My wife leading the 4th class...

My wife leading the 4th class...

My wife leading the 4th class terrain near the top of Moscow (Feb. 15, 2004).
rpc
on Feb 26, 2004 11:31 am
Image ID: 43323

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Hammer

Hammer - Feb 26, 2004 1:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Couldn't resist

Radek,



I couldn't resist putting up my two favorite routes at Smith after seeing that you started a Red Wall page. I have used Moscow as a training route for huge multipitch routes on Alpine and down at Red Rocks. Matter of fact it was my first trad lead-oh the memories. I am trying to dig up photos that I will have to Scan in. Thanks for your collection of great pics.



COuple of questions: 1) LEngth of rope you used? 2) Where was your belay at?



-Hammer-

rpc

rpc - Feb 26, 2004 1:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Couldn't resist

Hammer,

Thanks for putting up the routes - great job (very much in line with what I remember of Moscow)! I hope you don't mind that I added in those photos. Feel free to remove any of the ones you don't think belong under "route description section".



We too love those two routes - though I have not done the upper pitches of Super Slab (my wife's led them during a rock course and speaks very highly of the 3rd pitch :). I like Moscow since I think it features a nice mix of "everything" - from dihedral stemming, to liebacking (midway up the upper pitch, short and easy), to some relatively easy off-widthing. And it protects very well AND has clean, solid rock!



We used a 60m rope. We finished the 1st pitch at a boulder/horn with rap slings around it. From there, the second pitch started by going up a steep but short bulge with a finger crack in it - this is where the upper dihedral begins I belive (it's way above the bolts you see atop Peking's finger crack on P1). I'll try to find a photo of the whole route and add in the belay ledge info. on it. I could be wrong, but I think a 50m would've sufficed for the upper pitch as well. We belayed pitch two right above the off-width section - small ledge right before you climb up to the right on 4th class stuff.



By the way, you missed some beer and pizza at the portland SP gathering last night :) Hopefully we'll have another one of those - maybe at the end of the climbing season??

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