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Mount Clarence King Climber's Log

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cabSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2014

cab

After a morning climb of Mt. Cotter, we went back to camp in Gardiner Basin, packed up, then hiked to the saddle south of CK. Climbed up the face to Secor's jam crack, then up to the summit. We found the jam crack / squeeze chimney to be the crux. The summit block was tough too, but we were able to throw a rope over the block once one person got onto the south block. There was an existing sling on the summit block above the flake that you first climb to access the south block. This peak is no joke!
Posted Sep 2, 2014 2:35 pm

haishanregular route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2013

haishan

Summit moves trickier and headier than expected! And, we couldn't find a class 4 route to the summit blocks... a few sections of mandatory 5th. Fun climbing though!
Posted Sep 11, 2013 12:37 pm

Ol WalsherKing Spur  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2013

Ol Walsher

Been wanting this one for a while. Awesome summit block!
Posted Jul 27, 2013 1:30 am

Daria2nd times a charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2012

Daria

Dayhiked with Rick Kent. After previous bailout many years ago with Sean (bailout from thunderstorm). What a GREAT summit block, FUN and intimidating!
Posted Sep 22, 2012 3:08 pm

seano4th time's the charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2012

seano

Finally. Now that Dragon Pass is legal, the approach is much more reasonable. The summit move is intimidating, but not hard. Trip report.
Posted Sep 2, 2012 6:46 pm

UteZRe: Spectacular
Msg to raydoubleu: Unfortunately I have no e-mail to reply to directly but either way:
Wow! Thank you so much for your e-mail.

I wish it was mine as it had many family/riends pictures on it.
(And our summit pic as well ;-) )
Unfortunately mine was a Canon.

Hope you had a great trip up Mt Clarence King.
Posted Jul 23, 2012 1:00 am

bc44caesarSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2011

bc44caesar

Climbed from Sixty Lakes Basin. The ledge you traverse to get to the saddle was pretty cool. I did not find a 4th class way up the face (too far to the left), so I jammed up a crack or two. The move from the lower block to the summit is intimidating, but easy enough once you commit to the flop! Downclimbing I found the chimney, but did not go down the jam crack Secor mentions (it's more of a corner really). I stayed on the ridge proper, downclimbing an exposed fist/offwidth crack which looked reasonable from above. The route photo posted here (w/ a yellow line) shows the best route and keeps difficulties at 4th class up until the summit I think.
Posted Sep 10, 2011 8:16 pm

Vitaliy M.South face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011

Vitaliy M.

Very original summit block.Got this guy on a 2 day trip through Onion valley. Got Mt. Gardiner too.
Posted Jul 26, 2011 3:07 pm

mrchad9South Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011

mrchad9

Up from Sixty Lakes Basin, nice climb up to the south face with Vitaliy M. and Max. Enjoyed the moves onto the south summit block and the final jump to the top was exhilarating.
Posted Jul 26, 2011 2:46 am

sierratrekkinSouth Face...
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2010

sierratrekkin

Climbed Mount Clarence King along with Mount Cotter on a five day trip into the Sixty Lakes Basin/Rae Lakes area, July, 2010...
Posted Jul 19, 2010 7:44 pm

RomainSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2010

Romain

Great climb with most of the elevation gain achieved on snow (some painful postholing). The summit block is fun.
Posted Jun 6, 2010 3:48 am

granjeroSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007

granjero

Awesome climb, super fun moves at the top!
Posted Mar 3, 2010 9:06 pm

Desert SolitaireRe: Spectacular

Desert Solitaire

Hi UteZ,

Unfortunately, I didn't find your camera in the area. I cleaned out all the old slings on the rappel stations while downclimbing, but still no camera. Hope it turns up before the winter snows kick in!
Posted Oct 2, 2009 11:35 am

Desert SolitaireSolo Kings Spur Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2009

Desert Solitaire

Camped below at 60 Lakes and started the day on Clarence King. The summit blocks were fun and not scary at all. Sadly, there was no summit register on top, even after searching for 30 minutes around the whole vicinity of the summit. To avoid the 5.4 jam crack, there's also a cool bouldery face move to gain the South block that goes at 5.5 face. The exposure isn't extreme (about 10-15 ft), and its more fun than the crack.
Posted Oct 2, 2009 11:34 am

UteZSpectacular  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009
Fun climb!
The hike through Mosquito county was less exciting, but worth the while.
Unfortunately my camera decided to stay at the top, below and over from the bottom of the rappel. Should you head up there, could you keep an eye out for it??? It's in a black soft sunglass pouch. And maybe sent the me the chip inside. I do care about the camera as well, as I now have to return to my ancient film camera.
If you're even contemplating going up, stop hesitating. It's worth the trip!!!
Cheers
Posted Jul 21, 2009 1:35 pm

kevin trieuexciting!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2008

kevin trieu

technically not difficult but sure was exciting! The lack of a bolt on the top of the summit block probably deter a lot of folks from attempting it.
Posted Sep 2, 2008 3:19 pm

leftySouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2007

lefty

Part of an SCMA trip. We were only the third party of the year to summit. Great fun negotiating the summit block
Posted Sep 14, 2007 9:24 pm

kovarpaNortheast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006

kovarpa

FA with Misha over two days. Lot of fun. Secor's beta on East ridge is a major sandbag - at least the portion from the plateau to the summit. See Misha's NE ridge route page for more info.
Posted Sep 25, 2006 4:46 am

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2005  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

My second time up there, and I still have no idea where the class 4 route is up to the base of the summit block. Glad we brought the short rope this time. But dang, that summit block is cool! It's intimidating, but it turns out to be much easier than it looks--and actually easier to downclimb (both the final move, and the awkward 5.4 crack) than it is to ascend. Perfect views. Dayhike from Onion Valley.
Posted Oct 28, 2005 1:07 am

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: south face  Sucess!

tdoughty

interesting summit block.
Posted Oct 16, 2005 12:33 pm

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