Mont Blanc GROUP > Mont Blanc du Tacul > Climber's LogMont Blanc du Tacul Climber's Log
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| athpal | Route Climbed: NW flank (normal route) Date Climbed: 22 August 2002  | |
| We reach the summit via the normal route. The weather was sunny and the view of the Alpes magnificent. We needed two hours and forty minutes for the ascent and two and a half for the descent. Easy ascent without any difficulties. | |
| Posted Apr 24, 2003 3:52 am | ||
| Tom Fralich | Route Climbed: See Below Date Climbed: See Below | |
| Chere Couloir -- March 22, 2003 -- Climbed the Chere Couloir in 5 pitches with Juan Valderrama, then continued over mixed ground and one more ice pitch to reach the top of the north face triangle. We then followed the north ridge (avoiding some crevasses and staying well back from the cornice) to reach the summit rocks. The descent by the NW slope was quite hairy, with a rappel over the bergschrund and some very steep downclimbing at the bottom of the route. Hidden Couloir (Cecchinel-Jager variant with direct finish) -- February 4, 2007 -- With Tracy and Magnus, simul-soloed the first 200m of the Jager Couloir, then moved right to the Hidden Couloir and simul-soloed to reach the direct finish. Tracy led the crux pitch of 90 degree ice (grade 5) in a chimney followed by hard mixed ground to reach the north ridge. We then followed the north ridge until we could make a descending traverse above the seracs to reach the normal route on the NW slope. The descent was a bit treacherous with areas of wind slab and a steep section above the lower bergschrund. After completing the descent, we returned to the Aiguille du Midi cable-car station and bivied in the restrooms. | |
| Posted Mar 26, 2003 10:46 am | ||
| El Tigre Valderrama | Route Climbed: Chere Couloir, descent north slope Date Climbed: March 22, 2003 | |
| the Chere looks fine, but the second part of the north face triangle requires good alpine scrambing skills and the ability of moving together. We continued via the north ridge to the summit. The ridge is very creavassed now and the huge cornise is scaring. The descent via the normal route requires one rappel on a rimaye and downclimb 2 sections of 80 degrees snow, one of 15 meters and other of 50 meters. The normal rourte is now very exposed ro seracs and has many creavasses. | |
| Posted Mar 24, 2003 10:00 am | ||
| tne | Route Climbed: NW flank Date Climbed: 22 Mar 2003 | |
| A nice day, one big crevass on the way up. No other problems(The guy in cosmique hut sad it was 2 big crevasses but we only found one) | |
| Posted Mar 24, 2003 2:03 am | ||
| everesttim | Route Climbed: normal route from valle blanche Date Climbed: 20th July 2003 | |
| a wonderful quiet climb (a rareity I know!) from an early morning bivvi on the Valee Blanche. Had the summit to ourselves and watched dawn break over Italy - a wonderfully straightforward climb. Only on the descent did we pass the crowds wh had spewed out of the Midi telepherique that morning. Recommended for acclimatisation and its simplicity. | ||
| Posted Feb 28, 2003 5:19 am | ||
| Frank | Route Climbed: Goulotte de Cheré Date Climbed: July 2001 | |
| Unfortunately we had to retreat because of bad weather. Goulotte de Cheré is alsmost all the time in condition. Will try it again in march 2003 Check also: www.ohm-chamonix.com www.iceclimbing.nl -> links www.basislager.ch | |
| Posted Feb 23, 2003 7:40 am | ||
| Mr Eddie | Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 2002 | |
| My first ever alpine route (and first ever time in crampons), We went for it cos the weather was turning very soon so had to do it or not anything. Alot steeper than 40 degrees in places that year, The only downside is the number of people at the summit. | ||
| Posted Dec 29, 2002 3:35 am | ||
| tomclimb | Route Climbed: Contamine-Negri Date Climbed: 31 mars 2002 | |
| Its a350m route on the left of the Contamine-Grisolle with a short 65-70 degrees pitch. At the top of the Triangle, we followed the normal route to the summit. | ||
| Posted Dec 29, 2002 3:15 am | ||
| TodoVertical | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Aug. 1997 | |
| Mario and I climbed Mt. Tacul the day before climbing Mt. Blanc. It was an easy climb on a beutiful day. | |
| Posted Dec 4, 2002 12:12 pm | ||
| kullaberg | Route Climbed: gabarrou/albinioni Date Climbed: apr 88 | |
| this is a neo classic. a steep, narrow gully for half a dozen pitches, with fixed rap anchors so you can descend to your skis when the climbing turns trivial towards the top. before reaching the superb technical pitches you have to negotiate a 1500' rather steep snow gully. combined with an afternoon ski descend of vallee blanche you have a great day in the mountains. | |
| Posted Nov 28, 2002 10:55 am | ||
| Samuli Mansikka | Route Climbed: Triangle/North face Date Climbed: June 2002 | |
| Summitted as the first summit during the "Three Mont Blanc" in june. A very enjoyable climb! | |
| Posted Nov 3, 2002 12:24 pm | ||
| climbit | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 15-Sep-2002 | |
| It was a beautiful, calm day on the Col du Midi but the summit ridge of Tocul was like a day I'd imagine in the Himalaya... the rope drawn taut in a sideways arc between us by fierce winds. The party behind us turned back due to the cold. Alberto tried to freeze his %$!! off but failed. I'm glad Marco was leading because there was so much spindrift blowing at the base of the summit block that i couldn't see anything despite there not being a cloud in the sky! What a great time! The God of Winds let off on the blasts for a few minutes of our stay on the summit. Great stuff. Pictures of me and Alberto with Maudit behind... classic. From the base of Cosmiques we could still see the white plume streaming off the summit against a deep blue sky... | |
| Posted Oct 18, 2002 4:57 pm | ||
| Chucky | Route Climbed: "normal glacier" Date Climbed: 13 September 2002 | |
| I signed up for the 5 day course with the Chamonix Mountain Guides Company. While poised for the launch for Mont Blanc in the Cosmiques Hut, we were weathered out by strong winds and fresh snow on the morning of 12 September. So on our last day (Friday, the 13th) we went for Mont Blanc Du Tacul as a substitute. My French guide, Fred, got me there and back, safe and sound. Two classmates from Great Britain, Julia and Steve, led by their Italian guide, Alberto, made the trip with me. We had awesome visibility, and the weather was very kind to us. | |
| Posted Sep 14, 2002 5:56 am | ||
| Chamonix Man | Route Climbed: Normal route from Aiguille du Midi Date Climbed: July 2000 | |
| I climbed over the shoulder of this mountain on the way to the summit of Mt. Blanc in 1999 and always regretted not taking the diversion to the summit then. Went back and climbed it in 2000 It is quite a busy peak but fun nevertheless. A picturesque rocky summit. | |
| Posted Aug 10, 2002 8:24 am | ||
| Rahel Maria Liu | Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 27, 2002 | |
| The first mountain after Aiguille du Midi on Ivano's and my way to reach our bivouac place on Col de la Brenva for our opening of a new route (Eperon Gousseault) on Mont Maudit the next day. | |
| Posted Aug 4, 2002 7:47 am | ||
| nivagh | Route Climbed: Normal route followed by Arête des Cosmiques Date Climbed: 12 July 2002 | |
| If you are attracted by fine lines and interesting routes, the normal path is probably not for you. It's nothing more than a plod up a glacier and as such has very little interest. The summit block is rather exposed, and we had low temperatures and high wind. The ridge to the Eastern summit (1m lower) is interesting and delicate, and worth the short detour. It is preferable to start from the refuge des Cosmiques, or to camp or bivvy in the Vallée Blanche in order to get an early start and hence avoid the crowds of people who come up on the first cable car from Chamonix (6 am.) Route up about 2 hours. We walked back down and returned to the Midi via the Cosmiques arete, which is a fine route with some interesting sections, and a fair degree of exposure towards the end. There are several points equipped for abseil, but we only did one. Towards the end there are some very interesting icy couloirs on the Chamonix side, where it is possible to climb at about Scotish 4 and avoid the queues that build up towards the single aid section on the slabs. An enjoyable route that finishes at the cable car station viewing platform. We took 4 hours, mainly due to congestion - can probably be done in three, but it's a good rock and a fine situation, and can be done in the afternoon, so why rush it?! | |
| Posted Jul 23, 2002 3:40 am | ||
| El Tigre Valderrama | Route Climbed: Standar Route via north face Date Climbed: July 2001 | |
| Climbed with my wife Annica. We had a lot of fun. No problems on the climb and with the weather | |
| Posted Jun 16, 2002 8:26 am | ||
| Madveras | Route Climbed: Aiguille du Midi - Tacul Date Climbed: Agoust 16th 2001 | |
| Althought the weather conditions were so adverses we could reach the top. | |
| Posted May 30, 2002 7:45 am | ||
| Diego Sahagún | Route Climbed: NW-flank (normal route) Date Climbed: 16 July 1990 | |
| We (my father and two brothers of mine) only reached height 3.670, more or less. We passed the first crack on the NW face. We didn't go with the idea of reaching the summit, only to familiarize with crampons, piolets and rope. Start at Aiguille du Midi, bright day. I remember an helicopter bringing aid a belay below, near Col du Midi and the impressive S cliff of Aiguille du Midi. | |
| Posted Apr 15, 2002 6:03 pm | ||
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