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Yulia ZiSummited despite the bad weather warning  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2016

Yulia Zi

Four very determined Ukrainians summit Mt.Shasta via a Avalanche Gulch Route.

They promised a crazy wind, but we decided to get at least to Helen Lake and check the weather there. Got soaked under the rain and tried to dry our clothes all night. Due to this the summit of delayed and we started at 6am. The sky was clear despite the weather forecasts.

It was a cold, but clear and sunny day. We all made it to the top safely. One of our friends did have slip and fall on the way down (chimney's area), so watch every step. Proper footwork at all times. Thankfully a friend got away few a few painful bruises only.

Thank you Mt.Shasta. And we will be back soon.
Posted Nov 30, 2016 1:15 am

Erik Beeler1st CA 14'er  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2016

Erik Beeler

15 hours car to car. Great weather - far warmer than expected. Very little snow at the top. I skipped the normal final stretch and free soloed the opposite side. Went 5.6 maybe 5.7 with some crumbling rock. I couple of hikers started to follow me but I chased them off saying I wouldn't be responsible for them.

Was a really fun time.
Posted Oct 21, 2016 5:45 pm

jmizzSki Descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2015


Nice climb up Avy Gulch, perfect conditions. Skied all the way down to Bunny Flat parking lot from base of summit block (which was pure ice), more than 7k! Awesome day.
Posted Oct 2, 2016 3:53 pm

jmizzWest Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2014


First 14er!
Posted Oct 2, 2016 3:50 pm

sierramtngoatSolo Dayhike Traverse from North to South  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2016


It had been a while since I went up Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, so what better way to do it than as a dayhike, traversing all of Shasta? This had been a dream of mine for a very long time. The route is in a different kind of shape than I had remembered, a lot looser on the approach, give yourself some extra time for that. The H-B Ridge is currently exposed all the way to the ramp but no crevasses that I could see; there were open ones 10 years ago when the ridge was not exposed below the ramp, so stay close to the ridge. A couple told me that they had failed to stay on the ridge proper, above the rabbit ears; there is a class 3 scramble if you climb high between the rabbit ears and the ridge. After gaining the rige, stay on the ridge until the headwall where you climb the couloir climbers right; you would then top out on the north summit. Here is my Strava for the climb. It shows the shortcut I use for the first 1000 ft. (saves 30-45 min). https://www.strava.com/activities/660957525

Route Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006 Success!
Climbed with balajisv, dnriley, Dan, and Alex. The conditions were great with clear skies and low wind, but it was a bit on the warm side which made the descent a bit sloppy. The center of the "ramp" was 2" of snow on top of ice, so if you are thinking of glissading the ramp, be careful. Though climbing rope slowed our ascent, it seemed practical in hindsight as one of my partners punched though a snow bridge up to his shoulders, below and right of the bergschrund.

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 14, 2005 Success!
Solo dayhike, nine hours from Bunny Flat. The runnels were pretty deep above Helen Lake which made the climb awkward, but not difficult. There was still snow in the chutes, but none on misery hill.

Route Climbed: Cascade Gulch Date Climbed: June 15, 2003 Success!
Pretty, aesthetic route. Climbed with my buddy Brad under a full moon; we were all alone on the route. Windy as all hell at the Shastina saddle. Crossing the Whitney Glacier was not difficult.

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 28, 2002 Success!
Birthday climb with my Cousin Morgan. We made good time up to the plateau, took a breather, then bagged the summit. Enjoyed a birthday shot of baily's after we got back to Helen Lake.

Route Climbed: Hotlum/Wintun Ridge Date Climbed: July 29, 2001 Success!
Climbed with Maria; we ascended on the right side of the ridge, then crossed over to the Wintun Glacier. The snow was soft, the sun was hot, but the summit was freezing... welcome to Mt. Shasta.

Route Climbed: Helen Lake/Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 9, 2000 Success!
Repeated this route with my buddy Brian as he got sick the first time around and only attended the snow school. It was a lot warmer, but more cloudy... a difficult trade off.

Route Climbed: Helen Lake/Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 9, 2000 Success!
Climbed with SWS and my buddy Brian and a collegue. I was a bit out of shape at the time so the climbing was difficult. Some crazy looking guy with frozen snot stuck to his moustache passed us on his way down and the guide said, "you know, we don't have to end up looking like that guy, are you sure you want to continue?" HELL YES!!!
Posted Aug 2, 2016 9:14 pm

WillthessingerFirst time above 12k  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2016
Up and down in 10 hours solo via Avalanche Gulch from Bunny Flats. Perfect weather on top. I was able to glissade from the base of Misery to Helen Lake which made for a quick descent. For acclimation I was at 11k three weeks before, 12k two weeks before, and walked up to the snow line the day before. I want to try a winter ascent with a guide. When it takes about the same time to slide down on your butt than it takes for people like Ghelfi to get up from Horse Camp, you get real humble.
Posted Jul 20, 2016 11:43 am

SchwartzOnBig Snow Year Ski Descent Winton-Hotlam (twice)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2011


Epic snow year. Normal snow pack, with precip continuing March, April, May and June. By July we were stoked, and so much so that we decided to ski summit. Went with Swiss mountaineer that could make the Matterhorn seem like a gentle rolling hill. Bootkicked to top, Summited an hour before sunset, and had the whole mountain to ourselves to ski down. Excellent conditions, icy chute at top and then nice and wide snowfields, 8000 feet vert!!!
Posted Jul 15, 2016 1:44 am

RedwicRecord-Setting  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2016


Record-setting, not for me but for the crowds. There were hundreds (if not well over one thousand) of people at Bunny Flats, with parking extended 0.5-1.0 miles away from the parking area. I took my chances and happened to arrive at a spot near the sign-in/permit kiosk, just as another car was leaving. Some people were even double-parked! Horse Camp seemingly had hundreds of people, with tent sites scattered throughout the forest. The climb itself was fairly straightforward and well-defined as a result of so many people going up the route every day for probably at least two weeks. The conga line of climbers was a tad annoying to pass by but overall the trek was worth the effort.
Posted Jul 6, 2016 10:06 pm

ljwoodwMy first real mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2012
This was my attempt to confront my fear of traveling on snow head-on. Climbed with a guide and learned a great deal about using crampons and an ice ax. It will probably be the standard by which other mountains are compared for a while
Posted Jul 5, 2016 7:28 pm

GuiltyAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2016


Left a little after 6, from Bunny Flats parking. High winds and storm clouds on top. Summit with perfect timing that it cleared-up,(Blue sky's). Yea! Manny others turn away from the summit, being socked in early morning. I'm sure they would of made it, if they left later for the summit. I guest, this is one time I am glad I slept in! Back to the car a little after 1pm,(7hrs r/t). No crampons, used steps from others and it warmed up later! Another plus. And, still plenty of snow where you can glissade more then half-way down.
Posted Jul 5, 2016 3:46 am

GrennAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2016
Great route. Great weather and great friends!
Posted Jun 14, 2016 5:46 pm

strudolyubovAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 28, 2016


Day trip up Avalanche Gulch route. Cool summit, nice weather, great views.
Posted Jun 9, 2016 7:08 pm

Nick TurturaSmooth Sailing  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 28, 2016

Nick Turtura

West Face via HVBC. Blue bird. Snow from parking lot. No snow shoes needed. Snow on the face was in great shape. Left HVBC at 6:00am. Glissaded from the top of the west face to the bottom (4000'). Have fun.
Posted May 30, 2016 12:31 pm

Larry LavertyAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 18, 2016

Larry Laverty

Warm Spring day. Good number of folks on the mountain, some from Utah, Austria, and throughout N. California. Envied the boarders and skiers. Especially as on the way out, the snow had turned to slush, every step up to the calves or knees. Thanks to Jeff from San Jose for taking outstanding photos. Jeff traveling to the top with his father's vintage ice axe, the axe from their first trip together on the mountain many years ago.
Posted May 19, 2016 8:32 pm

wmollandAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 8, 2016


A windy day forced me to leave the snowboard at Helen Lake. Made the summit no problems without that sail on my back (the same could not be said about most of the skiers who pushed on in the high winds). Beautiful bluebird day and the snowboard from 10.5k back to the car was stellar! It's a long uphill walk, but nothing technically difficult about it.
Posted May 15, 2016 8:20 pm

KevintheclimberAG  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 11, 2015


solo. day trip
Posted Apr 4, 2016 12:15 pm

MalesoreSo close...yet so far away
Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2015


Posted Jan 28, 2016 9:14 pm

CalFinally got it  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2015


Av. Gulch route, good conditions, clear weather, not much wind. Hot as hell after 10am, glad we were down by then. Camped above Helen Lake; would not do that again. Too hot to relax with the sun glaring down. Perhaps Shasta makes a better winter climb during El Nino years. Was 104 when we returned to the base.
Posted Jan 3, 2016 4:04 pm

JoeyrooLong Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2004


Completed in a long day from Bunny Flat up Avalanche Gulch. I would have preferred to have split the climb into two days with a night at Lake Helen, but got overruled. Got to dodge some rocks couple times as they were rolling down the mountain. You can hear the train of people yelling "ROCK!" then having to look up to see where the rocks were falling from. The long glissading sections down brought a big smile on my face.
Posted Oct 21, 2015 7:43 pm

Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2015


Started at approx. 3am, on top by 11-ish(I'm an older, slower, flatlander!). This was my second summit, third attempt. The West Face is a nice moderate snow climb with great glissading, and Hidden Valley basecamp is absolutely gorgeous! I had a private guide from SMG and had a great trip as always...
Posted Sep 23, 2015 10:11 am

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