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Mount Shuksan Climber's Log

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jordansahlsdamn good fun on the chimneys!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006


Was a really fun route, what more can I say!
Posted Aug 9, 2006 5:51 pm

bacrossmanThe Chimneys were good to us  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006


Great Climb, great weather. I was suprised that we didnt run into more bare ice this late in the season.
Posted Aug 9, 2006 12:51 am

mrwsierraSulphide Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2006


Magnificent place, great weather, great summit, climbed with great friends. Awesome. By the way, the base camp location is magnificent and more than worth the trip alone.
Posted Aug 8, 2006 4:56 pm

thundercloudFisher Chimneys  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006


What a difference a year makes! Last year, at virtually the same time of year, the route was much easier to manage...just a sniff of snow prior to the top of the Chimneys, and bucket steps up Winnie's Slide and Hells Hwy. This year, snow at the trailhead and the road is currently closed 1/2 mile and 500 feet down from the trailhead, so there was bonus work to do. Lots of snow covering the boulder/scree field prior to the start of the Chimneys, and getting off the snow onto the rock via moat is a little spicey. Beyond that, chimneys are dry, glaciers in good shape, steep sections seemed a bit steeper this year with the heaps of snow up there. Snow good and firm early, but a bit mixed later in the day with potential to blow out tires, so set your pro, be careful, and have fun. Great route, and good climbing with Cluck.
Posted Jul 18, 2006 10:39 pm

cluckFisher Chimneys  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006


A few notes on route conditions. Big snow year had Lake Ann still frozen and lots of snow on approach. Chimneys dry but lots of problem solving for entrances via large moats. Winnie's hard snow and steep enough to warrant a rope and pickets. Pitch up to Upper Curtis had some ice (we place a couple screws) but wasn't super steep. Upper Curtis cracks still mostly closed. Highway to Hell was moderate. Sulphide closed. We climbed SE ridge, downclimbed central South gulley (dry). A very, very long day.
Posted Jul 18, 2006 2:59 am

alpine climberSulphide glacier
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006

alpine climber

Helped lead a group of kids from WWU on the Outdoor Center's trip. We got turned back Sunday due to a down pour of rain. Beautiful sunset though from high camp on Saturday.
Posted Jun 6, 2006 3:32 pm

NormanShuksan NF
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2005


My Son and I finally did the North Face using parts of three days. Please take a look at the NF Route description. I hope summitposters will add some info or give the route a try. Super route.
Posted May 5, 2006 12:59 am

km_donovanSulphide Glacier Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2002


A great day with friends. Spectacular weather but a bit windy on the summit.
Posted Apr 16, 2006 2:47 am

ericdSulphide Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2003


Possible in a day, took a little longer due to an accident. Top pyramid was hard ice, saw my friend whiz by me airborn, then was pulled 300' in self arrest position to ease/break his fall. Banged up bad. Helicopter came 2 hrs later. A winter wonderland.
Posted Mar 28, 2006 10:21 pm

FuggedabouditSulphide Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2003


My first Summit! Great time with a great group. Rock pyramid is a great way to finish, though not much fun in Scarpa Invernos!
Posted Mar 26, 2006 10:29 pm

Snidely WhiplashSulphide Glacier Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1984

Snidely Whiplash

What a climb! My first Cascade summit. Downclimbing that summit gully was pretty scary.
Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:10 pm

missadventureRoute Climbed: sulphide glacier Date Climbed: july 12 2001  Sucess!


we did this route in one day from the parking lot. it was a hella fun route, especially the rock bit at the summit pinnacle
Posted Feb 8, 2006 11:12 pm

setrentRoute Climbed: Sulphide Date Climbed: 17 Feb, 2005  Sucess!
Sixteen hours car to car on skis. The snow lower down was crusty and hard to ski, but the pyramid gully made for great cramponing. A great day. Climbed the NF on 30 May 08. A great route, would recommend it to anyone. Climbed the North Face spring 2008. Another asthetic climb up the beautiful peak.
Posted Dec 22, 2005 8:40 pm

mandrakeRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2004  Sucess!


Terrific weather & group. Camped up at the high camp with awesome 360-degree views.
Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:38 pm

slowpokeRoute Climbed: Sulphide Date Climbed: September 11, 2005  Sucess!


Cloudy at camp, awoke to a few inches of new snow which melted off by mid-day. Summit pyramid was wet. Clouds broke when we reached the summit to give us some views.
Posted Sep 13, 2005 10:22 am

diceyRoute Climbed: sulfide Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!
new snow on summit pyramid, so we climbed the gully up the face
Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:03 pm

thundercloudRoute Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: July 23, 2005  Sucess!


Climbed with good group of Mazamas, party of 6. Finding the start of the chimneys is a little tricky in darkness and low clouds, even for those that have climbed the route before. Snow and crevasse bridges in good shape. Finished the pyramid doing the SE Rib/Ridge (simul-climb) which is much more fun and solid than the standard central gully. A few pieces of smallish rock pro were used on this portion, and our group used the four pickets we carried for the steeper pitches of the glacier route. Completed ascent in under 8 hours, and descent under 7 hours, at leisurely and secure pace. Good transition management essential. Used brain bucket the entire day, and yes it came in handy on the descent thru the chimneys. Excellent route, great climb day above the clouds.
Posted Jul 31, 2005 2:56 pm

amochkaRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: July 24, 2005  Sucess!


Wow, what a climb! Hike up to base camp from end of Shannon Creek camp road was a slog, over steep exposed roots and a lot of plant overgrowth. Great hike once out of the forest. Got up to base camp in afternoon, weather holding, but a lot of cloud cover obscuring the summit.

Started up the glacier at 6:30 am, which we figured out later was much too late. This was a busy place, with a lot of large groups heading up to the summit. Nice trip up the glacier...wanded the route in case of white out later.

Base of gulley on summit pyramid was a traffice jam of people heading up and down. Waiting for a large team to all rappel down put us back two hours. Gulley treacherous in places due to soft very steep snow, wet rocks, loose crap being dislodged from above, etc. I had a few 'high tone' moments in the gulley and pushed ahead despite being a bit wigged about it. Made the summit at 3 pm. Clouds swirled around and looked to be creating a potential white out..

Thankfully, another group that summited after us agreed that a double rappel would be the fastest way to get all the people off the summit, so we combined ropes, and descended the gulley with two long rappels as opposed to four.

Great descent......clouds disappeared and then one of the most amazing sunsets I've ever seen on the way down. Arrived at camp just at the moment that headlamps would be necessary.

Great climb, but definitely be prepared for anything, and if you bring rock pro, you could avoid having to deal with the gulley at all and could take the ridge, as suggested in cluck's entry in the summit log. We watched multiple teams trot up and down the ridge while we were still part way up the gulley.

FYI: you must use the composting toilet up at the base of sulphide glacier....a total zen moment to yourself with awe inspiring views of baker from the throne. Not your average backcountry scat experience.
Posted Jul 26, 2005 6:38 pm

mekwiseRoute Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: July 4th, 2005  Sucess!


What a full fun filled day! About 17 hours of hiking, scrambling, glacier crossing and descending back to Lake Ann. We had the full weather experience with great weather most of the day, rain and fog on the summit.
Posted Jul 10, 2005 11:32 am

forjanRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: July 6, 2005


Well, I got a good taste of North Cascades climbing. Hiked with agorokhov and ClimbingSnow. We started from the Shannon Ridge trailhead (2500') just before noon on still partly cloudy skies. Then, half an hour into our approach, clouds started to come in. By the time we reached the North Cascades National Park boundary sign (at ~ 4700') at 3:30pm, clouds were very dark and it started to rain. Then, up the hill to the pass/saddle. Visibility less than 100 yards from here on. More and more rain.....we got quite soaked. We finally & quickly made camp at 6200' (about 50 yards uphill from the toilet). We tried our best to dry out all 3 of us on a small 2-man tent. It was crowded in there with Alex and David. It rained all night long....not only that, then the winds picked up and it howled most of the night. None of us got any sleep at all. By 8:30am next morning, we said f*** it, broke camp and headed down. All 3 of us got even more soaked on the walk-out (it had been raining now for over 20 hours...and was still raining!!) When we reached the trailhead, it looked like the 3 of us came out from a swim with all our clothes on......completely drenched in rain water. Ah.....the fun of North Cascades climbing! Bring several umbrellas!
Posted Jul 7, 2005 4:36 pm

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