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normal route

 
normal route

Page Type: Route

Location: Trentino (Brenta Group), Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.15580°N / 10.87220°E

Object Title: normal route

Route Type: hike, glacier and easy scramble

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: UIAA II

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Mathias Zehring

Created/Edited: Mar 5, 2002 / Dec 23, 2003

Object ID: 156254

Hits: 2983 

Page Score: 77.28%  - 8 Votes 

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Approach


getting to Rifugio Pedrotti Tosa, see main page

Follow marked route Nr. 304 ("Sentiero Brentari") and pass the last flowers to the basin full of rubble east of Cima Tosa. Ascending there is a bit exhausting. There is not much left of the glacier "Vedretta di Tosa" so you do not nead glacier gear. Where Sentiero Brentari leads to the left, turn right to the beginning of the rocks where the wall is least high.

You can also get there from the Rifugio Agostini = rifugio Val d'Ambiez via the left branch of Sentiero Brentari. First climb over the glacier "Vedretta d'Ambienz, then a via ferrata and the descend to the beginning of the walls of Cima Tosa.

Route Description


Most difficult part is at the very beginning: an almost upright stair of rock, right side of a chimney, mostly wet, slippery as being touched by thousands of climbers in the past. It is only rated UIAA II, but exposed enough for normal climbers as me that a rope is necessary (at least for getting down again). After that the climb is easy, you just have to follow the cairns. On top there has remained a little glacier, so the last meters are a nice walk on a snowy ridge.
3 h from Rifugio Pedrotti Tosa

For the descent abseiling over the steep step is recommended.

Essential Gear


Helmet, Rope, perhaps a nut

personal experience


by HeMa:

Easily done in around 8 to 10 hours from Rifugio Valsinella, as a punter like me could do the route in 8 and a half hours. To make things clear at the moment I'm not at all in shape, and prior to the climb I had just flown a day earlier to Milano from Helsinki (height 10 m above sea level) and slept the night at Madonna di Campiglio (~1500 m).

Although I did climb solo without the a rope so an ascent for a roped team migth take a bit longer (next time I would also use a rope for abseiling the steep section).

As for the steep section, it's about 15 m high and really quite easy. For me the easiest way up was first on the right side of the chimney, then a little higher in the chimney followed by a short traverse to climbers right to a series of ledges.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Cima TosaCima Tosa - normal routeCima Tosa - normal routeCima Tosa - normal routeabseiling over the steepest...south east side of Cima Tosa....summit ridge of Cima Tosa...
less steep ascent at the...