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Mount Stuart Climber's Log

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kylefroweSuccess  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2010
Awesome views steep scree and snow
Posted Jan 3, 2013 12:48 pm

juneauhikerCascadian  Sucess!


A great hike in a beautiful place.
Posted Nov 9, 2012 11:16 am

tcingrumStuart  Sucess!


Cascadian route. Lots of loose rock and dirt.
Posted Sep 19, 2012 10:56 pm

Digglercomplete N ridge- finally!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012


WHAT a route!! When no opportunities opened up with friends, finally found a willing & able partner.

Camped near Ingalls Lake by meadows (would have just gone for the climb as a day climb in retrospect- additional hike back to camp after ascent SUCKED!), which provided stunning views of SW face of Stuart (& far too many obnoxious nocturnal goats).

Started from camp @ 5.20. Still a ways to go before reaching start of route (including a few sketchy snowfield crossings). Off & climbing finally @ 10.05. Belayed first 4 or so pitches of lower ridge before simul'ing to notch. P2 hardest of lower buttress. Simul'ed to Great Gendarme (seems like a misnomer- instead of climbing around the thing, you go straight up it). Successful roshambo meant I got the lead- phenomenal pitch (best of climb, in my opinion)!!! Linked strenuous lieback w/ "off-width" (actually a fist crack for normal-sized folks), then climbed ~50' above that to a 'bivy'/belay ledge. Dropped my brand new camera from notch above the gendarme, which SUCKED :( Made haste after that, as time growing nigh(t)- finally summited @ 20.05. LONG & fatigueing descent down Cascadian Couloir ensued (shitty-non-existent trails to Stuart Pass, then back to camp added to frustrations).

Finally back @ camp @ 3.06- WHAT a day, mountain, climb!!! Thanks, Mark!
Posted Sep 16, 2012 7:47 pm

drootCascadian  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012


Climbed via the Cascadian Couloir. Nothing major until the summit ridge is reached, and then some fun class 3 to the summit.
Fires were burning everywhere at the time, and we could see lots of smoke from the summit.

Came down the same way, making our way quickly digging into the soft sand.
Posted Sep 16, 2012 6:11 am

kevinsaMt. Stuart  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009


Got off route a little bit, but managed to salvage it. Would like to come back when there are a few less clouds.
Posted Sep 15, 2012 9:25 pm

JoelSkokWest Ridge route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 1977


Loved the experience with my old Boy Scout leader Jack Kinney, Eddie Bolton and his girlfriend. Route finding was an issue but we at last prevailed. Some T-storms in the two days we were on the mountain but we found overhangs to stave off the hard rains. Pace was easy for me, didn't feel challenged.
Posted Sep 13, 2012 9:51 pm

Vitaliy M.Full North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012

Vitaliy M.

Car to Car full north ridge with the gendarme. Out from Stuart Lake TH.
Posted Aug 19, 2012 3:06 pm

ClimberCrabsCascadian Couloir in the heat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2011


Climbed Stuart via the Cascadian Couloir on a very hot weekend. Route was easy enough until we hit the snowfield below the false summit which was snowier than usual and quite slick. Made it up and over to the actual summit and enjoyed a nice nap. Navigating down the snowfield was dicey and one member of our party slipped but was able to arrest before the rocks. Had an awesome campsite in the meadow, probably the best part of the whole trip!
Posted Jul 18, 2012 3:34 pm

sgilesUpper North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010


Classic climb, amazing exposure and views. We came in from the Ingalls Lake trailhead and went up and over goat pass. bivyed above the glacier and started climbing the next day. A storm rolled in while we were climbing and we ended up bivying on a ledge above the gendarme for 2 nights waiting for it to pass. When it passes, it was gorgeous. Views to the Olympic mountains and a great story
Posted Apr 12, 2012 12:58 pm

belowfellowCC  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011


early season, via CC. fun day.
Posted Feb 10, 2012 4:56 pm

Josh LewisA decent hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2011

Josh Lewis

This was a decent hike although the CC would have been nicer if there was snow in it. Oh well, at least had some nice views before the clouds came in when we summited.
Posted Oct 2, 2011 12:29 am

relicYears ago  Sucess!


Catching up on logs I should've signed years ago. This mountain is an icon, visible from most places in the North Cascades. Great, solid rock on most routes.
Posted Sep 18, 2011 11:06 am

VinnyRescue support  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2011


Ran up CC in the night with Jonah and Sandeep as rescue support for the Helo. 5 and a bit hours from car to summit then across to west ridge to locate our friend/subject. Good outcome. Took longer to wander down but the views were better with sunlight. While descending Sandeep learned the meaning of lolly-gagging and how to do so ; )
Posted Sep 16, 2011 1:06 pm

iquest4itCascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011


Scree climb and Class 3 scramble to steep snow chutes on left for last 1,500 ft to false summit. Snow was soft but consolidated underneath. Ridge to summit mostly snow free. Too the "Variation #1" chute down - big mistake - water fall for last 1,500 ft. with nasty snow bridge at bottom. Fun climb, except for the part back up to Long's Pass.
Posted Aug 5, 2011 12:28 pm

BurkeMCascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011


Pretty uneventful. Cairns between false summit and summit can be a bit misleading but stay high on the ridge and youll be good. Left the car at 5:30 and was back at a little after 6:00 and thats including farting around quite a bit. Getting back up to Long's Pass was the hardest part thanks to the bog and then snow thats lingering.
Posted Aug 1, 2011 1:54 pm

Matt LemkeCascadian  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2011

Matt Lemke

A chossy mess of a route most of the way up but still enjoyable nonetheless. Somewhat foggy at summit but still views to be seen! Even got a glissade in.
Posted Aug 1, 2011 3:01 am

Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2011


Climbed/skied "Variation 1" to the west of the Cascadian to the false summit. Decided the last couple hundred feet of snow to the summit in the blistering sun wasn't a good idea. I've been thinking about this climb for several years and hope to make it back again some time soon.
Posted Jun 12, 2011 8:55 pm

HiTYes!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010


My first on the Bulger list! Did this with some new amazing friends as a day trip. Ended up being 15.5 hours and I have to admit, it kicked my butt but was the best ever. Being the first on the Bulger list and the beginning of new friendships, it will always be special to me. Although, I doubt I will repeat this one!
Posted Dec 30, 2010 3:55 pm

ExcitableBoyVarious routes


Sherpa Glacier, Ice Cliff Glacier, North ridge (multiple), Stuart Glacier Couloir, West Ridge solo in a day in running shoes, South Face to West Ridge, Cascadian Couloir (as speed climb - 3 hours car to summit).
Posted Dec 27, 2010 11:05 am

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