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scot'teryxRoute Climbed: Coleman/Deming Date Climbed: June 23, 2002  Sucess!


Left TH on Saturday morning and reached camp pretty quickly as it is only about 3 miles. Lower part of coleman is strating to break up, with small breaks that are revealing larger crevasses.

Left camp (7200') @ 3am and reached the saddle (9000') around 445am. Up until that point the weather was fine, but the Lenticular we saw the night before was a good warning to what was coming. Low visibility plagued us all the way to the summit, with 2 small 1 minute windows that let us see the Roman Wall to our left as we ascended the route to the summit. With 3 rope teams of 4 we were able to safely wand the route. Many teams turned around on the Coleman side, but we saw many from the Easton side reach the summit the same time we did. No views at all from the summit, with only a few 30 second sunbreaks. Reached the summit at 720am. Left 15 minutes later and reached the saddle quite quickly only to find better visibility. Once we got lower on the Coleman Glacier, the summit opened up quite a bit - so many others must have had a better summit view thatn we did.
Posted Jun 24, 2002 7:54 pm

Peak FreakRoute Climbed: Coleman - Upper Deming Date Climbed: June1, 2002  Sucess!

Peak Freak

Very different conditions from my first attempt in Aug 2001. This time, snow covered the entire Heliotrope Ridge trail to the base of the glacier, whereas in August we were hiking up to camp on dirt. Despite the fact that we had to park a couple of miles from the trailhead, the hike in was substantially easier! (being fitter didn't hurt) Unlike last time, we really lucked out on the weather. I led, and found route finding easy and the terrain spectacular. Wish I had taken more photos of the crevasses on the way up. The snow was really hard on that last steep bit by the Roman Wall. Not technically demanding, but a bit of a grunt (was feeling the lack of sleep, & perhaps the altitude too). Once on top, we un-roped, ditched our packs, and quickly continued to the little bump that is the true summit. Due to the gloriously sunny weather & my less than kick-ass pace that day, we encountered soft snow on the last bit down to camp. Really envied the skiers. Once packed up and heading out, believe it or not, navigational skills became key on the hike from camp to the trailhead. Put the GPS & compass to good use & it paid off. Thanks to Kyle & Ryan for a great adventure.
Posted Jun 18, 2002 9:38 pm

leejamsRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: june 16 2002  Sucess!


Got a very early start around 1 a.m. and it paid off. Woke up to low cloud deck around 6,000 ft elevation below our high camp, stars and a sliver of moon above. Roped up and ready to go and snow was just cold enough for crampons. However, it was a nice warm night probably near 35-40. Crevasses were few and far between and the team ahead was doing an excellent job of route finding and wanding. Nice steady pace brought us to the caldera for a well deserved break before hitting the roman wall. On the wall the snow had turned to real hard ice as the sun was starting to pop up on the other side of the mountain. Half way up the wall I noticed on the ridge to the west the huge sunrise shadow of the mountain I was standing on, very impressive thing to see. cruised on up the wall and found ourselves on the huge summit plateau and seemed like I should have lugged up a football? Headed on over to the summit bump for basking in glory and shooting photo's. Heading down was pretty straightforward and then almost in camp 6,300 elevation started to hit softer snow and then realized getting up for an early start was worth the effort. And excellent weekend and climb. (except for the snowmobiles on this route.>?&()&*&^T#$$#&$
Posted Jun 17, 2002 9:26 pm

Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: June 1984  Sucess!

Bob Bolton

The hike into Schreibers Meadow was all on snow. We camped on deep snow near the base of Railroad Grade. Started quite early, but the other rope team was very slow. Finally two of them went back while the 3rd roped in with us and we continued. Duane got sick at Sherman Crater from the sulphur fumes. We reached the summit without the need for crampons. On the summit I changed film, and it wasn't until several weeks later on a backpacking trip that I realized the film I inserted on Mt. Baker didn't catch the take-up sprocket. I hate it when that happens! Descended and packed out to the cars in an uneventful manner.
Posted Apr 5, 2001 9:56 pm

durocherRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: June 26, 2000  Sucess!


climbed with Joerg Zimmermann
Posted Apr 2, 2001 10:33 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Coleman - Upper Deming Glacier route Date Climbed: mid-June, 1999  Sucess!


Kevin LaFleur and I climbed the Coleman - Upper Deming Glacier route on Mt Baker in mid-June, 1999. The road to the trailhead was still partially snowed in, so we parked the car at 3,400 ft and began our ascent at 5:45pm with about a mile of road walking. There was a lot of snow obscuring the "Heliotrope Trail," and the footsteps of previous parties led in various random directions. This made routefinding very difficult. Somehow, after a couple hours of meandering through the woods, we arrived at a spot near the base of the Coleman Glacier and set up camp for the night.

After a short sleep, we awoke at 3:33am to a clear pre-dawn sky. The valleys below were blanketed with a thick fog that slowly rose throughout the day and transformed into billowy cumulus clouds. Kevin and I put on our gear, collapsed the tent, and started up the mountain. After a few minutes we reached the Coleman Glacier and roped up. We weaved around several menacing crevasses and made our way to the saddle between the summit of Baker and Colfax Peak. We then headed up the summit ridge on easy snow, reaching the summit at 8:30am. After snapping a few photos, we headed down.
Posted Mar 18, 2001 5:43 pm

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