Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
46.32898°N / 9.63584°E |
Route Type:
|
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing |
|
Time Required:
|
Most of a day |
|
Difficulty:
|
UIAA III to IV+ (5.3 - 5.7) |
|
Approach
From the western end of the Albigna Dam, reached either from the Albigna Hut or from the cable car station, follow the trail that keeps to the right towards Val della Neve Pass. Skirt just under the final slope to the pass and continue south, below Roda. If climbing La Vergine, follow the track to the gap between Roda and La Vergine. Otherwise continue until below the connection between La Vergine and Il Gallo, crossing over a moraine and perhaps a snowfield, then over large blocks to a vague ridge base. About 1.75 to 2 hours from the Albigna Hut, 1 to 1.5 hours from the dam.Route Description
La VergineFollow the ridge crest or divert into the east face as desired. IV to IV+. Down climb the south ridge to gain the blocks in the gap at the base of Il Gallo. About 1 to 1.5 hours.
Il Gallo
Move west over blocks to a ledge that leads to the foot of a wall on the east side of the ridge. Climb a short blocky wall to a narrow ledge. You can also traverse west around and climb the smooth, exposed wall by a finger crack that leads up to the chimney mentioned below.
Follow the ledge east for a rope length, then return west and climb easy rock to the foot of a slanting slab bounded by a chimney/crack. Either climb this crack or the wall directly.
Now traverse west to a large ledge. From the ledge, climb to west to a stance on the vertical south wall of the summit block. Ascend the summit block by a lieback, with your hands on the wall edge.
About 1 to 1.5 hours.
Descent
Either reverse the ascent route by down climbing or rappelling or it is also common to rappel the South ridge (overhanging, free rappel at the start).