Mt Arrowsmith - Weepy Wall

Overview

50m of undulating ice. Usually 3 full lanes will form up and sometimes they have outstanding wind-made features and pillars. A great practice area besides the "Ice Box"

Getting There

Continue up Pass main until you reach the start of the Saddle Route. At the base of the turn toward Mt Cokely and just before the small bridge will be the obvious ice to your right. A short, 10 minute hike up through the woods will lead to an icey traverse to the start of the climbing. Crampon up before you get to the climbing, as there is not much room at the base for adjustment of gear.

Route Description

Really only one pitch for an ice climb, but you can split it in two at mid-length at a reasonable ledge.
P1: Nice 3 or 4m curtain of "thick enough" ice, then rambling 50 to 55 deg for next 20m.

P2: More rambling on progressively more rotten ice. At about 40m the climbing starts. A choice of 3 lines. Far left is a vertical 5m curtain (the best line on the climb), Centre is an icy 5m Dihedral that while less than vertical can offer some cool stemming opportunities, Far Right, if formed is the funky 5m pillar with no gear. All 3 lines end up pulling up and over to a snowy 50 deg exit. As with most Island Ice the exit has very little if any ice to get a tool into so hook the moss and scamper up to a tree belay.

Essential Gear

6 Small screws
1 x 21cm Screws for abalakovs if you're splitting the pitches
I didn't bring rock gear, the rotten parts aren't that steep.
Some cordlette to back-up the tree belay
Regular ice climbing gear

Snowshoes are a pretty good idea as by mid-winter you can't drive to the base of the route and maybe it'll be a 3km hike in!

No avvy hazard so don't bother

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Images

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