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soslawRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: September 14, 2003  Sucess!

soslaw

Climbed with Nathan as a get acquainted climb in anticipation of our trip to Aconcagua in January 2004. Set camp just below the Palisade glacier. Rte up the North couloir was straight forward followed by some short pitches of class 4 rock. Blue bird day on top.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 2:14 pm

Brian FrederickRoute Climbed: Swiss arete and north couloir Date Climbed: Late 1980's  Sucess!

Brian Frederick

Climbed North couloir solo in May. Good hard snow all the way from 3rd lake to top of couloir (took short cut straight up from 3rd along Temple crag and Gayley to bottom of Glacier notch and camped ). Tricky, snowy traverse to ridge but very fun in retrospect. Climbed the Swiss arete in summer- wonderful climb and fantastic views. Can't wait to take my son on that one.
Posted Mar 10, 2005 11:55 pm

plumeRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: June 1998  Sucess!

plume

Led by the late great Kim Richards. Perfect weather, perfect climb, perfect trip.
Posted Feb 12, 2005 5:26 pm

sierratrekkinRoute Climbed: V-Notch Date Climbed: June, 2000  Sucess!

sierratrekkin

I climbed Mount Sill in June of 2000, via V-notch along with guide Brendon Cusick of AAI. Unfortunately at that time I did not own my digital camera and have no pictures. I returned in 2004 to see the west side of North Pal., Sill and the entire Palisade crest by backcountry travel from Bishop Pass over Napsack Pass, the Barrett Lake region, Potluck Pass, and later returned via the PCT north, then over the Dusy Basin trail again.
Posted Dec 19, 2004 7:10 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 3, 2004  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

Dayhike out of the Big Pine TH. I found the route-finding in the North Couloir much trickier than expected--so much for Bob's claim that I'd find it to be the easiest 4th class in the Sierra! It took considerable searching to find the easy way up, and I had a heck of a time trying to remember my exit point on the way back. The final portion up to the ridge looks like cliffs from above! I was starting to think I'd have to hang about and try to convince some other climber to let me use his rope and rappel... fortunately a key cairn and some more diligent route inspection saved me from embarrassment.



No views on Sill as the summit was socked in with clouds. A rather impressive lightning storm developed as I was heading up Gayley, so I bailed out down the drainage to Willow Lake without tagging that one. That was a mistake--I didn't find the use trail, and ended up doing way more talus hopping, bush whacking, and cursing than I'd have preferred.
Posted Nov 16, 2004 12:10 am

bechttRoute Climbed: Southwest chutes via Scimitar Pass Date Climbed: 25 Sep 04  Sucess!

bechtt

Perfect day -- longer slog than expected. Outstanding view from the top.
Posted Nov 10, 2004 12:34 pm

Steve LarsonRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: July, 1981  Sucess!

Steve Larson

Climbed this with Allan Bard, John Fischer, and a couple other folks from the Palisade School of Mountaineering as a diversion from the backbreaking labor of digging out our high camp equipment cache above the Palisade Glacier. We even had some politically incorrect fun trundling rocks down the east face. This route as definitely a classic. And the peak is awesome by any route. Highly recommended.
Posted Nov 5, 2004 9:27 pm

ripper333Route Climbed: traverse from thunderbolt Date Climbed: sept 2004
the last peak of one long day
august 2005... swiss arete with piotrek met on aconcagua... brought gear
didnt use....
Posted Oct 24, 2004 5:07 pm

BranchWhitneyRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: 8/23/2004  Sucess!
Great climb. As of 8/23/2004, you can avoid all the snow in the "L" shape snow field by climbing around it on the left side. This involves easy class 3 scrambling and bypasses a lot of the scree in the gully.

I believe this route follows the approach to the Swiss Arete.

Also, you can avoid virtually all the snow and ice in the Palisade Glacier by sneaking around the left side.
Posted Aug 24, 2004 11:04 am

Johnhl94563Route Climbed: Northwest Face Date Climbed: August 22, 2004  Sucess!

Johnhl94563

Did a variation of the North Couloir. This is called Northwest Face by Secor. Instead of climbing up to Glacier Notch, we ascended from the Palisade glacier to the notch betwen Mt. Sill and Apex Peak then followed the normal route from the traverse. This was filled with lots of loose rock.



Fun climb lots of weather (thunder/rain/snow/sleet) every afternoon. Found the 4th class pitch very obvious and simple.



For more information, read my trip report.
Posted Aug 24, 2004 12:19 am

Scott M.Route Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: August 11, 2004  Sucess!

Scott M.

What a fun route! Had camped below Gayley the night before and headed up the Swiss Arete as part of a planned traverse to Thunderbolt. We made the top in good speed and departed true to the traverse toward Polemonium. Nice clean rock on this route and the reputation about the view from on top is well deserved. It is great.
Posted Aug 13, 2004 4:57 pm

jimmasonllcRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: July 25, 2004  Sucess!

jimmasonllc

ANOTHER SIERRAS EPIC ACCOMPLISHED!

By: Robert Vallera, Jochen Klinke and Jim Mason

Happy Birthday Jochen! (41)

Date: July 25-26, 2004

Route: Swiss Arete, III (5.7)

Equipment: 50 meter double rope, generous rack of TCUs and Cams, hexes #4-10, 1 set nuts, 1 pink tri-cam.

Summited at 8:00 PM after about 8 pitches. Fun climb, nice exposure, a classic, and for us - in more ways than one - an epic! Got back to our camp at the foot of the Palisade Glacier about 9:30 AM the morning of July 26th. (See trip report.)
Posted Aug 5, 2004 5:02 pm

gordonyeNorth Couloir from Elinore Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2013

gordonye

Climbed with Mike Chen, roping up for a class 4 pitch. Weather was cloudy and unstable the whole day, but we made it down before the thunderstorm hit in late afternoon.

July 2004: After a late start from Sam Mack Meadow, I made it to about 13300' above the loose rocks of Glacier Notch. My partner Vladimir made it to the summit. Gorgeous scenery but very long route made for challenging navigation when descending at night.

Dropped my ice axe somewhere along the glacier trail above Sam Mack Meadow. It's a black HB Glacier, about 2' long.
Posted Jul 26, 2004 2:32 pm

mt_daydreamRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 1, 2003  Sucess!

mt_daydream

Awesome peak! Great approach - 8 miles, gain about 6K feet, lots of lakes and scenery. View from the Palisade glacier was great. Even better was the view of the Sierra mountainscape from the top! Summited at 9 am - very calm at the top. The North Couloir had some moves that I thought were touching class 5 (really exposed too). Glissade down the L-notch was fun.
Posted Jul 15, 2004 4:41 am

Fred BagniRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: June 21, 2002  Sucess!

Fred Bagni

Best view. I love the palisades.
Posted Jul 10, 2004 7:03 pm

Scott PierceRoute Climbed: Southwest Slopes Date Climbed: Late may, 2004  Sucess!

Scott Pierce

As part of a ski tour around the Palisades.



Originally planned to skin as far as possible toward the saddle of Sill-Polemonium, but consensus veered us onto the more interesting class 3 talus and blocks SW of the summit. Needed to angle left more than we did lower down on the climb--we got on a rib that bought us to a false summit and forced us to rap down into a notch and continue traversing left. Either way, lots of fun and a great day for talus-hopping in telemark "rock slippers".
Posted Jun 19, 2004 3:50 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: May 1977  Sucess!
Climbed this with Sheldon Moomaw back in the day.
Posted Jan 26, 2004 11:01 am

dvsanbtRoute Climbed: southwest chute Date Climbed: august 30, 2003  Sucess!

dvsanbt

did a solo overnighter. camped in the palisade basin just below the

t-bolt pass. at the base of the climb, took the second chute (that culminates in a notch prominent even from the base). stayed along the ridge defining the left (on way up) of this chute. good solid rock for most part (class 2-3). climbing up the notch at the top (towards the summit) was a bit harder than the stuff before that, but not a lot more (and virtually no exposure).

looong approach from the south lake.
Posted Oct 12, 2003 5:50 pm

GuiltyRoute Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: 08/05/00 and 08/09/99  Sucess!

Guilty

I hiked up from Elsinore Lake with some friends. We ascended up the couloir, then a scramble to the summit. I got tired of waiting for my friends at the summit, so I went did Polemonium, North Palisade, and Starlight. I new I would run out of sunlight if I went did Thunderbolt, so I headed back to Elsinore Lake.

In 1999, solo from Sam Mack up the North Couloir Route, then traverse to Polemonium.
Posted Oct 7, 2003 9:49 pm

Rinat ShagisultanovRoute Climbed: North Coulour Date Climbed: June 14, 2002  Sucess!

Rinat Shagisultanov

Climbed with Taras Usyk, Alex and Olga Kizler (San Diego, LA) under perfect conditions (weather, snow and glacier) from the base amp at Sam Mack meadows. Had not problem with routefinding and climbing though the other team members asked for the fixed line on short class 4 section. The major problem was the AMS on the way back (it is hard to do it in 3 days from the sea level). The mountain itslelf is a magnificient peak having the all reasons to do it as a technical one. I am dreaming of going over the Swiss Arete next time.

Posted Aug 31, 2003 10:36 pm

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