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Mount Shuksan Climber's Log

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Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: June 26-27, 2004  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

Wow, what a great mountain. Impressive no matter where you are on it. My buddy Steve and I made the long hike in to base camp at about 6200 ft. Bivied on a flattened out ledge. 4 other parties camped there and left about 2:30 am. We said screw that and gave them a head start to clear out of the gully. Cruddy weather got better overnight and by 3:30 am when the pre-dawn light started, we got up. Lots of damn mice in the snow at the camp and one loud ptarmigan.



Started up about 4:30 am. By the time we got to the pinnacle it cleared up and we did 3 snow pitches up the gully. Running belay up about half of it. Some mixed rock/ice but mostly snow. Glad I had brought stoppers, placed about 6 on the way up. It gradually steepened to maybe 50 degrees up top. At the top of the snow in the gully, we cut right and did one short rock pitch of maybe 5.0 for about 20-30 feet before the final short scramble to the summit. (The Class 3 rating of this must be for a late season climb. Ours was more like 4th/low 5th with moderate snow steepness up the gully to like 50 degrees.)



Were sitting there admiring the views wondering about the raps down with one rope when another party of 4 came up from doing the North Face. Asked if they wanted to combine ropes for a double rope rap and they obliged. Good guys. They descended via Hell's Highway. Got back to Portland at 2 am. Ugh! Was worth it though.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 10:42 pm

esugiRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: August 13, 2001  Sucess!

esugi

Climbed via Suphide Glacier in August 2001. Pretty easy climb all around and the summit pinnacle made things really fun. One of my favorite climbs in the cascades.
Posted Mar 7, 2004 12:19 am

jverschuylRoute Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: July 20, 1994  Sucess!

jverschuyl

We climbed the chimneys in the fog on an unusually warm morning, and then topped out of the clouds on the Upper Curtis Glacier. Hell's Highway was not crevassed at all. Summited at 9 am. Very soft snow conditions kept us from self arresting during an extended slide down Hell's Highway. After that experience we decided to rappel down Winnie's slide. Beautiful, impressive mountain especially the walk across the Upper Curtis.
Posted Oct 24, 2003 10:16 am

jasonconnellRoute Climbed: Sulphide Date Climbed: August 3rd 2003  Sucess!

jasonconnell

Great day trip, spent two hours on the summit drinking espresso.
Posted Sep 4, 2003 2:37 am

cluckRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: 8/4/03  Sucess!

cluck

Sulphide in mid Summer and good weather is a fun climbing objective and a real teddy bear.



Route through glacier was obvious, had no/very, very little danger of crevasse fall. Snow was perfect for crampons and never very steep..... max angle 30?



We scrambled up the SE ridge rather than doing the "standard" South central 3rd/4th class gully finish.



The ridge rocked! Solid rock versus Cascades choss, mostly 3rd/4th with a few short low 5th moves. We simul-climbed on a running belay with a few horns slung as pro, belayed one 5.6 move that had a great anchor above.



Downclimbed the gully versus multiple raps.



Can certainly understand how the gully in earlier season conditions.... wet, mixed snow, ice & rock would be a challenge. But, if you are looking for a relaxing climb with less stress and beautiful views, early August on Shuksan certainly fit that description for us.



4 hours to camp at 6000'. 4 hours to summit. 2.5 hours back to camp. 3 hours back to car.
Posted Aug 4, 2003 4:05 pm

NormanRoute Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: August, 2001  Sucess!

Norman

Great climb, nice mix of moderate rock and glacier. What a beautiful mountain.
Posted Jul 24, 2003 1:36 am

MikeBRoute Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: August, 1995  Sucess!

MikeB

Beautiful hanging glaciers. Exciting crevasse jumping!
Posted Mar 9, 2003 5:07 pm

kullabergRoute Climbed: fisher chimneys Date Climbed: aug 94  Sucess!

kullaberg

here's a great all-round mountaineering route. route finding challenges, root pulling on cascade choss, glacier travel, steep snow and a summit pyramid scramble to die for.
Posted Nov 27, 2002 10:26 pm

jasonconnellRoute Climbed: Sulphide and NF Date Climbed: July 98 Sulphide April and August 99 North Face  Sucess!

jasonconnell

Climbed the Sulphide in 98 with Tim and a friend of a friend who was in way over his head on the summit pyramid and turned back after a few feet. Summited in a white out.

Went back in April 99 to climb the NF with Nick. Long hard appraoch, we were stopped by constant avalanches in the gulley leading up to the ridge.

Tried again in August 99 - Fantastic climbing, ran into a group at the bottom of the summit pyramid that seemed very suprised to see us come around the corner. didn't climb the rocks this time, we just headed right back down the White Salmon descent. Had a open bivy and a rainy night half way down the glacier. The next day was pure HELL getting off the glacier and bush whacking for 8 hours back to the car in to rain.



SO Fun :-)
Posted Sep 10, 2002 4:46 pm

ZekeRoute Climbed: Sulphide Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2002  Sucess!

Zeke

Approach is a bitch, much agreement on that. My advice is to camp JUST below the National Park boundry. Dont carry all your crap up to the high camp area on the glacier. Its a waste of time AND energy and only saves you about an hour to hour and a half on the climb day. Camp lower, save your energy and you get off to a faster start.

Gully is more 4th class than 3rd. Carry your rope, you may need to rap., esp if theres just two of you. May be faster.

Prepare for amazing Northern Cascade view and dont spare the film.
Posted Aug 13, 2002 12:19 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: Summer '95  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

The approach trail was a pain, but once we reached the Sulphide Glacier, moods changed. This is a fantastic Mt from any angle. The summit block scramble was fun. The view over to Baker is just another bonus. The summit block was busy the day we were there.
Posted Jul 29, 2002 8:57 am

aaronamiRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: June 22, 2002  Sucess!
Perfect weather. Beautiful steep snow. Advice to live by: Wear sunscreen, lots of it.



The approach/departing bushwack was difficult. Any advice on the best approach route would be welcomed.



To examine the glory of the Creator in such an intimate manner eliminates any notion of conquering the mountain. You merely survive it.



Great route.
Posted Jul 7, 2002 10:55 pm

VinnyRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!

Vinny

A great route- at the time a real turning point in my climbing career...



Group solo.

Good times with Perry and Pierre.
Posted Jun 28, 2002 8:11 am

geoffcaseyRoute Climbed: Sulfide Glacier Date Climbed: June 8 and 9 2002  Sucess!

geoffcasey

We set out around 2:00 am passing two large and one small group enroute to the summit pyramid. Setting the route up was a challenge, as the pyramid was still covered in snow and ice. We used running belays and on the steep, icier sections, and set ancors to belay each other on the upper ice section. Spending a few seconds on the summit we decided to head down as there was about 30 others on their way up,.
Posted Jun 25, 2002 9:31 am

sshankleRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: July 12, 2000  Sucess!

sshankle

Fun climb, easy in good weather the day we were there.
Posted Nov 12, 2001 10:48 am

tbnelsonRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: August 28, 2000  Sucess!

tbnelson

Summited via the Sulphide. We made our high camp in a whiteout and were ready to throw the towel in when a 24 hour period of crystal blue skies arrived. Spectacular views of the Sulphide and Crystal Glacier icefalls. As we descended lenticulars were already brewing on the summit pyramid of Shuksan and nearby Mount Baker. We also had great views of Rainier 130 miles away and Mount Garibaldi in British Columbia. Great climb.
Posted May 12, 2001 4:35 pm

Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: June 1997  Sucess!

Bob Bolton

This was my fourth attempt on Shuksan. The first was in 1979 using the Fisher Chimneys route and attempting a round trip from the car. Don't ever try this--it is too far. We ran out of time. The next two attempts were the Sulphide Glacier from the car. Both were also aborted due to time. This is a very long approach with an elevation gain from the car of over 6,500 feet (1981 m). Finally in 1997 we got smart and packed up to Shannon Ridge for a closer start. It is still a very long climb, but doable. There had been 6-8 inches of fresh snowfall in the summit couloir shortly before our attempt. This new snow repeatedly caused mini-avalanches in the couloir. These were never powerful or deep, but were still quite spooky. Even the snow trail up to the couloir was quite loose and we often caused more snow to slide with our steps. Between the soft snow and the rock scramble near the top I was in no mood for photography on the summit. I must return again for that objective. It is a most fabulous perch on top of this peak. The views of the North Cascades are incredible. This is a very exciting mountain, and I highly recommend it. It is perfect for a spring ski climb as far as the base of the summit block in late May and June.
Posted Apr 15, 2001 5:03 pm

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