Route Climbed: South Face (ascent) / SW Ridge (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2005
Had intended to traverse from Temple Crag, but bailed on that idea when it looked like it was going to take several hours. Wishy-washiness and a degree of guilt on my part for wussing out led me to come over here to climb Gayley anyway once I'd descended Temple Crag's SE Face.
Secor comments about the south side that it was descended by Pete Starr in about 1930, and is class 3. I headed up the first weakness on the south face that I could find... most of the way stayed class 3-4, but the final steep headwall was about 5.6 or so (there were no easier options around amongst the cliffs there--and trust me that I spent plenty of time looking). I was darned glad I'd brought my rock shoes, as I had no prayer of climbing that thing without them. Spicy but fun.
No functional pen in the summit register. Descended the much easier SW Ridge; seems like maybe the alleged class 3 south side route heads up west of the summit to meet that ridge, as I saw one or two easier-looking chutes along there. But I don't know.
Briefly toyed with the idea of returning via the South Fork, but some vivid memories of a similar return last year dissuaded me from that plan, and I just headed back over Contact Pass. Took about three hours to return from the summit to my car that way.