Mount Williamson Climber's Log
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|phomchick||Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge via George Creek Date Climbed: May 6, 2002|
|This was my second trip up George Creek. The last time was 32 years ago, where we abandoned the climb 200 feet from the summit in a freezing, white-out gale. This time the weather gods looked favorably on the enterprise and it was 58 degrees and windless on the summit. George Creek is a terrible almost-trailess slog. After 5,000' of approach, you are left with a 1,900' ridge, and a 1,300' summit mass. It's all class 2, and this time there was enough snow to cover good amounts of scree and talus. The view from Williamson in unmatched from any mountain in the Sierra. The snow is going fast, but there was enough left to leave a small cornice on the southeast summit ridge. The climb is a lot of work, but it is also a tremendous amount of fun. See photos and route description under "Southeast Ridge". ROUTES. Also did the west face from Shepherd's pass in 1972. I am glad I got over my unexplainable desire to do Shepherd's Pass while I was in my 20's!|
|Posted May 11, 2002 8:52 am|
|darinchadwick||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: May 2001|
|It really is too bad that Williamson is a little lower than Whitney, 'cause it sure is a bigger and badder mtn (and approach). Conditions were great in the coulior, I highly recommend climbing when it's full of snow, for an easier ascent, and a much speedier glissade descent. Icy climbing getting out of the coulior, and a couple wierd (for 3rd class) moves, and we were just below the summit. Next time, we'll try a ridge that summits the East Horn.|
|Posted Apr 2, 2002 6:26 am|
|Elwood||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 95|
|A good varied climb! Starting with loose scree down low, then a nice snow chute in the middle section, & finally, a short easy chimney section near the top, to round it out. I wanted to make sure I did both of these mountains in one go, for two reasons: #1- the short time frame you have due to the bighorn sheep. & #2- I didn't really want to come back over Shepherd Pass again!|
|Posted Nov 4, 2001 4:10 pm|
|Josh||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: August 5, 2001|
|This was the thirteenth summit of my CA 14er speed climbing tour! Check out the trip report here.|
|Posted Aug 8, 2001 5:06 pm|
|Guilty||Route Climbed: Shepherd's Pass Date Climbed: July 15, 2001|
|I solo from Anvil Camp. Left at 10:30am, leaving my girlfriend behind, and arrived at the summit at 2:30pm. (4hrs) On the class 3 sections ran into some other climbers so I went around. No problem with the snow. I was probably the last climber that day and for the season that would be legally their. Very sunny and warm. Descended to the bowl and climbed Tyndall. Back in camp to a warm cooked meal waiting for me. Ha!|
|Posted Aug 2, 2001 2:28 pm|
|dnhess||Route Climbed: Sherpherd's Pass Date Climbed: July 13th, 2001|
|Summited at 10AM, on Friday, July 13th with James Kolter after a 4 hour climb from the 2nd lake at Sherpherd's Pass -we spent 1/2 hour on the summit. 14er #5 for me. It was my second attempt (we were turned back in 2000), and it was James' 4th attempt - two early season attempts up George Creek, as well as one from Shepherd's Pass. No wind, sunny - perfect conditions. |
Neither of us are rock climbers and we had no problems in the chute or the chimney at the top of the chute. Because their was still snow in the chute, we had to do some 3rd class moves to the right of the snow to make it up the chute. A pair of in-step crampons would have solved that problem. The biggest concern was what the chimney would be like. I was prepared to turn back if it was too sketchy (I am married with two children!!), but I basically followed the advice of a trip report I read - to wedge myself between the rocks and to climb UNDER the chokestone 1/2 way up the 3rd class section. James didn't climb under it and felt comfortable. This section is short and I never felt uncomfortable whatsoever, although the pictures in the books and the pictures we took can give the impression that one would want to use a rope and harness. I would say that the most critical factor is the level of a person's fatigue when reaching the top of the LOOOONG climb up the chute - the chimney would be sketchy if one was extremely fatigued.
It was a spectacular summit - all 14er's were in view except Mt. Muir (behind Whitney) and of course Mt. Shasta. One can see how easy it would be to summit from the George Creek route if it was allowed for more than two months of the year.
The climb out of the Williamson Bowl was the worst part of the entire climb. We reached our camp at 1:30PM.
Hiked all the way out the same day - left at 2:30PM and reached the trailhead just before 6:30PM - I recommend that people camp another night - I threw up 3 times just before the Symnes Saddle!! (Felt great afterwards though).
By the way, everything people say about mosqitoes at Anvil Camp is completely true!!! I don't recommend it - hike another hour to Pothole and camp there instead.
I know it has been said many times before, but Mt. Williamson's approach is the longest, and hardest I've ever attempted.
|Posted Jul 17, 2001 12:29 pm|
|Josh||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 11, 2001|
|Solo, single-day, car-to-car ascent of both Williamson and Tyndall. This is loooong day. It took me 15.5 hours to do the trek, and I was cruising at a pretty good pace the whole time. By my estimates, the round trip is approximately 30 miles with 12,000 - 14,000 ft of elevation gain, depending on what level of detail you choose to look at (yeah, yeah, don't get fractal on me). |
I started at my car at 3:30am. Groggy and tired from the previous day's Muir-Whitney-Russell traverse, I made my way up to Shepherds Pass. From the Pass, I continued west to the North-West Ridge of Tyndall. Up that, then down Tyndall's Class 3 North Rib (a.k.a. Sierra Crest Rib). A hellish traverse accross Williamson Bowl was next, then up eternal talus slopes and Class 3 rock to the summit of Williamson. Back to the car at 7pm.
|Posted Jul 15, 2001 5:45 pm|