Dent du Jaman

Overview

Located behind (Northeast of) Montreux, the summit rises 1500m from the lake below to 1875m, with the pofile of a sharks fin. Dent du Jaman offers a wide range of climbing option from easy hike / scrambles up the NNE, E and ESE faces which can be summited easily in summer condition and offer slightly more challenging short winter routes if you choose to climb up around the more southern side, Jaman offers a nice introduction to Alpine beginners. The Western side offers more challenging routes ranging from AD- to D+ IV, V and A1. The Southeast face (Pilier Motorhead) offers a number of rock routes graded from D to TD, some requiring aid of A1 and A2. During summer the eastern routes are busy with hiker and climbers are often seen on the Southeastern side. As for the western side I'm yet to see anyone in this area but there are many signs of climbers having been there. The Valley to the east of Jaman offers a lot of bouldering possiblities for those that care to look.

Getting There

Driving; in summer you can drive to Col de Jaman at 1500 metres just northeast of the summit there is a car park and small mountain restaurant. From the carpark you either approach the summit from the West or the East depending on the route you wish to do. In winter you can normally drive as far as Caux . Train: From Montreux you can catch a train either part or all the way to Col de Jaman but it is quite expensive (about 35 chf return) half price with the swiss demi tarrif card. Hike: To hike up from the lake there are number of trails all well marked for the best and most interesting leave from behind Veytaux (go up Rue Bonivard, turn into Route du Sonloup, park under the express way follow the roadup take the right into Chemin du Crete continue up till where the road is chained up, continue up look out for hiking signs and off you go). Drive and Hike; Drive past Caux by about a km, where you'll find a small parking lot, then follow the path that runs next to the train line to Crete d'y Bay train station then either head to the right up the grass slope or ski slope depending on the time of year (this is the most direct trail) or you can go right into the forest this trail is not in the best conditon and suffers from small landslides after periods of rain and is "closed" in winter as it crosses several snow shoots this way is very indirect but worth while. Or follow the train line to just past Le Pacot station and meet up with the forest trail. All trails are well travel and generally well signed.

Red Tape

NO

When To Climb

The Eastern side can be climbed all year round, ski decent (extreme black) is possible in winter. The rock routes are best enjoyed in summer conditions and would be considered very serious in winter conditions. Routes on the Western side are a open question depending on the amount of snow held on the peak, from my experience the Western Couloir (AD-)route is prone to snow and ice fall in winter and should be done before the sun hits it when holding snow. The slopes below the western face are fitted with avalanche barriers... just keep that in mind.

Camping

There is cattle grazed in the areas around Col de Jaman and i think a lot of the area is privately owned but there are lots of out of the way places which would well suit a night out (and the swiss mountain people are normally pretty easy going ) , just use your common sense. The Swiss alpine club have a hut at Col de Jaman... Chalet de Jaman, with 30 place.

Mountain Conditions

Not that i know of !

In the area

If you choose to drive upto Col de Jaman, on your way down you will see a sign directing you to Les Avants (it's on a very tight corner) if you head down this for about 5- 10minute you will find a small climbing crag (if you reach the village of Les Avants you've gone to far), it about a km back from the village on your right (as you leave from Jaman), look out for the red bench seat. There are about a dozen bolted routes the hardest pitches are V+ , with some A2 overhangs. The right of the crag offers a couple of easy III / IV routes, while the rest of the routes are mixes of IV to V+. The crag takes a couple of dry days after rain to get into condition. And a lot of the holds are polished. It can be pretty busy on the weekends. The longest route is about 25 metres.

Images

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