Mount Morrison/The Great White Fang Comments
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|Like always, a very informative page.|
|Posted Apr 17, 2002 1:28 pm|
|Dave K||Untitled Comment|
|Mt. Mo is on my short list of peaks to climb. Nice page!|
|Posted Nov 19, 2002 11:00 am|
|Good page. Has anyone ever rock climbed straight up the face to the summit, or is the rock too lose?|
|Posted Aug 18, 2003 3:01 pm|
|Bob Burd||Untitled Comment|
|Yes, it's been done, but no one who's done it has ever recommended it. The rock is grossly loose, and it has been referred to as the "Eiger of the Sierra". Here's what Secor says:|
Northeast Wall and Buttress. IV, 5.7. Fist ascent September 7, 1946, by Charles Wilts and Harry Sutherland. First winter ascent January 22, 1968, by Reggie Donatelli, Alvin McLane, and Brian Bartlett, who wrote in the summit register, "Never again." Ascend the hanging valley north of Mt. Morrison to the toe of the north buttress. begin by climbing the northeast face just left of the north buttress via two prominent chutes. Go up and slightly right over high angle rock for almost 1,000 feet to the crest of the buttress, meeting it at a point where its angle declines abruptly. Follow the crest of the buttress for some distance, passing an outside corner on its left. Climb a prominent red chimney on the right side of the buttress. (This chimney has a 5.8 overhanging chockstone near its top.) Rappel 50 feet down the other side of the chimney to a class 2 talus chute, which leads to the summit.
North Buttress. IV, 5.8, A2. First ascent July 5, 1960, by Jim Wilson, Ron Hayes, and Allen Steck. Start by climbing the northeast wall, then make a 200-foot traverse up and to the right to the base of a crack system on the crest of the north buttress. Ascend directly up the buttress for 500 feet (5.7) to the base of a 60-foot headwall. Climb the wall (5.7, A3) and continue up the crest of the buttress. Pass an outside corner on its left; a prominent red chimney with an overhanging chockstone follows. Rappel from the top of the chockstone down the other side to a class 2 talus slope, which leads to the summit.
North Face. IV, 5.8. First ascent May 28, 1967, by Tom Higgins and Charlie Raymond. Begin by climbing a squat, black rock about 200 feet to the right of the toe of the north buttress. This first pitch is devious and difficult, and the route generally goes straight up, but goes to the right where the black rock turns gray. Traverse down and left (5.8) past a clean, sharp dihedral to a broken area. Continue up broken rock to the base of a large, white rock (shaped like the state of California), which is visible from the hanging valley below. A friction traverse left leads to an exposed corner, and the corner leads to the crest of the north buttress. Continue up the crest of the buttress to a gold-colored chute. This chute leads to a steep headwall, followed by a thin ridge, which leads to the summit. After the first four pitches, the climbing is never more difficult than 5.6.
|Posted Aug 19, 2003 12:41 am|
|This is really what a mountain page should look like, and should contain. Kudos.|
|Posted May 21, 2004 2:02 pm|
|Good looking page.|
|Posted Mar 23, 2005 9:29 pm|
|Death Couloir? Got any interesting stuff about that I may ask?|
|Posted Jan 15, 2007 5:44 am|
|Has anyone climbed the southern ridge from the area of Bright Dot Lake? Any idea of the class involved?|
|Posted Apr 1, 2010 12:13 pm|
|mhengst||Re: Southern Ridge|
Are you aware of any class 2 routes accessible from the western side without hiking back out to Convict? We're going to be camping around the Lake Genevieve area.
|Posted Apr 4, 2010 5:19 pm|