mrchad9 - Jun 18, 2013 4:46 pm Date Climbed: May 18, 2013
Nice dayhike
Nice afternoon up the ridge on the south straight up to the summit. Good scrambling as you get near the summit.
Vitaliy M. - May 27, 2013 1:18 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2013
SE Face
4 hours car to car via SE Face. Chimney is dry and majority of snow higher is easily avoided. Cool climb for a solo.
jscheingross - May 23, 2013 2:32 am Date Climbed: May 19, 2013
SE Face
My first time on this route and it was awesome. I wanted to add a few notes with info on current conditions and general beta that I found hard to find before the climb.
1. Current conditions:
The route, approach, and descent are all currently snow free, we brought crampons and ice axes, but never needed them (note this is an exceptionally low snow year, so in future years, I imagine there could still be a lot of snow on the route in May). The first pitch had some small frozen icicles on it, but was more or less dry. There was some running water/melting snow in a few places on the scramble up the ridge, and we were able to squeeze out an extra liter of water from one of these small running trickles.
2. More beta (especially for those who want to pitch it out)
We were slow on this route (19.5 hours car to car) because we stopped to pitch a lot of it out. The starting section can be done in 2 pitches (1 pitch for the 5.4 chimney to start, 1 pitch for the class 4, with some scrambling in between). Note with a 60 m rope, we tried (and failed) to link the 5.4 chimney and class 4 chimney in two pitches, and wound up doing an extra pitch. After the top of the class 4 chimney, the route is easy class 3 scrambling (maybe class 3+ in a few places) all the way up just before the ridge. The last section to the ridge (1 pitch) is a bit exposed. To descend from the summit, continue west along the ridge another ~100', and then downclimb a class 3/4 section to the gully which takes you all the way down the south slope (never more than class 3 downclimbing, mostly just talus hopping and scree).
Deb - Apr 28, 2013 10:06 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013
SE Couloir Ascent
Would've been a better snow climb with crampons but then I wouldn't had the opportunity (or lack of option) to climb the running waterfall. :/ Love the Class 3 fun-ness to the summit with my buddies Laura and Tom.
bighornmonkey - Jun 25, 2012 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012
Hoped for the SE Face, but snow melt into the crack forced us onto the South Slope. Still an interesting climb with some Class 3+ moves on the crest to spice things up a bit. The snow was a whole lot better than the day before on Goode.
sardude - Jan 13, 2012 12:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2008
Tom & I
Tom & I climbed the SE Face topped out w/ a storm below us.
Got a late start with Cliff. Short approach, really fun climbing, excellent knife edge traverse near the summit. Blew out my back and gashed my leg on the descent.
Daria - Aug 15, 2010 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
SE face
Great route-sustained 3rd/4th class, solid rock. Impressive, fun knife edge traverse.
Great climb! Up and down in fiveish hours solo with great rock the whole way up! Summit had an outstanding view. Descent down the SE/E chutes, but I think the SW stuff down to Loch Leven would be easier.
A nice solo half-day from North Lake. The chimney isn't too bad, and the rest of the route is mostly nice class 3 cruising. Awesome short knife-edge on the ridge.
Climbed/skied the north couloir May 2005. Fun moves to summit in ski boots!
Climbed SE face September 2009
Bill562 - Aug 16, 2009 11:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2009
South Slopes
Climbed with Dave Gonzalez
Matt Worster - Aug 11, 2009 1:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
SE Face
It's always a classic if it's better than you expect! Great day, bigger than I thought. A routefinding error made it a bit longer, and that last ridge was more than I expected, but fun when it was done. Great day, great scrambing parter who remained game throughout the day.
Samantha - Aug 4, 2009 8:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009
SE Face
Nice climb. Another 5.4 lead for me with my new light alpine rope. Would have been more fun if my partner wasn't sick. Still hate the south slope descent--endless scree and sand on granite yuck.
up piute pass, across humphreys basin, and up the ridge - I scrambled up the left side of the ridge, but cody could not make it - the ridge was great, then a bit of a slog up top, followed by a challenging summit problem - unfortunately, I had to return to the west ridge to pick up cody, but some of the more direct chutes looked like good decent routes - overall, a real nice climb
mrchad9 - Jun 18, 2013 4:46 pm Date Climbed: May 18, 2013
Nice dayhikeNice afternoon up the ridge on the south straight up to the summit. Good scrambling as you get near the summit.
Vitaliy M. - May 27, 2013 1:18 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2013
SE Face4 hours car to car via SE Face. Chimney is dry and majority of snow higher is easily avoided. Cool climb for a solo.
jscheingross - May 23, 2013 2:32 am Date Climbed: May 19, 2013
SE FaceMy first time on this route and it was awesome. I wanted to add a few notes with info on current conditions and general beta that I found hard to find before the climb.
1. Current conditions:
The route, approach, and descent are all currently snow free, we brought crampons and ice axes, but never needed them (note this is an exceptionally low snow year, so in future years, I imagine there could still be a lot of snow on the route in May). The first pitch had some small frozen icicles on it, but was more or less dry. There was some running water/melting snow in a few places on the scramble up the ridge, and we were able to squeeze out an extra liter of water from one of these small running trickles.
2. More beta (especially for those who want to pitch it out)
We were slow on this route (19.5 hours car to car) because we stopped to pitch a lot of it out. The starting section can be done in 2 pitches (1 pitch for the 5.4 chimney to start, 1 pitch for the class 4, with some scrambling in between). Note with a 60 m rope, we tried (and failed) to link the 5.4 chimney and class 4 chimney in two pitches, and wound up doing an extra pitch. After the top of the class 4 chimney, the route is easy class 3 scrambling (maybe class 3+ in a few places) all the way up just before the ridge. The last section to the ridge (1 pitch) is a bit exposed. To descend from the summit, continue west along the ridge another ~100', and then downclimb a class 3/4 section to the gully which takes you all the way down the south slope (never more than class 3 downclimbing, mostly just talus hopping and scree).
Deb - Apr 28, 2013 10:06 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013
SE Couloir AscentWould've been a better snow climb with crampons but then I wouldn't had the opportunity (or lack of option) to climb the running waterfall. :/ Love the Class 3 fun-ness to the summit with my buddies Laura and Tom.
bighornmonkey - Jun 25, 2012 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012
SE faceFun climb with really short approach.
96avs01 - May 14, 2012 10:44 pm
Consolation PrizeHoped for the SE Face, but snow melt into the crack forced us onto the South Slope. Still an interesting climb with some Class 3+ moves on the crest to spice things up a bit. The snow was a whole lot better than the day before on Goode.
sardude - Jan 13, 2012 12:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2008
Tom & ITom & I climbed the SE Face topped out w/ a storm below us.
thexcat - Sep 6, 2011 6:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011
SE faceGot a late start with Cliff. Short approach, really fun climbing, excellent knife edge traverse near the summit. Blew out my back and gashed my leg on the descent.
Daria - Aug 15, 2010 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
SE faceGreat route-sustained 3rd/4th class, solid rock. Impressive, fun knife edge traverse.
A-Lex - Nov 24, 2009 12:33 pm
SE FaceGreat climb! Up and down in fiveish hours solo with great rock the whole way up! Summit had an outstanding view. Descent down the SE/E chutes, but I think the SW stuff down to Loch Leven would be easier.
seano - Sep 28, 2009 5:11 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2009
SE faceA nice solo half-day from North Lake. The chimney isn't too bad, and the rest of the route is mostly nice class 3 cruising. Awesome short knife-edge on the ridge.
WML - Sep 14, 2009 11:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Birdman Buttress Variation of SE FaceFun route, great time...awesome solo!
granjero - Sep 10, 2009 7:04 pm
Two ways!Climbed/skied the north couloir May 2005. Fun moves to summit in ski boots!
Climbed SE face September 2009
Bill562 - Aug 16, 2009 11:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2009
South SlopesClimbed with Dave Gonzalez
Matt Worster - Aug 11, 2009 1:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
SE FaceIt's always a classic if it's better than you expect! Great day, bigger than I thought. A routefinding error made it a bit longer, and that last ridge was more than I expected, but fun when it was done. Great day, great scrambing parter who remained game throughout the day.
Samantha - Aug 4, 2009 8:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009
SE FaceNice climb. Another 5.4 lead for me with my new light alpine rope. Would have been more fun if my partner wasn't sick. Still hate the south slope descent--endless scree and sand on granite yuck.
bcd - Apr 13, 2009 6:17 pm Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2009
North Couloirup and down the north couloir. All pow, all day!
Noondueler - Feb 3, 2009 2:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2000
Did north summitFrom Loch Leven. Way windy and cold so I passed on the main summit.
paisajeroamericano - Oct 21, 2008 2:33 pm
great climbup piute pass, across humphreys basin, and up the ridge - I scrambled up the left side of the ridge, but cody could not make it - the ridge was great, then a bit of a slog up top, followed by a challenging summit problem - unfortunately, I had to return to the west ridge to pick up cody, but some of the more direct chutes looked like good decent routes - overall, a real nice climb
tdoughty - Sep 22, 2008 6:43 pm Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008
Yeah Baby!JB & I climbed the SE Face.