I'll try the east side approach next time for a new experience!

Also important to learn and spread the words of hiking etiquette! (Such as, wait for others to get into a safer spot rather than letting rocks slide and fall on them!) For everyone's safety and also for the preservation of the fragile wilderness areas.


Posted Aug 28, 2012 3:14 pm

AlexeyDbeautiful!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2012

AlexeyD

Renfrew Glacier route from camp at Arrowhead Lake. Very late start (probably 10 AM or so), but made good time up the approach and glacier. A short, but steep (45 degrees or so) and icy snowfield about halfway up the north ridge was the crux of the route - three other climbers on the mountain that day had to turn around because they had not brought crampons and axes, thus we had the summit to ourselves. Excellent views to the north despite the haze, all the way to Hood and Adams. All in all, this is a very mellow and straightforward outing (except for that short bit on the north ridge) over some beautiful country and probably the world's friendliest glacier.
Posted Aug 27, 2012 2:47 pm

Vic HansonExtra miles  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2012

Vic Hanson

After first missing the climber's trail turn off, I lost track of the trail under the snow. In spite of the many climbers who went up yesterday, their tracks coming down had already disappeared in the melting snow. The route description was confusing to me and I went up the wrong gully and ridge, which I realized when I reached a rock strewn and crevasse filled glacier, below a high and steep rock
wall! I angled lower and crossed the glacier safely to the correct ridge and made the slow steep climb to the summit, having the mountain to myself on a Monday. Coming down I tried to follow the correct route but again lost it trying to get back to the climber's trail. I checked the track the gps app on my tablet was making and was able to easily head cross country to rejoin the trail, however I soon realized I didn't have my trekking poles anymore! I followed the gps track back to where I stopped to get it out of my pack and there were my poles! After losing about an hour I was back on the trail, and reached the trail head 10 hr 34 min and 19.4 miles later.
Posted Aug 23, 2012 4:22 am

bedellympianconsolation prize  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012

bedellympian

Tried North without beta and got sketched out by the bad scree and route finding issues. Ran up Middle to make ourselves feel more accomplished. Nice view and stuff I guess.
Posted Aug 19, 2012 3:06 pm

nicozoneSecond Times the Charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012

nicozone

After trying to climb Middle Sister via Obsidian TH two years ago (in June-uary), I'm glad to say that I have laid this beast to rest. We started from Pole Creek TH, camped just above treeline in the valleys in-between Middle and North, and headed up the North Ridge via Hayden Glacier on Sunday morning. We originally planned to leave at 4am, but a large group of Mazamas were planning to rope up and attempt the same route at 3:30am, so we decided to postpone and go at 5am to give them enough time so that we didn't bottleneck. Got to the summit at 9:30am. Great snow conditions and a fun bit of exposed ice to traverse.
Posted Jun 19, 2012 9:31 pm

Nick TurturaPerfect day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2011

Nick Turtura

Clear day with good friends.
Posted Jun 5, 2012 12:20 am

mrmaxtraxhayden glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011

mrmaxtrax

chemeketan climb success!
Posted Apr 19, 2012 1:50 am

mastercoogMiddle Sister North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2011

mastercoog

Climbed Middle Sister the same day after climbing North Sister via the saddle between north and middle after camping the night before at Arrowhead Lake. Was a fun rock climb but a ice sheet on the normal route force us to do some hands and knees climbing around it which we tried to avoid on the descent but it ended up being the safest option. Great views. Enjoyed the glissades on the glaciers back to camp.
Posted Feb 19, 2012 6:58 pm

santanoniHayden Glacier, North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2011

santanoni

Not much in the way of crevasses on the glacier. We moved well up to the notch between North and Middle. One group member had some issues on the final ridge that forced them to turn back, but everyone else made it aside from a second who went back with them for safety sake. Windy, but not bad.
Posted Jan 13, 2012 11:54 am

Infected MushroomNorth ridge x3  Sucess!

Infected Mushroom

Been up it a few times now, need me some skis.
Posted Sep 18, 2011 10:12 pm

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