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Mont Blanc du Tacul Climber's Log

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roadsidefireRoute Climbed: from Aguile di Midi Date Climbed: June 2001  Sucess!


Crossed ice field. Started from cable car around 7am, went up and came down by 11pm. Met up with some kind British mountaineers.
Posted Apr 14, 2004 4:19 am

Antonio GianiRoute Climbed: canalone Gervasutti Date Climbed: 1970  Sucess!

Antonio Giani

dal rifugio Torino
Posted Apr 13, 2004 2:38 am

pmakelaRoute Climbed: NW-falnk Date Climbed: June 1999  Sucess!


Easy route. Good weather.
Posted Feb 18, 2004 11:15 am

ProbemeisterRoute Climbed: Contamine Grisolle Date Climbed: July 2001
An excellent mixed climb up the LHS of the North Face Triangle. We did not summit as we were knackered from a long day on the Midi-Plan in a whiteout the previous day. For all the British users on here, this route would be easy grade 3 in Scotland with good belays
Posted Sep 8, 2003 10:11 am

Richard PurchonRoute Climbed: form Aig du Midi Date Climbed: 22 August 2003  Sucess!

Richard Purchon

is out of condition due to the small amounts of snow last winter and the following heatwave as the snow bridge has colasped we took the line to the left around the crevasses and up the serac. this 5m pitch on the serac is fine in the eary morning but after a day of sun becomes very unpleasant.
Posted Sep 8, 2003 7:14 am

denarneRoute Climbed: NW flank Date Climbed: 09 july 2003
we had a good pace, and it was a very nice climb, very varied, but since snow conditions this year are awfull, we turned back after a partie dropped into the crevasse which we had just crossed three seconds ago. we didnt feel like going for the summit anymore...

but for the rest, I think it should be a nice climb!
Posted Jul 20, 2003 6:22 am

athpalRoute Climbed: NW flank (normal route) Date Climbed: 22 August 2002  Sucess!


We reach the summit via the normal route. The weather was sunny and the view of the Alpes magnificent. We needed two hours and forty minutes for the ascent and two and a half for the descent. Easy ascent without any difficulties.
Posted Apr 24, 2003 3:52 am

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: See Below Date Climbed: See Below

Tom Fralich

Chere Couloir -- March 22, 2003 -- Climbed the Chere Couloir in 5 pitches with Juan Valderrama, then continued over mixed ground and one more ice pitch to reach the top of the north face triangle. We then followed the north ridge (avoiding some crevasses and staying well back from the cornice) to reach the summit rocks. The descent by the NW slope was quite hairy, with a rappel over the bergschrund and some very steep downclimbing at the bottom of the route.

Hidden Couloir (Cecchinel-Jager variant with direct finish) -- February 4, 2007 -- With Tracy and Magnus, simul-soloed the first 200m of the Jager Couloir, then moved right to the Hidden Couloir and simul-soloed to reach the direct finish. Tracy led the crux pitch of 90 degree ice (grade 5) in a chimney followed by hard mixed ground to reach the north ridge. We then followed the north ridge until we could make a descending traverse above the seracs to reach the normal route on the NW slope. The descent was a bit treacherous with areas of wind slab and a steep section above the lower bergschrund. After completing the descent, we returned to the Aiguille du Midi cable-car station and bivied in the restrooms.

Contamine-Grisolle -- June 26, 2013 -- Climbed with Oyvind from Norway and realized that I'm quite out of shape at the moment. Interesting climbing but a bit crowded. We soloed the lower part of the route to the first ice runnel and then simul-climbed the rest. The descent down the normal route was in better condition than on prior trips.
Posted Mar 26, 2003 10:46 am

El Tigre ValderramaRoute Climbed: Chere Couloir, descent north slope Date Climbed: March 22, 2003  Sucess!

El Tigre Valderrama

the Chere looks fine, but the second part of the north face triangle requires good alpine scrambing skills and the ability of moving together. We continued via the north ridge to the summit. The ridge is very creavassed now and the huge cornise is scaring. The descent via the normal route requires one rappel on a rimaye and downclimb 2 sections of 80 degrees snow, one of 15 meters and other of 50 meters. The normal rourte is now very exposed ro seracs and has many creavasses.
Posted Mar 24, 2003 10:00 am

tneRoute Climbed: NW flank Date Climbed: 22 Mar 2003  Sucess!


A nice day, one big crevass on the way up. No other problems(The guy in cosmique hut sad it was 2 big crevasses but we only found one)

Posted Mar 24, 2003 2:03 am

cuprinaRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: April 9, 2002
Few days after running Paris marathon... Did not summit but enjoyed the snow and total solitude on the glacier. Will come back someday.
Posted Mar 13, 2003 4:15 pm

everesttimRoute Climbed: normal route from valle blanche Date Climbed: 20th July 2003  Sucess!
a wonderful quiet climb (a rareity I know!) from an early morning bivvi on the Valee Blanche. Had the summit to ourselves and watched dawn break over Italy - a wonderfully straightforward climb.

Only on the descent did we pass the crowds wh had spewed out of the Midi telepherique that morning. Recommended for acclimatisation and its simplicity.
Posted Feb 28, 2003 5:19 am

FrankRoute Climbed: Goulotte de CherĂ© Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!


Unfortunately we had to retreat because of bad weather. Goulotte de Cheré is alsmost all the time in condition. Will try it again in march 2003

Check also:


www.iceclimbing.nl -> links

Posted Feb 23, 2003 7:40 am

Mr EddieRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!
My first ever alpine route (and first ever time in crampons), We went for it cos the weather was turning very soon so had to do it or not anything. Alot steeper than 40 degrees in places that year, The only downside is the number of people at the summit.
Posted Dec 29, 2002 3:35 am

tomclimbRoute Climbed: Contamine-Negri Date Climbed: 31 mars 2002  Sucess!
Its a350m route on the left of the Contamine-Grisolle with a short 65-70 degrees pitch. At the top of the Triangle, we followed the normal route to the summit.

Posted Dec 29, 2002 3:15 am

TodoVerticalRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Aug. 1997  Sucess!


Mario and I climbed Mt. Tacul the day before climbing Mt. Blanc. It was an easy climb on a beutiful day.
Posted Dec 4, 2002 12:12 pm

kullabergRoute Climbed: gabarrou/albinioni Date Climbed: apr 88


this is a neo classic. a steep, narrow gully for half a dozen pitches, with fixed rap anchors so you can descend to your skis when the climbing turns trivial towards the top. before reaching the superb technical pitches you have to negotiate a 1500' rather steep snow gully. combined with an afternoon ski descend of vallee blanche you have a great day in the mountains.
Posted Nov 28, 2002 10:55 am

Samuli MansikkaRoute Climbed: Triangle/North face Date Climbed: June 2002  Sucess!

Samuli Mansikka

Summitted as the first summit during the "Three Mont Blanc" in june. A very enjoyable climb!
Posted Nov 3, 2002 12:24 pm

climbitRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 15-Sep-2002  Sucess!


It was a beautiful, calm day on the Col du Midi but the summit ridge of Tocul was like a day I'd imagine in the Himalaya... the rope drawn taut in a sideways arc between us by fierce winds. The party behind us turned back due to the cold. Alberto tried to freeze his %$!! off but failed. I'm glad Marco was leading because there was so much spindrift blowing at the base of the summit block that i couldn't see anything despite there not being a cloud in the sky! What a great time! The God of Winds let off on the blasts for a few minutes of our stay on the summit. Great stuff. Pictures of me and Alberto with Maudit behind... classic. From the base of Cosmiques we could still see the white plume streaming off the summit against a deep blue sky...
Posted Oct 18, 2002 4:57 pm

ChuckyRoute Climbed: "normal glacier" Date Climbed: 13 September 2002  Sucess!


I signed up for the 5 day course with the Chamonix Mountain Guides Company. While poised for the launch for Mont Blanc in the Cosmiques Hut, we were weathered out by strong winds and fresh snow on the morning of 12 September. So on our last day (Friday, the 13th) we went for Mont Blanc Du Tacul as a substitute. My French guide, Fred, got me there and back, safe and sound. Two classmates from Great Britain, Julia and Steve, led by their Italian guide, Alberto, made the trip with me. We had awesome visibility, and the weather was very kind to us.
Posted Sep 14, 2002 5:56 am

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