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Normal Route
Route

Normal Route

 
Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Dolomiti, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43330°N / 11.85000°E

Object Title: Normal Route

Route Type: Glacier Climb/ Basic Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD

Route Quality: 
 - 19 Votes
 

 

Page By: Corvus

Created/Edited: Aug 16, 2001 / Dec 13, 2005

Object ID: 155660

Hits: 8433 

Page Score: 81.67%  - 14 Votes 

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Approach


A good point to start for climbing/hiking on marmolada is Fedaia Pass (2054 meters), situated between Canazei and Malga Ciapela (the start point of Punta Rocca cabla car). On the pass is situated a very nice lake.
  • From ora/AUer (exit Brennero highway) through Predazzo, Moena, Vigo di Fassa, Pozza di Fassa, Campitello di Fassa, Canazei by SS48, 77 km.

  • From Cortina d'Ampezzo through Arabba and Passo Pordoi by SR48 (50 km) or through Giau Pass and Selva di Cadore.

  • From Belluno through Agordo and Alleghe SP563, 83 km




Route Description


At the start of the glacier at the top of the rifugio take a loop to the left side to avoid crevasses in about 2 hours nearly to the end of the glacier. Leave the glacier at the rope (you can't miss it). Then climb up the rocks (100 vertical meters, PD) up to the ridge. Then via the snow ridge to the summit cross in another 15 min. Have a hot tea in the summit hut.




Essential Gear


Crampons, ice axe, rope.


Forum about the route ropes


No steel ropes in the rock section.
Author: Vid Pogachnik
Date: Aug 06, 2004 08:33 AM

In one of my books it says that on those 100 m of rock the route is protected by steel ropes. This is no more the truth. There are some pegs left. Climbing (and descending) is not hard - UIAA I-II, or PD), but the rope could be useful (you need it anyway for the glacier). Because there are usually many climbers, the danger of falling stones is considerable. Also you should consider many minutes of waiting because of dense traffic. On the glacier itself recently some new crevasses opened. Not so long ago a guy fell in and after some time he was found pretty bluish - and alive.

Author: dmiki
Date: Sept 04, 2005 11:43 AM

There are again steel ropes to use from the glacier to the snow ridge at the top.

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