N Face, Scandinavian Direct (1996)

Approach

If your acclimatization is good I suggest that you camp first day higher up from Q. Ishinca, by the new wooden cabin (4.800) a bit higher than Ishinca Lake, on the way to the Ishinca SW Ridge Route. 1-2h from Base Camp. From there Ranrapalca´s North Face is huge and breathtaking; to the left of it is Ishinca and right in between them, the col to where to go if the NE ridge or the NE slopes are our routes, it will make a good spot to set our Camp 1in that case. If the North Face is our aim, we will set Camp 1 by the glacier right by the North Face but not too close to prevent rock falling.

The Route

Route Description

The route starts to the right of the central couloir of the N.Face. We would have to cross over the rock band on our right, and ascend the snow cone for about 150m. Traverse right under the serac over rock, mixed, ice an snow to head again up in order to climb between the 3rd. and the 4rth. group of rocks in the middle of the face, before arriving to that point we will have to go across the bergschround. From the rock group head up a little left just to leave another rock group right by our left. Keeping on that line we would be getting closer to the N spur to meet with it right at the very top of the face. A short rock section and a gentle snow slope will leave us in the summit plateu. Looking south opposite to us the knife edged summit crowning the summit plateu.

Topo

Descent

Descent via NE slopes, I suggest to abseil the first part. Some years it is hard to find the way through the bergschround of NE slopes, make sure to be there by daylight.

Essential Gear

Two Ice Axes, Helmet, two 60 metres ropes, snow-stakes (abseiling), a few ice-srews, pitons, friens and nuts. Helmet

Information

All info gathered by:
Jonás Cruces
Mountain Guide & Rock + Ice Climbing Instructor
This is his website: www.todovertical.com

Images

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