Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.20000°N / 14.00000°E |
Route Type:
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Scramble, UIAA II-III |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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Walk-up and climbing |
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Approach
From Kranjska Gora you drive to the start of Krnica valley.
Starting point of the route is Koca v Krnici hut (1113m), which lies in Krnica valley. The valley is beautiful, with stunning scenery. All around are some of the highest peaks of Julian Alps that fall into the valley with huge walls: Skrlatica (2740m), Rakova Spica (2545m), Razor (2601m) and Prisojnik (2547m). Krnica ends with probably most beautiful amphitheater in Julian Alps – Kriska Stena.
Route Description
You follow the signposts for a marked route on Spik over Lipnica and walk on this route to the altitude around 1400m where the marked route on Spik turns left but you continue directly in the big ravine which falls from Spikova notch, 2181m. When you come to gable of ravine you will see a hunting route on the right side of the ravine which leads you through the dwarf pine to the big screes below the north face of Skrlatica. On the start of the ridge of Velika Ponca you will see a small Bivouac I where you can sleep.
Then you continue in to the big basin which leads in wild world and it is encircled with Skrlatica, Veliki Rokav, Veliki Oltar and Velika Ponca.
Soon you come to point where you must turn left on the SE slopes of Velika Ponca. If you continue you will come on the notch between Velika Ponca and Veliki Oltar. On that notch comes from N side a route over Kacji jezik (Snake's tongue).
You start climbing on the small wall in the middle of SE slopes of Velika Ponca. The difficulty is not harder of UIAA III. When you climb this place you come to the very spacious summit of Velika Ponca.
You descend by the same route.
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Essential Gear
Good hiking shoes , helmet and rope.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Vid Pogachnik - Oct 5, 2004 11:21 am - Voted 8/10
Route CommentBor, I think it's worth mentioning some more details of this route. If you wish, simply insert them:
...Soon you come to point, where you must turn left...
First you scramble a steep rocky part, climbing allways towards the summit of Velika Ponca. A little higher it's easier to move more on the right side of slopes, so you reach a rather flat ridge, leading into the final rock barrier. Till here, climbing is easy (not exceeding UIAA I).
From the shoulder you enter final rocks by a distinct path over a scree section (becatuse allmost everyone goes there). So you reach a steep ravine, which soon closes. The exit is towards right, over a few meters high wall, where climbing is the hardest (UIAA II - (is it really III, I guess not?)). Above the wall we turn again up, climbinge becomes easier and soon we reach the flat summit plateau.