Mustang Cracks, 5.10d, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach (Dow leading the 3rd pitch above, 5.10d)

One of the last areas to be developed in Red Rock NCA is the congested lower north faces on Mustang Peak.  Mustang Peak is located directly west of the Monument.  To reach these multi-faceted walls makes for a decent back country hike up burro (2018) laden slopes.  Since Red Rock is mostly a tourist climbing destination, this entire area will never see much human traffic except for a few die hard locals.  There has been recent route development on Mustang wall, many of which have yet to be included in guidebooks as of 2018.  Although the FA date is unknown, the first significant route developed on the main northeast facing wall high on Mustang Peak, overlooking Bonnie Springs, was Mustang Cracks.  Handren included the route in a 2007 version of his local guide.  Mountain Project (MP.Com) published a more accurate version of the climb in 2016.  Where Handren’s brief description labeled Mustang Cracks 5.10b, MP.com labeled it 5.10d.  After leading both crux pitches of the route, I concur with MP’s grading relative to other Red Rock climbing.

There is an approach pitch omitted from Handren’s guide utilized to access Mustang Cracks as he has listed in his 2007 version.  MP.com has all four pitches spelled out and regards this first pitch as 5.6 which I concur.  The second through fourth pitches offer outstanding Red Rock crack climbing experience at the grade on black varnished rock.  The second pitch is more of a splitter with a short wide section than a corner.  The third and fourth pitches follow the high right facing corner above and are the crux of the climb and although MP.com lists the third pitch the crux (5.10d), I led both pitches on the same outing and the fourth pitch is for sure the most technical and sustained of the route.  This is a must do climb for the competent 5.10 trad climber, offering a considerable amount of finger corner climbing, reminiscent of the outstanding Alcohol Wall climbs in First Creek.

Where ever you chose to park, at Black Velvet Canyon’s trail head or improperly at Bonnie Springs (2018), you must make your way to the large alcove below the north face of Mustang Peak.  Mustang Cracks along with other routes in this alcove below Mustang Peak, represent the next climbing area of Red Rock NCA to the northwest of the Monument.  Parking at Black Velvet’s trail head, you circumvent the Monument to the northwest, staying low on the desert floor.  If you keep tracking the north face of Mustang Peak, you end up below Mustang Cracks.  Mustang Cracks is made up of an obvious right facing corner/crack system up an impressive wall rising above the middle of this alcove.  It is located in the middle of the main wall (NE Facing) and its upper right facing corner is large enough to shade itself.   Mustang Cracks is exposed to morning sun for most of the year.  Scramble all the way up through a rocky drainage to the base of the wall and turn left. In short order you are below the obvious right facing corner high up on the face.  The first pitch climbs to an obvious bushy ledge with a slung tree and two fixed raps side by side. 

Route Description

1st Pitch- 135’-5.6/ MP.com has this first pitch at 80’, but in reality it is approximately 50’ taller than that.  On rap from the fixed anchor out right at the top of the pitch, a 70m gets you down to easy down climbing terrain about 20’ off the deck.  To find this easy blocky terrain start, begin directly below the obvious splitter/corner that makes up the rest of this route, fully visible on approach to this wall.  Eventually access the wide easy crack on this lower approach wall and bypass a significant tree at the top of the crack on its right.  Then back left to the base of the obvious splitter above, approximately 20’ to the left of a fixed rap anchor on the same vegetated ledge.

2nd Pitch- 90’-5.9/ Up the obvious corner/splitter.  MP.com mentions the crux is at the start, but the wide middle portion is closer to the grade than any other section, maybe an arm bar or two.  Climb to a fixed station below a thin/closed steep right facing corner.

3rd Pitch- 80’-5.10d/ A great pitch.  Climb up the steep glassy right facing closed corner at the grade whilst reaching for three wire/ micro cam placements in three small openings.  Traverse right on a finger/hand rail and make an exposed move to a shallow left facing corner that turns into easier climbing via a crack above.  It is difficult to protect the traverse but one off-set micro cam placement is available about mid-way across (photo).  Then traverse back left to a fixed anchor in the corner proper below a roof/bend in the corner.  At top, there is a fixed rap out right of the corner at the same level as the fixed anchor in the corner.

4th Pitch- 80’-5.10c/ I led both the third and fourth pitches and the 4th pitch is the crux of the route and sandbagged by Red Rock standards.  Climb up through the dis-jointed corners to enter the right facing corner above.  The first half of this pitch is the crux of the climb.  It is an intermittently open/closed corner.  The pro is awkward (hollow corner=potential finger injuries if you fall) and difficult to place gear (hollow) whilst climbing at the grade.  Eventually you are forced onto the exposed arête with potential injury via a fall back into the main wall.  This pitch could easily be labeled R/PG 13. Continue up the slightly overhanging arête through a runout portion.  The holds get more positive as you near an opportunity to place gear again in the corner.  Reenter the corner and continue to the comfortable fixed rap ledge.  This is a heady, awkward lead.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap through the fixed anchors with a single 70m rope having to scramble down skiers right the final 30’.

Essential Gear

Single to C4#3.  Extra micro cams and wires.  The crack on the 4th pitch is troubling to protect via a hollow crack.  Larger wires are your best bet.  I had a lot of small wires and Rp’s (gear call on MP.com) and would have preferred a good selection of larger nuts instead.  Slings for the traversing nature of the 3rd pitch.  This route stays in the sun until early afternoon during late summer, then goes into the shade well before noon in October.