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Normal route - East ridge

 
Normal route - East ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Italy/Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.50000°N / 13.60000°E

Object Title: Normal route - East ridge

Route Type: Scramble, UIAA II

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Walk-up and easy climbing

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Oct 9, 2004 / Oct 9, 2004

Object ID: 162442

Hits: 1914 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


You ascend a Prevala pass, 2067m over one of this possibilities:

1. From south side, from Slovenia. From the upper station (2200m) of cable-car from Bovec you start walking on the marked route to the Notch below Prestreljnik, 2282m. Then you descend to the Prevala pass, 2067m.

2. From Sella Nevea (1195m), from north side,from Italia. To Rif. Gilberti (1850m) you can hike by a marked path (over ski slopes) or take a cable car. From the hut you proceed towards east, first some 100m down in the valley, then up to Prevala Pass, 2067m. From Sella Nevea 4h, from Rif. Gilberti 2h 30min. This is also a very fine ski tour with 1300m altitude difference, where also the cable car to Rif. Gilberti can be used.

3. Prevala Pass can also be reached from Bovec (in Soca valley) or by one of paths crossing Kanin massif east of it. Very popular is ascend over by a nice marked route after Krnica valley which falls directly from Prevala pass in direction to the east.


Route Description


When you reach the Prevala pass you start walking by a marked route which has number 636 and leads to the north slopes of Lopa. You follow that route to the point called Prevalski Kuntar on the altitude around 2150m. Then you cross the north slopes of Lopa. Be careful on that: You mustn`t scramble on first notch which is on the right side of Lopa because you will come on west ridge and this ridge is a little bit more harder. (I climbed on Lopa here because I didn`t know where the normal route goes up. Then I descended by a normal route.)

So when you come (after the crossing) on the start of Lopa`s east ridge you climbed on notch between Lopa and ridge which continues to the Hudi Vrsic. From here you climb to the top after the easiest crossings which are not harder of UIAA I-II.

You descend by the same route.

Essential Gear


Good hiking shoes, helmet, rope.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

A view down to the Italian...