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Matthew HollimanNW Face/Arete (ascent) / NE Face (descent)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006

Matthew Holliman

Dayhike out of Yosemite Valley, a somewhat ill-conceived warm-up for Mt. Florence the next day. This peak has been on my to-do list for a while now, since it stands out from so many vantage points in Yosemite, but its reputation for being a difficult climb put me off for quite a while. It was worth the wait.

Scenic approach out of the valley, then some really bad brush and a boring hike through the forest. I looked around a bunch but couldn't figure out how to get onto the arete (later, Bob told me I needed to climb pretty high in the gully before moving onto it), so I climbed the face instead--this was much easier, with some fun, exposed 4th class (maybe a move or two of easy 5th in places), before I found a good exit onto the arete near where its angle suddenly decreases on the final part of the summit ridge. Some more scrambling with exhilarating exposure led up to the summit.

The SE Ridge looked kind of tough, and since I'd burned a lot of time both on the bushwhacking and trying to figure out how to gain the arete, in the interest of expediency I descended the easy NE Face. (I didn't want to downclimb the way I came up unless I absolutely had to). A couple of class 4ish moves near the top, then class 3 ledges from there, followed by lots of sand down to Obelisk Lake. I didn't have a map for the descent down to Merced Lake, and some cliffs had me worried for a bit, but fortunately everything stayed class 2. The hike back to the valley was very, very long.

I was pretty darned beat for Florence the next day...
Posted Dec 1, 2006 4:46 am

SamanthaNW arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006


Bob Burd provides excellent directions for the approach. Too bad I didn't follow them on the way in! Great climb (but I am not sure I could have done it with a pack on). Kudos to those who daytrip this and do the ridge traverse!
Posted Jul 31, 2006 5:06 pm

Desert SolitaireRoute Climbed: SE Arete Date Climbed: June 17, 2005  Sucess!

Desert Solitaire

Very enjoyable climb. BP in to Grayling lake, and bagged Clark and Gray. The step across was quite a thrill and the summit views were amazing - Yosemite Falls and the back of half dome reared some very teasing moments.
Posted Sep 2, 2005 8:43 pm

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: NW Arete - SE Arete traverse Date Climbed: June 19, 2005  Sucess!
Climbed with Pavel (kovarpa). After doing the approach from Happy Isles via Merced Lake trail on Saturday we bivied on the lower portion of the NW arete overlooking the Clark canyon. One of the most memorable evenings in all the hiking / climbing I've done, spectacular vista and the sunset. Climbed the Arete the next morning. Getting on the upper section is always crux to me and I find it more like class 5. We descended the SE Arete (seems to be easier) and hike down towards Mt Starr King and panorama trail. Made it to the Valley early enough to get a pizza. Yeah!
Posted Jun 25, 2005 11:00 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: NW Arete Date Climbed: June 19, 2005  Sucess!


Very fine trip with Kris with spectacular bivy. Down SE Arete, completing traverse of the mountain. D7's proved to be universal shoes - you can climb neve and carve telemark turns with them...
Posted Jun 21, 2005 1:22 am

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: NW Arete - SE Arete traverse Date Climbed: June 20, 2004  Sucess!
My second attempt and this time succesful! I climbed with Rob and did it in a day from Happy Isles. We climbed NW Arete and down climbed SE Arete thus completing the traverse. 2 for the price of 1! :)

Unforgetable climb, this peak is pretty amazing. I'll try to post the trip report soon.
Posted Jun 21, 2004 11:39 pm

Dave DinnellRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: August 1987  Sucess!

Dave Dinnell

Climbed with friend Matt and five ten year olds from a summer camp. Awesome peak and awesome kids!
Posted Jan 10, 2004 12:18 am

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: NW Arete Date Climbed: August 24, 2003
I did it as a solo day hike. Took longer than I expected, 18 hrs. car to car from Curry Village. The ridge is impressive and somewhat intimidating.

I followed the arete, but got stuck when I got to the upper part. I decided to traverse to the right and try to climb above the saddle between Gendarme Robert and the face. I followed small ledges and cracks, but whichever way I went I would get stuck at a point where it seemed to be to risky to solo it considering my limited experience and remote location. So being probably no more than 50 feet below the summit ridge and after over an hour of trying I chickened out and turned around. The mountain will still be there.

Got myself into a 'bushwhacking hell' on the way down.
Posted Aug 27, 2003 2:10 am

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: NW Face/NW Arete Date Climbed: Nov 1, 2002  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Warren Storkman apparently did this dayhike from Happy Isles in 12hrs back in the 70's. So I gave it a go, but came in at 12.5hrs. But what a fine hike - who would have thought November weather could be so nice? Trip Report.
Posted Nov 4, 2002 3:55 pm

Dave DalyRoute Climbed: NW Arete Date Climbed: June 1995  Sucess!

Dave Daly

Having only climbed for just 2 years before going up Mt. Clark (1995), this was a hallmark ascent for things to come. My love for backcountry climbing blossomed upon taking the new challenges Clark offered. Nice exposure and casual technical climbing. I'll never forget the experience!
Posted Aug 3, 2002 9:53 am

HikeMonkeyRoute Climbed: NW Arete Date Climbed: June 23, 2000  Sucess!


Luckily I was only "nearly petrified" so I was able to reach the summit anyway.
Posted Jun 20, 2002 8:48 am

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: NW Arete Date Climbed: June 23, 2000  Sucess!

Bob Burd

We climbed Mt. Starr King in the morning, then hauled our butts over to Mt. Clark. It was a long haul. We were exhausted when we reached the arete, so we napped for a while, then climbed late in the afternoon. I thought it was exhilarating. We bivied on the west side of the arete near the base, which was quite nice, then hiked out the next morning. Trip report
Posted Aug 29, 2001 10:25 pm

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