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Moscow
Route

Moscow

 
Moscow

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Object Title: Moscow

Route Type: Multi-pitch Trad Route

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.6

Route Quality: 
 - 9 Votes
 

 

Page By: Hammer

Created/Edited: Feb 26, 2004 / Feb 26, 2004

Object ID: 160164

Hits: 3630 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Approach


Easiest approach is from the parking lot and across the bridge. From the bridge you follow the trail directly in front of you up several small switchbacks eventually reaching the base of the wall. From here it is easiest to follow the mid slope trail towards Misery Ridge rather than following along the base of the wall. You avoid the ups and downs.

NOTE: This area is commonly closed due to nesting Eagles. Please follow notices set by the Rangers.

Route Description


Moscow is easy to find from the trail leading to Misery ridge due to it only being off of the trail several feet. It is found right before the wall ends and the trail begins to ascend up Misery Ridge. Moscow┬┤s start is set back in the recess on the left side. To the right are several new bolted routes that follow small natural pockets. Right at the base of the route is a medium sized block that serves as a seat to put your shoes on.

Pitch 1: (5.6) Start up a steep section that requires some strength but has many large holds to rely on. Make your way up to where a block seems to be blocking the path. Move left for continued 5.6 or right for slightly more difficult climbing (5.7). Stay left in the gully eventually reaching a ledge.

Pitch 2: (5.6) From the belay ledge move right and follow a fist-sized crack up a dihedral. You may have to stem and use holds on the face as the crack becomes off-width. Continue to another belay ledge. NOTE: This belay ledge is a standard pitch away-don't be confused by a smaller ledge about mid-pitch or your 3rd pitch will run short.

Pitch 3: (5.6) From the belay ledge continue up right following the lower angle crack. Use of the face holds to the climbers left are advisable. Continue to a belay stance that is above the last of the difficulties (There is brush and debris) and a hard right from the crack system. You ascend some blocky material directly below the belay.

Pitch 4: (4th Class) From the belay area, ascend up and to the right across some dirty areas. Follow the base of the wall to the right until it drops off to oblivion. The pitch follows a large crack/boulder move of only about 9 feet to the top.

Descent: Top out and follow the Misery Ridge Trail back down.

Essential Gear


A couple of large cams makes the 3rd pitch easy to protect however, you have to drag them along the lower pitches. I suggest large passive pro with a few medium cams and one large cam, in addition to a set of nuts/hexes of varying sizes.

Quickdraws just don't work well for this route. Use runners (at least 12") due to the rope drag.

I would suggest a 60m+ rope to ensure enough for the 3rd pitch.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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