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Mont Blanc traverse
Trip Report

Mont Blanc traverse

Mont Blanc traverse

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Europe

Object Title: Mont Blanc traverse

Date Climbed/Hiked: Jun 20, 2005

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Summer


Page By: schmid_th

Created/Edited: Nov 9, 2006 / Nov 16, 2006

Object ID: 242765

Hits: 9077 

Page Score: 84.27%  - 18 Votes 

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Climbing week from 15.07.05 - 22.07.05 in the Dauphiné and Mont Blanc range

Barre des Écrins
Barre des Écrins
Roche Faurio
Roche Faurio
Barre des Écrins
View from the summit of Roche Faurio

After 1 week of climbing in the Dolomites with my wife I went with 2 friends to the Dauphiné Alps. After climbing Roche Faurio, Dôme de Neige and Barre des Écrins we drove to Chamonix. This wasn´t so easy because of the Tour de France many roads were closed (for example the Col du Galibier). We arrived in Chamonix in the afternoon of the 15/07/2005.

Refuge Cosmique

Auguille du Midi on the way to Refuge Cosmique
Aiguille du Midi while descending to Refuge Cosmique

Evening view from Refuge Cosmique
Evening light from Refuge Cosmique
View from Refuge Cosmique
View from the hut to Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc from Refuge Cosmique
View to Mont Blanc

As the weather forecast said that it will be perfect weather for the next 2 days we decided to make the Mont Blanc traverse.
We took the cablecar to the Aiguille du Midi. Then we descended to Refuge Cosmique.

Mont Blanc traverse

Aiguille di Midi from Mont Maudit
Sunrise before Mont Maudit

Matterhorn + Grandes Jorasses: View from Mont Maudit
A great morning view
View from the top of Mont Blanc
summit view

User Profile Image
summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur

We slept in the Refuge Cosmique (3.600 m) and started in the night at 1:30 after a very good breakfast. The way to Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit is really steep but as there was enough snow that it wasn´t to delicate.
At the Mont Maudit there is a scarp of 60°. There it was a accumulation - and climbers who could not wait and were reckless! Idiots! There was icefall and a piece of ice hit my nose. It was bleeding but by the cold weather after a few minutes I didn´t feel the pain anymore. Before reaching Mont Maudit we experienced a great sunrise with the Matterhorn and Weisshorn in the background. And then we saw the Mont Blanc - and after some more hours we were on the top! What a great view: Grand Jorasses, Monte Rosa, Matterhorn, Dauphiné Alps, Gran Paradiso - a perfect dream!!! At the summit at 16/07/05! Then we crossed to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. This way was blank ice and quite delicate. Then we went back to the top of Mont Blanc - and we were alone! After enjoying the sight we descended the Bosses ridge to Dome de Goûter.

Panorama - Mont Blanc seen from Dome du Goûter

After a night in the Goûter hut we descended the rest.
The hut was completely full with people laying on the floor, on the tables and on the chairs. But as I was injured with my nose I got a bed. When the Mont Blanc climbers stood up at 1:00 I had all place in the world and could sleep until the morning! Great feeling! When we descended we had to cross the dangerous Grand Couloir. In the Grand Couloir we had much luck as a stone flew half a meter next to us into the depth. A hit of this stone may have been deadly... Thanks God!

Then we made a relaxing day in Chamonix and slept one night in Argentière. We enjoyed a great meal and a few bottles of delicious french wine!
On Sunday we drove back to Germany, absolutely happy and satisfied and dreaming of further climbs in the wonderful Alps!

It was a really long tour - but one of the greatest I ever made!


Mont Blanc de CourmayeurMatterhorn + Grandes Jorasses: View from Mont MauditMont Blanc de CourmayeurHuge cornice at Bosses ridgeMont MauditAuguille du Midi on the way to Refuge CosmiqueMont Blanc
Top of Mont Blanc de CourmayeurMont Blanc de CourmayeurSunrise from Mont MauditAiguille de BionnassayAiguille di Midi from Mont MauditMont BlancMont Blanc
[ View Gallery - 25 More Images ]


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Viewing: 1-8 of 8    

desainmeInteresting Report


Voted 10/10

You had some great vistas and sunrise scenes. I guess Mont Maudit lived up to its name- with the ice and all. Your text is well supported with good pictures.
Posted Nov 9, 2006 3:32 pm

schmid_thRe: Interesting Report


Hasn't voted

Thanks, John.
Mont Maudit is a great mountain! Not the highest but with great routes and a great view - to the highest, to Mont Blanc!
Posted Nov 9, 2006 3:36 pm

turistoalpinistaAs you could...


Voted 10/10

As you could read in my TR I was on the summit 2 days before you...Weather was perfect, wasn't it? When we were on Gran Paradiso(11/7/2005), the weather was great too...so, it's 6 days of perfect weather(maybe only 13th July was worse, but still many climbers reached the summit...).We were really lucky with the weather...(by the way, the conditions were perfect too).
Posted Nov 9, 2006 4:19 pm

schmid_thRe: As you could...


Hasn't voted

Really funny - maybe will meet at another Alps summit! ;-)

Yes, it was really perfect! Sometimes we need some luck...

Posted Nov 10, 2006 6:44 pm

Sebastian HammGood Report!

Sebastian Hamm

Voted 10/10

Nice TR. Nice pictures. You have to guide me up ti there next summer! Sebastian
Posted Nov 9, 2006 4:32 pm

schmid_thRe: Good Report!


Hasn't voted

Thanks for the compliment!
I lead you to some other summits next year! ;-)
Posted Nov 10, 2006 6:44 pm

stesteGood job


Voted 10/10

and a lot of nice photos.
Posted Nov 16, 2006 9:21 pm

schmid_thRe: Good job


Hasn't voted

Thanks! Your image gallery is also beautiful! I voted some of them...
Posted Nov 20, 2006 7:47 am

Viewing: 1-8 of 8