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GeneRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 7, 1997  Sucess!
First 14-er summit in almost 20 years. Fun. Very sociable crowd at Helen Lake. Went "solo", but there were about 50 on the route that day. Had another climber take my summit pic, but he cut me off at the knees. For all anyone can tell from the pic, I'm standing on a chair in my backyard.
Posted Dec 10, 2004 7:51 pm

madclimberRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 8/14/04  Sucess!

madclimber

Took 9 hrs up and 6 hrs down, form LA to summit back in LA in less than 48 hrs!
Posted Dec 2, 2004 3:20 am

flotzillaRoute Climbed: avalanche gulch Date Climbed: july 2004  Sucess!

flotzilla

Outstanding climb. Had a lot of fun.
Posted Dec 1, 2004 4:46 pm

HeyItsBenRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 4th, 2004  Sucess!

HeyItsBen

Awesome conditions, great views of Lassen, crowded on the summit for the 4th of July! A great time.
Posted Nov 10, 2004 4:02 pm

climber21Date Climbed: November 5,6 2004

climber21

Well, it had to be a fast trip, squeezing between my school and the deadline of when my friend visiting from Iowa, Baker, was leaving. We got to the mountain late one night and slept out on the snow with our mats and bags at Bunny Flat. There was a good snow pack of a few feet already there. The next day we went down to the Fifth Season and rented some snow shoes and an ice axe for Baker (i already had one). Then we headed back up and walked up from Bunny Flat up Green Butte Ridge a bit. Then we went down into Avalanche Gulch and were desirous of going up Casaval, but we were slow moving through the snow (sinking up to my knees occasionally with snow shoes; okay, not all of it was a good snow pack yet). We camped out at about 11,500 feet. At 2 AM i was wanting to start for the summit, but my comrade had some altitude sickness, so we rested longer and got up with the sun and then headed down the beautiful mountain. We were off by 10 AM, got home before 5 PM, and got him to his train to leave by 6:30 PM. No summit this time, but a very enjoyable first time on the mountain with a good friend, and i love the snow. =-)
Posted Nov 10, 2004 2:38 am

marcpagani.comRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June, 2002  Sucess!

marcpagani.com

GREAT mountain - not too tough. Careful while glissading down. Just a beautiful route and we had great weather. Marc Pagani, Christina, Rice, Mark Terry, Steve Chamberlin
Posted Nov 4, 2004 4:16 pm

usarock69Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!

usarock69

A great day to be on Mt. Shasta! It was warm enough to have the rocks falling, but other than that, everything including the weather was perfect. Mt. Shasta has gorgeous views and we took plenty of pictures. The Red Banks are nice too, but it confused me a little, I thought I was close to the summit ;-) I hope to be back some day to try a different route.
Posted Nov 3, 2004 7:05 pm

ripper333Route Climbed: avalanche gulch Date Climbed: sept 2002/ july 2004
seem to have a weather omen on this peak. both

attempts....got turned around at red banks. made the

best of it and had a good time despite the weather.
<
Posted Oct 24, 2004 5:12 pm

ChuckORoute Climbed: Hotlum Glacier Date Climbed: July 2004  Sucess!

ChuckO

Great climb. Guided trip with ShastaMountainGuides - earned good reviews. Wonderful glacial features up there.
Posted Oct 13, 2004 8:16 pm

mklassenRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: September 17, 2004  Sucess!
First 14k summit. Thanks to Jaucques at Fifth Season for recommending the Red Bluff traverse between the two layers to the backside 'notch' nearest the Thumb (see amendment by ervan on the AG route page). There is a nice windbreak here to prepare for the exposure that follows. The hike down Avy Gulch to Helen Lake was a real pain. Very little scree to glissade down so a tiring talus descent.
Posted Sep 19, 2004 2:42 pm

stoneman5Route Climbed: Green Butte Date Climbed: April, 2004

stoneman5

Skied about 3000 feet of vertical. Didn't have time to do the whole thing this time. I don't recommend this route, the snow, which was crusty, was all cut up by snomobiles and was fairly hellish.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:40 pm

Chris CobbRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 03, 2004  Sucess!
We did the summit in two days. First day we started about 9:30 in prefectly clear skies and reached camp at Helen Lake by 1. Started hailing and snowing on us right after we made camp and ate. Started out next morning about 4 am under perfect skies again. Went right of the heart and up a gully in Red Banks. Reached the summit by 10 after a half hour stop to melt some snow. Got back down in a hurry, picked up camp and we were off the mountain by 3:30
Posted Aug 25, 2004 12:42 am

Gail JRoute Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 6, 1998  Sucess!

Gail J

My first fourteener that needed axe and crampons. Perfect conditions.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 12:56 pm

olsennRoute Climbed: Clear Creek Date Climbed: 31 July 2004  Sucess!

olsenn

Nice trail to source of clear creek (~8400') where there was still flowing water available. Long scree slope, but traveling as light as I was, I didn't slide back much at all. I did have to use my hands parts of the way. Only a few small snow fields early on- no need at all for ice axe/crampons. There were some big loose rocks-- chance of shin injury or worse. A very different experience from glacial routes, but under-rated for those like me wanting to get to the top with minimal hazard late in the season. Good route for speed attempts- I managed 3 1/2 hr assent from my car, but if acclimatized and even lighter pack an elite climber should be able to manage sub 3 hr. Descent can be done in 1 1/2 hrs by running much of the way.
Posted Aug 2, 2004 9:40 pm

blmcclainRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 23rd July , 2004  Sucess!

blmcclain

Wow! What a wonderful climb. Had great weather, great partners, and much success. Left Helen at 5 am and were perched on the summit at 9:30 am. Snow conditions were perfect! No wind on the summit and temps were quite warm.



Currently, the best chute to use up through the Red Banks is the climber's far left. It's completely snow-covered all the way through. A second group decided to try the climber's far right and got half way through, ran out of snow, and suffered a nerve-racking scramble over the soft rock, which turned 2/3rds of them back.



Quite surprised at the ease of the climb as compared to Tyndall and even the scree approach on Langley. Thanks to Team X-Ray (Marija, Stacie, Mike, and Pavel) for joining us and all the good times and to my climbing partners on Team Infrared (Alan, Matthais, and Brian). You all impressed me and made this one-year wait for this climb well worth it!
Posted Jul 25, 2004 10:17 pm

stacieRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 23, 2004  Sucess!
Great climb, one of Marija's most inspired ideas!. Made the summit at 11:30 after a 5:15 am start from Helen Lake with Mike, Marija and Pavel. Our first time, and we all made it!!! Narrow steep snow held through Red Banks almost to the resting area below Misery Hill, and we made it through before the sun began softening the snow. The summit was clear and not windy, much less cold than expected. Glissading back down after was the best! We glissaded all the way past 50/50 hill, picking up our heavy packs again at Helen Lake. Not crowded, thanks to the excellent planning for midweek by Brian on our co-team of Brian, Brian, Alan, and Matthias, who made the summit by 10 am.
Posted Jul 25, 2004 1:21 am

telesis1Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 18, 2004  Sucess!
Now I never have to go back there again!

So, mgp5000, were you 'the other guy with the bike helmet', or associated with him?
Posted Jul 22, 2004 1:28 am

mgp5000Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 18, 2004  Sucess!

mgp5000

Reached the summit by 8:30 AM after leaving Helen Lake in the wee hours. First to summit that day, as far as we can tell. Weather was deteriorating fast and I'm glad we left for the summit when we did. Snowpack was pretty thin - ice axe and crampons only necessary on the snowfield between Helen Lake and the Red Banks.
Posted Jul 19, 2004 5:26 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: Hotlum Glacier Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

kovarpa

Great route - the best I have done on Shasta so far - very varied (glacier, crevasses, rock (I hate the scree), snow) and you can't beat the fact that you top out exactly on the top and all the AG'ers are left to figure out where you came from. Great company - Vendula, Kris and Rigo.
Posted Jul 15, 2004 10:05 pm

mt_daydreamRoute Climbed: AG Date Climbed: June 29, 2003  Sucess!

mt_daydream

First snow experience for me. Beautiful peak! Best part was the descent -- learnt the basics of self arrest before starting the awesome glissade down!

A great peak for the beginner to get valuable experience on snow.
Posted Jul 15, 2004 4:45 am

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