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jtostenrRoute Climbed: Ulrich's/Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: August 21, 2004  Sucess!

jtostenr

We left the trailhead at 6PM Friday and headed over Longs Pass. Got to campsite next to creek at 9PM and went to bed early. We hit the trail at 6AM and went looking for the Cascadian Couloir. None of us had ever climbed Mt Stuart before and had a little trouble finding the correct couloir. We ended up ascending Ulrich's Couloir and crossing over to the Cascadian Couloir about 3/4 the way up. Summit ridge was mostly Class 3 with a couple Class 4 spots. Summited about noon and descended the Cascadian Couloir. Very rocky and dusty, but a good trip nonetheless.
Posted Aug 22, 2004 4:34 am

Derek FranzenRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 4/5 1981  Sucess!

Derek Franzen

With E Sandbo & T Rashko. Drove over to TH Friday after work. Hiked in to flat spot in trail in dark and slept next to small creek. Up at 4am and hiked over Ingalls, Goat and Stuart Passes. Crossed glacier and climbed gully to ridge. Refilled water bottles from snowmelt. Ridge climbing good 4th and easy 5th class to Gendarme. Avoided Gendarme with rappel to slabs to the W. Couple of 5th class moves up slabs then scramble to summit. Bivy on summit, low on water but not on food. Tim had backpack full of peanutbutter & margerine sandwiches, Eric had plenty of dried bananas, I had peanut M&Ms and cheese. I climbed into bivy sack and started to dine while buddies threw rocks at Snafflehounds. One Snafflehound wanted to share M&Ms and jumped on my chest where food was, Snafflehound was launched into orbit. Descent of Cascade Couloir long and dry, no water. Halfway down talus balanced boulder, no longer balanced when I climbed on it, trundled over me, split back of scalp and boulder rolled over booted foot. Bandaged head but decided not to take boot off. Finally reached Ingalls Creek must of drank 2 quarts of water. Day turned extremely hot on climb up Longs Pass, thankfully we ran out of water but not peanutbutter & margerine sandwiches.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 9:19 am

esugiRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 22, 2003  Sucess!

esugi

What a long slog! Left the trailhead around 4 am reaching the base of Cascadian Couloir at around 6 am. Long slog up the couloir. Obviously no snow this late in the season. Just plenty of rock, scree, dirt, sand, etc. Summitted at 11 am.



Pretty fun towards the top with class 3 (I'd say some class 4) rock to the summit.



Descent was uneventful and made it back to the car at 6pm. See my photo submissions.



Posted Mar 1, 2004 1:04 pm

MoniRoute Climbed: West Ridge/ Sherpa Glacier Date Climbed: Jul 19, 1978 & May 13, 1979  Sucess!

Moni

With Fred both times. Need to go back and do the North Ridge.
Posted Nov 15, 2003 8:57 am

jasonconnellRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 20th 2003  Sucess!

jasonconnell

Climbed with a group of 7 from Starbucks.

Great trip,

Left the trailhead at 4:45am, reached the summit after 7 hours.

After over an hour on the summit we headed down.

Great weather, over all the climb is a big slog until you are near the top.
Posted Sep 24, 2003 9:41 pm

sprossedaRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: August 13, 2003  Sucess!

sprosseda

Left car at 9am, setup bivi at top of couloir at 7,600 ft. and 2pm, summitted at 6pm, back to bivi at 8pm. Wonderful, quiet, calm and warm night under full moon! Summit is very high with a fun, slabby, dorsal fin tip. Views down to West Horn and North Ridge are awesome. Summit-false summit traverse is enjoyable class 3 scrambling (a few more difficult moves too) but otherwise the couloir is trash. It's fast going down on all the sand though.
Posted Sep 10, 2003 11:26 am

brandonRoute Climbed: West Ridge with Direct Summit Pyramid Variation Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2003  Sucess!

brandon

Car to car from Long Pass Trailhead 14 hours. Exciting vertical pitch up behind Long John Tower. 5 or 6 pitches up to about 5.6 on the summit pyramid. Longest scree and talus descent I've ever experienced down the Cascadian Couloir. At least that trail back up over Long Pass is a straight shot. Woohoo..
Posted Sep 2, 2003 4:33 pm

leejamsRoute Climbed: North ridge Date Climbed: July 5th 2003  Sucess!

leejams

Awesome climb. Views are just Okay but the deal is the fantastic granite . 4 stars for this one.
Posted Jul 7, 2003 12:44 am

Sean-Scott IngersollRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: June 28, 2003  Sucess!
We had great weather on summit day, a strong party (10 on the summit, I believe), good rock scrambling and some moderately steep snow slopes...all in all, a fine climb. I will never understand, however, how nine other Mazamas can climb the same route I can and appear no worse for the wear, while I come home looking like I was beaten with sticks, stoned (in the Biblical sense), and eaten alive by mosquitos...

At least I didn't break anything this time...
Posted Jul 1, 2003 3:43 pm

MikeBRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July, 2001  Sucess!

MikeB

Attempted route car to car in a day, but summited at dusk. Survived unpleasant and unplanned bivouac (no bivy gear) on summit.



Did not climb the Great Gendarme section, but instead rapped to climb the 5.7 traverse/slab pitch. Pitch was very icy and unprotectable, but proved to be very enjoyable lead - well worth the trip. Possibly off route on scramble to summit - finished by soloing loose, overhanging 5.10 blocks.



Fun ridge route to climb in boots - mostly high quality granite.
Posted Dec 26, 2002 2:17 pm

HammerRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 15, 2002  Sucess!

Hammer

After a nice and muggy hike over Long's pass into our camp on Ingall's Creek we were dismayed at seeing a huge crowd of tents and bivis at our desired campsite. However, the camp was empty hopefully signifying that everyone was climbing that day. The next day we headed out just before daybreak and headed up the Cascadian Couloir making great time for a large group of 11. We proclaimed ourselves lucky to have the mountain or at least this route essentially to ourselves. We did get passed up by a fast group of two that we later encountered at the base of the small snowfield. After some exciting and fun 3rd class scrambling we found ourselves atop the summit beating out the incoming weather front. We descended with some speed in hopes of beating the weather back to camp but instead felt the heat. As we returned to camp we were surprised to see that we were the only ones left at our once busy campsite. We settled down and discussed our climb. That night it rained pretty good causing my bivi sack to float atop my tarp. It was liking sleeping on a waterbed. The rained stopped as we got out of bed the next morning and kept us cool on our hike out.
Posted Sep 23, 2002 10:02 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: Summer '95; Summer '96; Summer '97  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

Summer '95 reached the top in strong winds and thick cloud cover.



Summer '96 was clear and sunny.



Summer '97 shared the summit block with three mountain goats. Solo
Posted Jul 29, 2002 9:23 am

Fred SpickerRoute Climbed: See below Date Climbed: 1 Feb 1976, 17 July 1976, 31 July 1977, 19 July 1978, & 13 May 1979

Fred Spicker

Feb 1976 via Ice Cliff Glacier with Rick Johnson

July 1976 via N Ridge with David Coughlin

1977 via N Ridge with Rick Johnson

1978 via Sherpa Glacier with Monica Spicker

1979 via W Ridge with Monica Spicker

The only climb with any irritating difficulties was the winter climb of Ice Cliff Glacier - it took a long time to get through the cornice at the top. I sympathize with "climbit".
Posted Jul 25, 2002 9:53 pm

climbitRoute Climbed: Icecliff Glacier Date Climbed: 5/26/02  Sucess!

climbit

Great route! Started at 3:30 am from 5400ft basin and went over lower terminal moraine and then straight for the 17th century moraine in the throat of the glacier between the lower North Ridge and the north spur of the East Ridge. Followed route description in this web site. LOTS of icefall and rockfall on the right (west) side of the glacier. Temperatures were on the warm side, so this was to be expected. Snow conditions were crusty and less than styrofoam with a hard layer about 6-8 inches under the crust.



The icecliff was in gentle form so we soloed until above it and then roped up for the 'schrund crossings and couloir/cornice. The crux for us was the cornice pitch. Attempted (and succeeded) in the direct rock and snow pitch into the cornice. Should have tried the right side snow benches. Took us two hours and two different attempts to defeat the pitch, my partner Matt finally succeeding in dry tooling the thing and then chopping the cornice down enough to beach himself on the other side.



Descent began at 1pm or so and was down a very loose Sherpa Glacier. Lots of small slides on the glacier and icefall/rockfall off the ridges and hanging ice in the valley, mostly off the west side. The east side of the glacier had less overall debris but larger blocks. 12 hours camp to camp on the climb.
Posted May 31, 2002 10:44 am

Toro138Route Climbed: Ulrichs Date Climbed: Oct or Nov ? 2002  Sucess!
Tom Rockwood - I hope you read this! :) We thought we'd go up it in a day, and we did. We also thought the sun wouldn't set until around 6 PM, but it went down at 4:30! It was a long day to say the least - but a fun one! Make sure you bring plenty of webbing for repels and plenty of H20 :) Also, stay way west of the cascadia (I think 3 couloirs at least) to avoid any dead ends unless you are looking for some walls. Longs pass is the way to go if you come in from the Teannaway.
Posted Mar 8, 2002 4:02 am

scottvRoute Climbed: North Ridge (from/to Teanaway River trailhead) Date Climbed: 8/5-6/01  Sucess!

scottv

Overly optimistic, Alan and I left the car at 4am with the grand aspiration of being back by midnight. Hah! Stuart tantalized us as we crested Ingalls Pass at dawn, lured us up to Goat Pass, and then inspired us to do the whole ridge (classic lower east start variation). The weather was holding, we filled up on Stuart glacier water 100m from the start at 10am, and 2 climbers (with apparent prior route experience) were just a pitch ahead of us. Beckey was our guide. We couldn't fail.



The length of the lower ridge was astounding. We spent some time cursing Beckey; his "4th/5th" annotations metamorphosed into endless 5.6-5.7 route finding. We were sure we had made it to the half way mark at least 3 separate times. The rope drag was exhausting. At 9pm we admitted our delusions, and bivied uncomfortably 2 pitches below the gendarme. 1 liter water and 3 bars left after a meager dinner. Thank Buddha/Allah/God/Zeus it didn't rain that night. Mist and fatigue in the dawn light sent us over the edge, rapping in fear from the Gendarme into a wet but tractable traverse into the 4th/5th/3rd class up to the summit (1pm, day2).



The mist cleared just in time for the grueling descent of Cascadia Couloir. This is where Stuart, clearly experienced in the psychological destruction of off-the-couch climbers, took great pleasure in debasing us. Only the two mountain goats heading up the Couloir looked hotter in their mottled fur coats than we felt. Dehydration soon reduced us to stumbling gaits and a Bataan demeanor.



After 4000' down, the creek was absolute bliss. The biting flies hurried us up the easily found Longs Pass trail. We were back at the car at 8:30pm, merely some 20 hours late. Oh, the lessons we learn. Ah, the convincing methods of the mountain teacher.
Posted Aug 8, 2001 9:52 am

Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 2, 1990  Sucess!

Bob Bolton

Three dads took three 11- and 12-year-old sons to the summit of Stuart from a camp near Ingalls Lake. This is not the approach of choice, as climbing was somewhat of an afterthought to a Labor Day weekend backpack trip to Ingalls Lake. From our camp we had to descend deep into the Ingalls Creek valley south of the mountain. The route begins at the 4800-foot level, making it a 4600 ft+ ascent on mostly rather loose rock. Everyone was ready to quit walking when we returned to the base of the mountain, but we still had the long climb out of the canyon facing us. When we finally dragged into camp, I had no energy for anything including cooking, so forced a few morsels down and hit the sack. It was the most wasted I have ever been in my life.
Posted Apr 17, 2001 9:42 pm

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