Mont Blanc du Tacul : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Mont Blanc du Tacul is one of Mont Blanc main summits: Mont Blanc itself (4810m), Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, Mont Maudit (4465) , Dôme du Gouter (4304 m) , Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m), Aiguille de Bionassay (4025m) ...

Of course, it's located on the 3 Monts Blanc route (Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc).

The normal route is a 2 hours of walk away from the Refuge des Cosmiques on a glacier in the north face (600hm) with variety of snow and ice types. From the cable car of the Aiguille du Midi, you can reach the refuge by descending about 300 meters (45 mn). The route is not very long but take care of snow, seracs, and weather conditions . Serac falls, snow accumulation avalanches have still killed people here at any hour. It can become cold and windy in a very short time. In clouds it's not easy to find the path on glacier and there are some big crevasses near col du Midi. The way from col du Midi to the summit is just a steep glacier walk with difficulty PD+. That is a reasonable difficulty for crevassed route. The second part of the ascend route to the "Epaule" is exposed : long steep snow/ice slope over some big serac cliffs. The last 30 meters to the summit are of ice and rocks and partially exposed over the steep east face.

This route can be combined with the ridge '' arete des Cosmiques '' on the Aiguille du Midi. Difficulty AD with rockclimbing III+.

It is one of the most climbed peaks in Chamonix Valley because of its location on 3 Ms' route and short access from cable car. Don't forget the objective dangers of this face (Snow or Seracs avalanches, crevasses, fog), especially when coming back late from long routes (Mt Blanc Du Tacul east side, Mont Maudit routes, Mont Blanc 3M route, or Mont Blanc Traverse)

Mont Blanc du Tacul is known too for it's steep and rocky/icy E face (see routes and links for details).

Gervassutti Couloir (800hm, 3450m to 4228m, D-, 2-8h, start from Cosmiques hut or Torino hut)

Boccalate Pilar: (800hm, 3430m to 4248m,TD, 5-7h, start from Cosmiques hut or Torino hut).

Gervassutti Pilar: (800hm, 3400m to 4248m,TD, 7-10h, start from Cosmiques hut or Torino hut). G.Gervassutti died in september 16 1946, descending because of bad weather.

(Rahel wrote: Thanks to om for worthful information.)

Dedication: Thanks to Rahel Maria for this great page.
The last maintainer and nice original submiter of this page Rahel Maria Liu died 24/25 August 2004 after being caught in a freak snowstorm on the southern face of Mont Blanc. She was 34 years old.

Route Overview

The Mont Blanc du Tacul has altogether more than 40 different routes. Some of them are:

A. North-West flank

1. Normal route

40°, mostly less, PD, very beautiful glacier-tour with partly big crevasses! After new snowfall, avalanches also in summer possible! 700 hm from Col du Midi, 2,5 h (Eberlein)

B. Triangle and North face (the order of the following routes: from W to E (according to Damilano/Perroux)

1. Chéré couloir:

80° (short passage), 70° (1 rope length), the rest 50°-60°, D+, short, interesting ice couloir, frequently climbed, 300 hm, 3-4 h (Eberlein)
II 4. 350 hm, ice till 85° (Damilano/Perroux)

2. Goulotte du sérac : III 4. 180 m
3. Goulotte Perroux : III 4+, 5b, 350 hm, ice till 70°
4. Le temps est assassin : II 4. 350 hm, mixed
5. Eperon N. : III 4. 350 hm, ice till 50°
6. Contamine Mazeaud rectifiée : III 4. 350 hm, ice till 80°
7. Contamine Mazeaud : II AD+. 350 hm, ice till 65°
8. Directissime : III 4+. 350 hm
9. Gabbarou-Marquis : III 4. 350 hm, ice till 65°
10. Contamine Grisolles : II AD. 350 hm, ice till 60°
11. Petit Frounet : II D. 350 hm
12. Contamine-Négri : IV 2. 350 hm, ice till 70°
13. Voie diagonale : III AD+. 350 hm
14. Pibarot-ci, Pibarot-1à : V 4 à 5. 500 hm
15. La main dans le sac : V 5 à 6. 500 hm
16. La tête dans les Etoiles : V 5 à 6. 500 hm
17. Arête E : IV 2. 600 hm, ice till 70°

C. East Face (order of the routes from N to S according to Damilano/Perroux

1. Scotch on the Rocks: IV 7, M. 450 hm
2. Pinochio: IV 6+. 450 hm
3. Modica-Noury: III 5+. 500 hm
4. Gabarrou-Albinoni:

III 4+, 500 hm, ice till 85 ° (Damilano/Perroux)
IV, TD-, 600 hm, ice till 80°, mixed, very beautiful small ice couloir with some very extreme steep passages, 4-6 h (Eberlein)

5 Hidden Couloir: III 4, 4c, 600 hm, ice till 80°, mixed
6. Direct climbing of the Hidden Couloir: IV 5. 200 m
7. Couloir Jaeger: II D. 600 m, ice till 60°, beautiful couloir
8. Couloir Gervasutti (classic climbing out to the right side/Terray-Lachenal) :

D-, ice till 55°, average: 50°, famous ice tour, objectively dangerous because of rock and ice fall and avalanches, 700 hm, 2-6 h, also as "ski extreme" by people gone down (Eberlein)
V D, 600 hm, till 55° (Damilano/Perroux)

8. Couloir Gervasutti (climbing out to the left side/Chabod-Gervasutti): V 1, 800 hm, ice till 60° (Damilano/Perroux)
9. Couloir Macho: IV 2, 800 hm, ice till 70°
10. Supercouloir:
85°, V+, maybe A1, ED-, famous tour with constant difficulty, best time in spring, 800 hm, 8-10 h (Eberlein)
IV 5+, 5c/A1, 800 hm (Damilano/Perroux)

All information concerning the valuation of the routes' difficulty (except explicit reference to other books) according to Damilano/Perroux, Neige, Glace Et Mixte: Mont Blanc. Chamonix: Editions Ice, 1996. ISBN 2950986803. PP. 263-285.

More Classic east face routes :

20. Pilier Boccalatte (Boccalatte-Pietrasanta 1936) D/TD - 800m
21. Pilier Gervasutti (Fornelli-Mauro 1951) TD/TD sup - 800m
22. Couloir du Diable and SE ridge (Boccalatte-Chabod 1930) D - 800m

D. South Face

Some almost forgotten routes starting from the Cirque Maudit, first climbed at the beginning of the last century (1902-1914)
further info are missing, should be "classic" high mountain routes.

First Ascents
It was probablely done by members of Hudson-Kennedy expedition August 8 1855.

Gervassutti Couloir: R Chabod and Giusto Gervasutti: august 13 1934

Pilier Boccalatte: Mies N. Pietrasanta and Gabriele Boccalatte: august 28 1936.

Pilier Gervassutti: P. Fornelli and G Mauro july 29-30 1951

(Thanks to om for worthful information.)

Glaciers: La Vallée Blanche and la Mer de Glace
The second longuest Glacier in the Alps after Aletsch Glacier is descending from Mont Blanc du Tacul to Chamonix Valley.
The highest part of it is named Glacier du Géant and Vallée Blanche (White Valley) and the part from ice fall to the end is named Mer de Glace (Ice sea)

(Thanks to om for worthful information.)

Getting There
1. To the Mont Blanc du Tacul:

a. You can come from the Ref. Cosmiques/Biv. Abri Simond. (Compare the route discription of the NE-ridge and the N-flank.)

b. You can come from the Rif. Torino
2. To the Ref. Cosmiques and the Biv. Abri Simond:

In order to reach the hut, you need about 1/2 h from the Aig. du Midi. If you leave the cable car station via the bridge, you go to the Southsummit. On the firn ridge, you go down with SE-direction to an even ridgeplatform; then turn right to the S and SW-direction below the S-face of the Aig. du Midi. Pay attention to crevasses!

You reach the Aig. du Midi with cable car from Chamonix.
3. To the Rif. Torino

You reach the hut directly with the cable car from Entrèves/Courmayeur (Italy).

You can reach the hut directly also with the Helbronner cable car from the Aiguille du Midi (to Aiguille du Midi with the cable car from Chamonix). Pay attention: The Helbronner cable car, traversing the Géant glacier, is mostly closed.

Or you go on foot from the Aiguille du Midi over the glacier du Géant (3 h): From the foot of the S-face of the Aig. du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Pointe Lachenal, turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E-face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. You go along this E-face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Now you turn to the ESE to the Col des Flambeaux. From here in a few minutes to the Ref. Torino. It is a very beautiful glacier walk with 200 hm ascent. Difficulty: F.
4. You reach the Chamonix Valley by train:
a. From Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine.

b. From Geneva (airport) via Anncey (TGV till here) and St. Gervais.
5. You reach the Chamonix Valley by bus:
From/via Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin
6 . You reach the Chamonix Valley by car:
a. From Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the N205.

b. From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.

7. You reach the Val Ferret (Italy) by bus or car:
a. From Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW.

b. From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.

Red Tape
There are no permits or fees required. There is no seasonal closure. Only the Helbronner Cable Car is mostly closed because of ecological reasons. There is a big parking place in Chamonix near the Cable Car ground station. But if there are winter sport sessions in Chamonix, it might be closed. Then it is really difficult to find a parking place.

When To Climb
You can climb the Mont du Tacul all the year. In winter, you can also go by ski via the NW-side, depot at the Col du Mont Maudit. During winter, the advantage for the climbs of the couloirs is less danger of rock and ice fall. But the problem is the coldness! Be aware that it could be -30°C! The danger of getting frostbites is very high!

Camping
There is a camping place in Chamonix.

Accomodation
1. Ref. des Cosmiques (3613 m)

The Ref. des Cosmiques is situated on a shoulder between the Col du Midi and the SW-ridge of the Aig. du Midi (Cosmiques-ridge).
according to Eberlein (p. 52):

140 beds

guarded from February till october

phone: ++33(0)450544016

internet: Rif. Cosmiques
2. Abri Simond Bivouac

The Abri Simond Bivouac is situated just a few meters northern of the Ref. des Cosmiques, just at the beginning of the Arête des Cosmiques.
18 beds

open in winter, when Ref. des Cosmiques is closed

a few words: I can highly recommend this little bivouac hut of about 30 qm!!! I have stayed there for 1 week in winter (January/February). I promise you: Never in life, you will forget this experience ... when it is -30°C outside, and stormy with 120 km/h, without toilette of course, without heating, without light, without water of course, the hut never been cleaned, you almost poisoned with the vapours of the many gasoline stoves burning hours and hours .... well you must experience it by yourself .... one just cannot describe it!!!
3. Rif. Torino (3322m/3375m)

The Rif. Torino has 2 huts, the lower and older one and the upper, new one. Both huts are connected by a tunnel.

the lower old one
according to Eberlein (pp. 64-65):

with 70 beds

serviced from October to June

Tel. 00390/165/846484

internet: Rif.Torino.old
the upper new one
according to Eberlein (pp. 65-65):

with 170 beds

serviced from June to September

Tel. 00390/165/844034 (expensive)

internet: Rif.Torino.new

You can find further information concerning possibilities to stay on the Géant Glacier on the Ref. des Cosmiques/Abri Simond Bivouac HUT-page.

Mountain Conditions and General Information
1. WEATHER INFOS:
Chamonix meteo forecast (7 days)
>
Météo France in Chamonix: 0033/836680274
Snowinfos: 0033/836 681 020 (only in France, not from abroad)
internet: Météo France
2. GENERAL INFOS:
Office de Haute Montagnes (OHM)/Chamonix:
0033450 532 208 (9:00-12:00 & 15:00-18:00 during the summer)

Bureau des Guides in Chamonix: 0033/450530088.
Office de Tourisme in Chamonix: 0033/450530024
Office de Tourisme Argentière: 0033/450540214
internet:
www.chamonix.com
www.courmayer-montblanc.com

www.aiguilledumidi.com
3. TRAIN (CHAMONIX VALLEY):
0033/450 53 1298
0033/8 36 35 35 35
0033/450530702 (train station Chamonix)
internet: www.cff.ch

4. BUS (CHAMONIX VALLEY):
0033/450 53 0555
0033/450 53 0115
5. CABLE CARS
Aiguille du Midi: 0033/450/533080
Courmayeur: Tel. 00390/165.846658, Fax 00390/165.842347

Maps
Institut Géographique National
1:25000 no. 3630 OT (Chamonix)
1:25000 no. 3531 ET (St-Gervais)
to order at:
DAV Service
cordee.co.uk
www.swisstopo.ch
www.ign.fr

Books
Damilano/Perroux, Neige, Glace Et Mixte: Mont Blanc. Chamonix: Editions Ice, 1996.
ISBN 2950986803
(to order at cordee.co.uk)

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998.
ISBN 3-7633-7427-2
(to order at amazon.de)

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1994.
ISBN 0898863783
(to order at amazon.com)

Hartmut Eberlein: Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. DAV-Gebietsführer. 9th ed. Munich 2000.
ISBN 3-7633-2414-3
(to order at amazon.de)

Goedeke, Richard: The Alpine 4000m peaks by the Classic Routes. Birmingham: Menacha Ridge Press, 1997.
ISBN 0897321111
(to order at amazon.com)

Laroche/Lelong: Die Gipfel des Montblanc. Munich 1999.
ISBN 3-405-15693-9
(to order at amazon.de)

Michel Piola: Mont Blanc Topo Guide Vol. 1 (Rock). Published by Editions Equinoxe 1988. Distributed by Cordee £17.95
ISBN 904405281

Michel Piola: Mont Blanc Topo Guide Vol. 2 . Published by Editions Equinoxe 1993. Distributed by Cordee £17.95
ISBN Unknown

Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 Finest Routes. London 1996.
ISBN 1-898573-03-4
(to order at amazon.de or at amazon.com)

Erich Vanis, Im steilen Eis. Munich 1980.
ISBN 3-405-12158-2
(to order at: online-buchvertrieb.de

Global views taken from Aiguille du Midi or from vallée Blanche cable car
NW flank pictures
N ridge and E face pictures
Triangle du Tacul Pictures
South side pictures
Summits pictures
Panorama from summit
Dedication to Rahel
This page has been build mostly by Rahel Maria Liu who loved this mountain. I will maintain the page in her memory with only a few updates when necessary.
Rahel, the last time i went on this mountain, I could meet your great spirit there.

External Links
Mont Blanc interactive webcam
usefull for having nice panorama from home or weather live checking

General info on Chamonix valley
compilation of information about Chamonix

Aiguille du Midi Cable Car
Opening hours - Reservations

montagnes.com
Mont Blanc du Tacul Interactive routes

montagnes.com
Mont Blanc du Tacul Interactive routes (east face)

montagnes.com
Mont Blanc du Tacul Interactif panorama (east face): move the mouse on the photo to obtain the name of the part you are pointing on.

montagnes.com
Interactive routes on pilier Gervasutti

mountain guide
6 days climbing with a guide ( mont blanc du tacul, tour ronde, ...)

www.MountainArea.com
111 photos of the 3 Mont Blanc Traverse including the opening of the new route Éperon Gousseault by Ivano Ghirardini and Rahel Maria Liu on July 28, 2002.

Mont Blanc du Tacul at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps

Mountain Guide Adventure - Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
A Mountain Guide team will help you to realize your mountain and adventure dreams . A Mountain Guide team in Chamonix propose : mountaineering, alpine rock climbing, ice climbing, heliskiing, ski touring, off piste skiing and expeditions all over the world.

Additions and Corrections
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Viewing: 1-2 of 2
nivagh Untitled Comment
Hasn't voted
Camping in the Vallée Blanch is officially prohibited by a local bye-law (arêté prefectorale), but is currently tolerated in the Vallée Blanche. (Summer 2002).

If you look down from the Midi cable car station, it looks like a little village at times!

Because it is only a 20 minute walk down from the cable car station, it is possible to carry enormous quantities of gear down onto the glacier, and make yourself very comfortable.

It's a great situation for most Mont Blanc routes, as well as those across the Vallée Blanche (2 hours walk. Shame on you if you take the cable car!!) such as the Tour Ronde, Dent du Géant, Rochefort Arête, Grandes Jorasses, etc, etc.
Posted Jul 23, 2002 3:27 am
Chucky Untitled Comment
Hasn't voted
According to a sign I saw posted on Aiguille du Midi, at the exit to the "haute montagne" area, persons can set up tents pretty much any place they choose on the mountain, free of charge, provided the tents are up after sunset and down before sunrise. During the week of 10-13 September, 2002, I noted a number of tents up at "high noon," in the Col du Midi (3,532 meters). No one seemed to care and I certainly did not see anyone out there performing official duties, fining campers, or ordering them to depart the area.

Posted Sep 14, 2002 1:51 pm

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